New Dynomax VT Exhaust

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qkcuda

qkcuda

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I picked up a used set of 1 3/4 tti headers to replace my old 1 3/4 headman b body headers. I also bought a 2 1/2 inch tti H pipe to replace my home built exhaust pipes and new tti 2 1/2 inch tailpipes to replace the factory 2 1/4 inch (2 inch at the tips) tailpipes. I was using Dynomax super turbo mufflers, but I found them a little loud at cruise. I did a lot of research on mufflers, and with the help of VOETOM, I decided to try the Dynomax VT mufflers. The system is installed now and I have had a chance to put some miles on it. It is exactly what I was after. It is very quiet cruising at 50-60 mph, in fact I hear more mechanical noise from the engine than I do exhaust. When you do put your foot into it the sound is more mellow than the super turbos. I am extremely happy with the change over. Unfortunately Tom told me that Dynomax has discontinued these mufflers.

TTi headers.JPG


TTi exhaust.JPG


tti tips.jpg
 
While I was changing the exhaust system I decided to install a new Wideband A/F ratio gauge I had bought a while ago. It is now in and operating, and I can see I need to do some carb tuning. It is way rich all the time.

Wideband.jpg
 
AF gauge! Thumbs way up!I wonder why Dino Max discontinued the muffler?
 
Here is the icing on the cake. I went to the Mopar day at Cayuga and ran the car on Sunday. We had a pretty serious tail wind, exactly the same conditions as when I posted my previous best time of 11.53. That day the car ran about 117 mph all day with a best of 118.59. On Sunday even though I had traction issues all day, and only ran a best of 11.75, the car ran 118.32, 118.92 and 119.5 mph. I figure I picked up a solid 1 to 1.5 mph with the new system. Keep in mind the headers and exhaust system were the same pipe diameters as before. The secret to the VT mufflers is the valve that stays mostly closed during cruise and opens when you get into it. I always race through full exhaust, so this is the best of both worlds for me.

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I did the Summit Racing Part Number:WLK-17963 Dynomax VT on my Ram everyday driver. On 3rd year now and the internals I was skeptical of are still working just fine. The shell is rusting but is still appears to be solid.
DynoVT.jpg
 
I've read hit and miss issues with failures and rattles. Some work flawlessly and some not so good. Hopefully you got some good ones.
 
When I connected them directly to the headers to test them there was some clanging of the valves at idle. I have a pretty healthy hydraulic roller cam with 236/242 duration, so the idle is choppy. Once I got the whole system installed with the H pipe, I do not hear any clanging or rattling at all. Can't say about longevity yet, but Daves69 seems to have had good luck on a daily driver. Given that, and with the amount mine gets driven, they should last a long time
 
They use 409 st. st. for the shell (I am pretty sure) and it will cosmetically rust but not totally go away; they should last a long time, externally and internally.
 
I looked into a set of these as well, but by the time I pulled the trigger they were discontinued. I went with the Ultra Flows instead and really enjoy them. I would have liked to get a VT for my Ram though, it's too quiet with the stock exhaust.
 
Installed my new MT drag radials on Saturday. Now I just have to find some time to get back to the track and do some more testing.

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I bought them used and the previous owner obviously had a problem with pitman arm clearance.
 
As did I on the '67 Cuda.
Top of manual steering box as well. Rear bolt head interference. Shimmed the engine up a bit and ground the bolts head down.
 
This is why I didn't spend $$$ on TTI, since they seem to require about the same BFH treatment as the Hedman B-body headers...
 
My TTi's cleared everywhere else by a ton. All the places where the Hedmans were tight, the TTi's cleared with room to spare. There would have been no need to clearance the pitman arm on my car. His car was a 67 as well, so I wonder if it is because of the different idler arm setup?

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tti 2.jpg
 
DrCharles said:
This is why I didn't spend $$$ on TTI, since they seem to require about the same BFH treatment as the Hedman B-body headers...
Click to expand...
For which block series?
I used the B bodies headers in a Duster w/a 400 low deck. Huge pain, many dents to be done.

Will NOT be doing that again!
Huge mistake!
 
That's what I have (low-deck, '72 Dart, 78030 B-body). Since I shortened the column back to the firewall (and used a Flaming River coupler), even with the Lakewood bellhousing I only made a few dents and none of them huge. I did trim part of one "scallop" from the Lakewood on the right side.

If I hadn't cheaped out on the mini-starter I could have eliminated that dent too.
I didn't consider it a problem at all, but I sure would have bitched about denting an $800 pair of headers instead of a $100 pair.
YMMV :)
 
I had my stock starter did and I just took a electric saw to get the starter out.
 
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