New Project: ‘64 Valiant Wagon

[ScamperTom]

I went and saw this car last year but I just didn’t have the time to get it. I couldn’t forget it though, so today my brothers and i dragged it home. A little rustier, but otherwise just as I remember!

 

[Woody'sScamp]

God, I love those old Valiant Wagons! As a real young kid, I remember just being able to reach that roll down back window. What's your plans for it?

 

[petty437]

SWEET! Love wagons!

 

[oldmodlover]

Nice ! I have a '63.

 

[ScamperTom]

The car was last registered in 1990. It's been sitting in a garage since then. Most of the roof collapsed 5 or 10 years ago and leaves collected on the roof, rusting it through in the middle. If only someone had taken care of it ten years ago it would have been in great shape...

I haven't been able check underneath yet but it was on a concrete floor so hopefully it's not too bad. The floorpan is pretty bad, at least in the front, so that may lead to problems with the frame. The back doesn't look half bad though.

If the rust is too extensive underneath, I guess I'll have to part it out; but I'd rather try to save it, if I can. I'm definitely NOT going to paint it: that perfect blend of rust and original paint is hard to come by in this area.

 

[Keith Mopar]

Subscribed to this build, love the early A wagons. Nice to see picking up this wagon is a family affair.
Post lots of pics for us to see.

 

[Divenut]

Love it! What are your plans for the build?

Pat

 

[halifaxhops]

Nice save it!

 

[ScamperTom]

Anyone know what this is? The rear ujoint is normal. I know the imperial models had vibration damping ujoints, but I didn’t realize this was an option on v100 Plymouths.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Ball and trunnion; 3-pot coupler
It allows for fore and aft motion as the rear suspension goes up and down

 

[ScamperTom]

Ball and trunnion; 3-pot coupler
It allows for fore and aft motion as the rear suspension goes up and down

So this is a pre-slip yoke design?

i take it if i switch trans I’ll have to change the driveshaft as well then.

 

[AJ/FormS]

The later transmissions have many upgrades, and got stronger over the years.
If you upgrade to an engine with a 67 up crank, it will have a different convertor support hole, and needs a bushing to use the 66 and older convertors. Not a big deal except
I have heard that finding a small-nose performance convertor is getting harder; usually neccessating a custom build.
In the long run, IMO, I think it would be best to swap the trans out when you upgrade the engine; because now you can buy off-the-shelf TCs.

However;
You can upgrade the guts of your early 904 case to 67 up parts and so get the TC interchangeability and still keep the B&T driveshaft, if you so desire. Ya gotta love Mopars. That B&T is not particularly weak, and you cannot put much tire into those factory rear tubs, so there is no hurry to get rid of it.
Lots of guys run their warmed up 360s thru that trans and driveshaft. Even the 7.25 will take some abuse if you install a SG, so it don't peg-leg. Just don't unload 400 hp into it all at once,lol. Get this; if you upgrade to disc brakes on the front, you can even leave the 9inch drums in the back, running no proportioning valve.

I have been kindof looking for a nice old wagon similar to yours to drop my HO367 4-speed into. But I would eventually tub it and it would get an 8.75... and probably ladder bars, cuz my tire-smoking days are over.
But it looks like a Dakota may be coming home to roost this summer.........so we will see.
Happy HotRodding

 

[66 Valiant wagon]

Nice! I have a 66 so I'm following along for sure!
Of the old cars I have my 66 Valiant wagon gets the most attention.

 

[Valiant63]

Luv it! Old A-body wagons are so cool. Git’er going!

 

[chryslerfat]

Looks like a good save. Mint condition if it were in the midwest here.

 

[ScamperTom]

The later transmissions have many upgrades, and got stronger over the years.
If you upgrade to an engine with a 67 up crank, it will have a different convertor support hole, and needs a bushing to use the 66 and older convertors. Not a big deal except
I have heard that finding a small-nose performance convertor is getting harder; usually neccessating a custom build.
In the long run, IMO, I think it would be best to swap the trans out when you upgrade the engine; because now you can buy off-the-shelf TCs.

However;
You can upgrade the guts of your early 904 case to 67 up parts and so get the TC interchangeability and still keep the B&T driveshaft, if you so desire. Ya gotta love Mopars. That B&T is not particularly weak, and you cannot put much tire into those factory rear tubs, so there is no hurry to get rid of it.
Lots of guys run their warmed up 360s thru that trans and driveshaft. Even the 7.25 will take some abuse if you install a SG, so it don't peg-leg. Just don't unload 400 hp into it all at once,lol. Get this; if you upgrade to disc brakes on the front, you can even leave the 9inch drums in the back, running no proportioning valve.

I have been kindof looking for a nice old wagon similar to yours to drop my HO367 4-speed into. But I would eventually tub it and it would get an 8.75... and probably ladder bars, cuz my tire-smoking days are over.
But it looks like a Dakota may be coming home to roost this summer.........so we will see.
Happy HotRodding

Thanks! A ton of great info there! This car is fairly different from my Scamp, and it’s pretty interesting to look at the differences.

Haven’t done much yet, but i did replace the broken torsion bars and swap 10 inch drums on the front, as well as strip most of the interior. Now I can call her an actual roller not just a wreck.

The floor pan is in pretty bad shape. That rubber mat did a number on it. It’s rotten through right back to the axle tunnel. The car was last registered in 1990, and i can only guess how long ago the roof of the shed it was in collapsed.

Everything in the engine bay is rusty garbage. I put some trans fluid in the engine in the hope of freeing it (it’s locked up) but I don’t see how i can get around stripping it down even if it does break loose.

 

[JDMopar]

You can buy floor pan sections from Auto Body Specialties. They leave a little gap under the seat where you have to save original metal if it's still good, but if it isn't....it's not that hard to fabricate. Your roof? Probably will have to fabricate that! Good luck with it, and it looks like a good save!

 

[Shaun3406]

I went and saw this car last year but I just didn’t have the time to get it. I couldn’t forget it though, so today my brothers and i dragged it home. A little rustier, but otherwise just as I remember!

View attachment 1715491944
View attachment 1715491945

Awesome ! I am building a 64 2 door hardtop Valiant wagon. I need the wagon only taillight housings.

 

[ScamperTom]

You can buy floor pan sections from Auto Body Specialties. They leave a little gap under the seat where you have to save original metal if it's still good, but if it isn't....it's not that hard to fabricate. Your roof? Probably will have to fabricate that! Good luck with it, and it looks like a good save!

Yeah I’ve been looking at those pans. Problem is they’re pretty expensive for only covering part of the floor. The front part of the tunnel hump is toast, as is the part of the floor under the back seat. That whole box stiffening the car transversely where the two panels meet is rusted out.

Since it’s gonna be a lot of fabricating either way, I’m wondering if my best bet might just be to frame it out with box tubing and then just weld flat sheets in rather than trying to replicate the factory floor exactly.

As for the roof, I just patched it real quick as the car will have to remain outside. I kinda like the look!

Awesome ! I am building a 64 2 door hardtop Valiant wagon. I need the wagon only taillight housings.

@waggin was telling me he was doing the same thing. It involves grafting on a coupe midsection right?

 

[waggin]

go to my photo albums theres a few pics