New M/C or rebuid

-
I say new or rebuilt cylinder. When you rebuild 'em yourself, those kits are not cheap, and if it fails, you just bought a kit and you "own both halves."

At least the new/ rebuilt cylinders have some sort of warrantee
 
if your original is a single pot master you really should change it to a double reservoir master for safety.
 
When I checked Rockauto for my 65 Dart a few years ago, a manual master cylinder (single reservoir) was only $9 (closeout). That was cheaper than a rebuild kit.

I didn't get it since I decided to put in a used power master cylinder from a late-model Mopar (Breeze, dual reservoir), for safety and disk brakes later.
 
When I checked Rockauto for my 65 Dart a few years ago, a manual master cylinder (single reservoir) was only $9 (closeout). That was cheaper than a rebuild kit.

I didn't get it since I decided to put in a used power master cylinder from a late-model Mopar (Breeze, dual reservoir), for safety and disk brakes later.
I want to put in a dual resevoir Master Cylinder in my 63 Dart. Would a plymouth Breeze work for me?
 
I would think 63 is the same as my 65. I used the Breeze master cylinder and vacuum booster. For that, the critical part you need is "stand-off brackets", from all A-bodies w/ power brakes. Make sure it includes the lever arm w/ brake rod to your pedal. I got the brackets off a 73 Dart. I had to rat-tail file the holes a bit because the 4 hole mount of the booster is a slightly different metric pattern.

I haven't driven the car yet, just bleed in the lines, so can't claim my approach works. My pedal has too much "lost motion" but maybe just in the shoe motion. After the new shoes seat and adjusters kick in it should improve, or maybe I need to adjust the booster to MC rod. I put the MC on an identical-looking booster from an Intrepid because the later was already mounted when I found it's longer MC and slanted reservoir wouldn't work. A booster adds weight and size, plus you have to lift it to remove a V-8 valve cover. I also have an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear because I want to change to front disks later, which is why I needed a booster.

If you stay all drums, you can skip the booster. You then must mount a modern 2-hole master cylinder to the older 4-studs at the firewall. Mopar Performance makes an adapter plate, but ~$70 which is more than my junkyard solution, though a whole lot easier. You can also buy the MP master cylinder, but it looks the same as on most current cars. Ideally, you should compare MC piston diameters. Smaller gives you more force, but also more pedal motion (don't bottom out!). I didn't do any engineering. I just figured that my Dart weighs about the same as a Breeze it should work. I'll know soon.
 
I went with the late model unit that requires the adapter bracket, it works great but keep in mind it doesn't look original at all.
 
so i bought a 68 m/c from rock auto. I wanted to stay safe with a double resevoir. I forgot to buy another break line though. Maybe I should buy a new proportioning valve too while im at it.
 
would i be able to get a proportioning valve from the junk yard off a new vehicle? dont i need a drum/drum distribution block, or proportioning valve
 
-
Back
Top