DusterJohn
Member
Hi I need some help I have no clue what's going on I bought a new battery new alternator and a new voltage regulator, and my cars still not charging all the wires are going where they should be but still negative somebody help!
New battery alternator and voltage regulator still not charging!
- Thread starter DusterJohn
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
"New" (in this case "new" means some party you had lying around, an actual new part, or a rebuilt part from the store) does NOT mean "functioning.
So let's run some simple tests
I tend to "divide up" the charging system into "sections:"
1....The field circuit, meaning the entire wiring from the battery through the firewall, through the ignition switch, back out the firewall and supplying the regulator, as well as the regulator wire going back to the alternator, AND the field 12V supply wire to the alternator
2....The charging wire, meaning the entire circuit from the alternator, through the bulkhead, through the ammeter, back out the bulkhead, and back to the battery
3...The major parts, meaning the alternator and the regulator "defective"
===========================================
What you need to troubleshoot your vehicle "in general"
A 12V test lamp
Some alligator 'clip' leads
A multimeter
=========================================
Start by turning the ignition switch "to run" engine off. Everything hooked up "normal"
Find the BLUE wire attached to one of the field terminals of the alternator. If you cannot reach it, switch the connectors between the green and blue. With it all connected, measure "at the blue" with your multimeter. You should read the same as the battery.
Set the meter at LOW voltage DC. Stab one probe into the top of the battery NEG post. Stab the other probe into the mounting flange of the VR. IT should read ZERO or very close. The VR MUST be securely grounded.
=================================
If this is OK, start the engine. Monitor battery voltage and bring up engine RPM. Voltage should increase above 13V, nominally 14
If not, move your meter down to the alternator output stud. What is the volage doing there? stays down around 11.x---12X? Or does it go "way high" perhaps way above 16---18V? If low, it's not charging. If high, you have a BREAK in the circuit from the alternator to the battery
============================
If the above reading was low, pull the GREEN wire off at the alternator. Clip one of your alligator leads to the alternator field terminal you just now exposed. GROUND the other end. The alternator should "load" down and "whine." Battery voltage should climb up. This shows the alternator is OK and that there is something wrong in the REGULATOR circuit
Post back results and we'll move onwards
So let's run some simple tests
I tend to "divide up" the charging system into "sections:"
1....The field circuit, meaning the entire wiring from the battery through the firewall, through the ignition switch, back out the firewall and supplying the regulator, as well as the regulator wire going back to the alternator, AND the field 12V supply wire to the alternator
2....The charging wire, meaning the entire circuit from the alternator, through the bulkhead, through the ammeter, back out the bulkhead, and back to the battery
3...The major parts, meaning the alternator and the regulator "defective"
===========================================
What you need to troubleshoot your vehicle "in general"
A 12V test lamp
Some alligator 'clip' leads
A multimeter
=========================================
Start by turning the ignition switch "to run" engine off. Everything hooked up "normal"
Find the BLUE wire attached to one of the field terminals of the alternator. If you cannot reach it, switch the connectors between the green and blue. With it all connected, measure "at the blue" with your multimeter. You should read the same as the battery.
Set the meter at LOW voltage DC. Stab one probe into the top of the battery NEG post. Stab the other probe into the mounting flange of the VR. IT should read ZERO or very close. The VR MUST be securely grounded.
=================================
If this is OK, start the engine. Monitor battery voltage and bring up engine RPM. Voltage should increase above 13V, nominally 14
If not, move your meter down to the alternator output stud. What is the volage doing there? stays down around 11.x---12X? Or does it go "way high" perhaps way above 16---18V? If low, it's not charging. If high, you have a BREAK in the circuit from the alternator to the battery
============================
If the above reading was low, pull the GREEN wire off at the alternator. Clip one of your alligator leads to the alternator field terminal you just now exposed. GROUND the other end. The alternator should "load" down and "whine." Battery voltage should climb up. This shows the alternator is OK and that there is something wrong in the REGULATOR circuit
Post back results and we'll move onwards
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