new motor blues

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mr.318

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i had i post awhile back my new engine wiped cam lobe a 318 40.over zerodecked kb167 pistons areoheads 202 valves anyway cleaned her up another new pump just in case put my cranecam 454 lift matching lifters + added adjustable rockers i was worried bout all the millwork took the 750 carb off put new holley 600 on now it's not hitting on #6 runs the same with plug wire on are off u can hear it out the pipe on that side i call it a flat sound i've changed the plug + wire no help put the old plug on the wire put close to ground cranked it up firing good clyinder still dead pulled all plugs did compres..test all clys.170 pounds but #5 166 pounds means all my valves are ok right?#5 is the cyl. that cam lobe was wiped out i've checked the firing order replaced the cap rotor wires plugs checked the valve adjustment more than once checked timing i'm confused need help newmopar dist. to
 
yea done that they all move up+down i rechecked all the pushrods to none bent i adjusted the valves to zero lash triple checked em i even put my stock rockers on it just to see no change idon't won't to tear it down again i was thinking valve but after the compression test i don't know if thats it
 
well i took the rockers back off tonight and took a magnet and pulled the lifters out of #6 they look good no wear on the bottom first time i ever pulled lifters with intake on it works took the plug back out still shiny looks new on the tip but looks wet down in the plug ? only got 50 miles on engine haven't seen any smoke still full of oil but already changed it 3 times never seen just the inside of aplug wet always tip to ? hate to but guess i"ll pull the head off and have it checked be my 3rd set of gaskets anybody else had trouble with areoheads i see theres alot of bad feedback on them on the moparstyle link i just figured indyclyheads owns areoheads they have a good rep.never know about opions
 
I'm no fan of Aerohead, but at 166psi, it should be firing fine. The fact it's lower may mean the rigns are just soaked with raw fuel. Not a good situation, but not terminal. I would replace the plug with a new one, and verify your firing order is right. I've reversed #5 and 7 before and sometimes it will run fine but skip, sometimes it ends up wioth a dead hole. In most cases, once a plug has been wet fouled, it's hard to get it to fire again without pulling it and hitting it with brake or carb clean to remove the fuel deposits. You also may want to check what cylinder the vaccum nipple is in. If it's 5 or 7, you may want to block it with a plug until you get it running right, then put the hose back on. If it runs good without it, then runs like crud with it, you may have a leaking power booster or vaccum leak. That would effect only one cylinder...That's assuming you have power brakes too...
 
You may have a bad (leaky) intake manifold gasket. That would suck in air and oil from the intake valley.
 
i sprayed a soulition of water and det. all around the intake carbbase ect. found no leaks put new plug in checked firing order 10 tmes at least
 
Ok with the engine at idle, place your timing light on each spark plug wire. if you find one which does not make the light flash, there is an ignition related reason like a bad wire, carbon tracked cap etc. If all 8 plugs cause the light to flash, there is some other reason why the cylinder isnt hitting. Th check for an internal vacuum leak, place your hand over the oil breather (not PCV ) so the crankcase builds a vacuum. You will feel the vacuum build. If the engine smoothes out, you have an internal vacuum leak, caused by a bad intake gasket, damaged or cracked manifold, etc. With 166-170 psi cranking compression, you have good valve and ring seal. Should be no need to pull heads off for years to come.
 
i've already changed the wires cap rotor ballest resitor had msd wires got new moroso 8mm wires i've even changed #6 wire with another cyl the other one fires but#6 still won't the only thing i haven't changed is coil and orange i've runed it in the dark don't see any fire jumping i'll check the vacume trick tomrrow but with my compression check your saying the valves + rings should be okay how bout headgasket? an enginebulder said to spray the headgaskets with hightemp copper permatex i did but now nobody elese i know has heard of this
 
Not likely to be a coil or control box if the problem is local to a single cylinder. Since you have good compression I seriously doubt the head gasket is leaking. The ONLY exception to the above would be a water leak into the cylinder. This will cause a lot of steam out the tailpipe, stopping almost instantly if the radiator cap is removed. Generally the cylinder will still fire with this problem, unless the leak is severe.

Use a timing light to verify all spark plugs are firing. If you have spark, and you have compression, it must be a fuel issue. You can rule out the carb since the problem is local to one cylinder. At this point I would suspect a vacuum leak local to that cylinder. An intake gasket leaking to the lifter valley or severely cracked intake or loose valve guide would be about the only thing I can think of which would cause that.

Copper spray adhesive is generally only used on metal faced head gaskets. If you used a composition gasket, especially a Fel-Pro blue, it is not needed.
 
You tested the #6 wire with an ohm meter too? And did the timing light test like C130 said on that hole? 160psi should fire. There is another thought tho...Pull the RH valve cover. Perhaps the intake pushrod bent or fell out or punched thru a rocker...That would still read good compression, but no fuel/air could enter.
 
I didn't see where you changed the plug in number 6. You may have a dead plug. just because it's a new plug doesn't mean it's good. From what you have described it sounds like an ignition problem
 
thanks 4 all the replies i hadn't got a chance 2 check anything got bit by an spider swelled my whole arm up done been 2 the doc twice 4 hunded bucks that i could have spent on the swinger anyway i'll post back if and when iget it fixed
 
alright i got to tinker with it today i pluged all the vacume hoses off even pvc i don't have powerbrakes seems to be firing on #6 that way but surges so i hook the hoses backup #6 not hitting again but still surges? so do ya think blowed intake gasket or cracked intake? also on vacume gage goes from 10 to 13 pounds with hoses connected but 15-17 disconnected and ajusting carb don't do nothing if u turn it all the way in it will die other than that makes no difference? i always ajust carb to highest vacume it's a new carb :sad1:
 
Do your have any vacuum fittings right above the #6 intake runner. If so, it may be bad or the hose going to that fitting may be bad.

Jack
 
I'd pull the valve cover and take a peak a tthat right bank. You'll have to to remove the intake anyway...
 
Youve got a vacuum leak. Find it and your troubles will be solved. When you jump 2-3 inches by plugging off the lines you are loosing too much vacuum. Once found retune the car and it should be fine. Re attach the vacuum lines one at a time until you see the vacuum drop again ... ta da you found it.
 
well i only got 2 vacume hoses pvcvavle vacumeadvance put new hoses on today + clamps pvc still don't sound right idling but runs good driving it pulls strong but vavles ping backed timing down still ping pluged vacumeadavance hoses no ping guess i need to adjust advance clockwise or counterclockwise? the carb still won't adjust out like i said if i turn all the way in it dies other than that don't make a difference where u turn em i use a vacume gage to adjust carb it's new but itryed abuddys carb off his running car dose the same think what gives ? gotta love it
 
what is the timing at? all small blocks advance their timing by turning distributor counterclockwise(against firing order). it may ping top end because your total centrifigal advance is coming in too fast or the curve is too wide. for now, tune it without the vac advance hooked up. change the plug(s) as needed. set the carb at about 2 turns out. what kind of carb? is your vac advance on a timed port or on a constant port?
 
i had the timing @34degrees@3000 thousand rpm the carb is holley 600cfm what i was talking about is whichway to turn the vacume advance on the dist.so the timing won't advance so soon it's a moparperforemance dist. i can't find my instrs. it told how to do it i seen it on here but did a search can't find it now
 
Do you have vacumm lines coming off your intake that go to your heater box inside the car? If so, you might have a leak there.
 
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