new 360

[stroker mike]

I made a decision, and now I am stoked to be the owner of a '75 360, never been bored, 68000 miles. 596 heads, so I have to plug the air injection holes, but they will flow by the time I'm done with them. They still have blue paint overspray on the valve springs! No carbon build up at all. I got 2 iron intake manifolds, one w/egr, one w/out, 4 barrel. everything!! My 600 holley will be too little for this thing that's for sure. anyway, now it's time to shop for a stroker kit, can any one tell me who will give me the most for my money? :happy4:

 

[lead69]

I would try Ohio crankshaft,nice products and they machine in house.I had the stuff checked over and its right on and their price on a rotating assembly zero balanced,h-beams (floater) with upgraded k.b. forged pistons-including rings and bearings was only 1,250.00-I think its hard to beat.

 

[rumblefish360]

The iron intakes and the 600 will not be enuff for a stroker. A mild 360 would be just fine.

 

[stroker mike]

If the assembly is zero balanced does that mean I don't have to use the dampr and flexplate w/ weights on the torque converter??

 

[moper]

If there's blue paint on the springs, somebody's been in it... ;)

I find it cheapest to peice together my small block stroker stuff. But, Flatlanderracing.com has some stuff in kits too. For a mild build (meaning 5500rpm redline, 425hp max), stock rods, hyper pistons, and the cheapest crank you can find (Scat was, but was a new # not in warehouses yet) will be fine.

 

[rumblefish360]

Zero balance or any other listed on the kit or part means very little to you the end user and the parts should be taken to the machinest for balanceing.

 

[stroker mike]

That makes sense, rumblefish. I found a good one not far from me. I also found outthat the shallow dish pistons are for the larger chambers, and as the years have gone by, when the chambers get smaller, the dish gets bigger. So, I can raise my compression by finding some 68cc heads, by my math that would give me a 9.2:1. then I don't have to mill them any more than to make 'em straight. And I can still use stock pushrods. I hope. But I will check! I heard that la rockers are the same as 440 rockers but w/out the spacers. Is that true? Cause I can get crane 440 rollers on craigsllist cheap right now, just thought I'd check it out! Oh, yeah, I got the code off the block, it is 4006830-360-5. Can anyone interpret this for me? Thanks!!

 

[rumblefish360]

Mike;

shallow dish pistons are for the larger chambers, and as the years have gone by, when the chambers get smaller, the dish gets bigger.

I believe this is more of a factory thing. Combining different cc heads with diferent cc dished pistons to aquire the desired comp. ratio is what it is all about.
Also the purchase of new pistons and where they'll sit in the hole combined with the head cc amount. Stock head or other.

The problem is finding 68cc heads ...exact. The closest factory heads I can think of would be Magnums. Reguardless.

The use of stock pushrods can be possible so long as you understand there "Pushed" into the lifter at a predetrermined amount. The approx. depth of the depressing is .050. So If you mill the head .030, your left with .020 worth of play. It would be wiser to get pushrods the like amount milled shorter. It's an easy pick up/order.
(Also take into account the gasket thickness in the pushrod length and compression ratio.)

If 440 (Big block in general) were the same as small blocks, would they not have the same part number? But they do not do they?

Indy cyl. heads uses 440 rockers on there small block heads for geomentry reasons. There must be a change in the rockers then right?

If you want to upgrade your rockers, a basic upgrade is the HD stamp MoPar rockers @ approx. $80. Then theres rockers from Comp Cams, Crane, Harland Sharp and others that are adjustable. They require a cup instead of ball end for use.

(I do not have a code book handy for the block numbers.)