NHRA regulations

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duey_roc

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Is it just me or are the regulations for NHRA extremely complicated? I'm trying to follow my build with those regulations, but it's so hard to understand them. My barracuda has a 360 with a mild cam, intake, and holley carb. Standard 727, and 3.55 suregrip. What do I need to look for for the regulations I need to follow?
 
First off,What class do you want to run.? Once we know that we can give you some idea to what you are looking for.
 
Honestly it's going to be a street car. But may see the track once a month. I'm not sure on the classes... As that was confusing as well lol
 
Sacramento Raceway Park has a wednesday night race program that is pretty inexpensive ....go out there one night and look around and ask questions...

usually street classes....need battery bolted down....overflow can for the radiator.....lug nuts on all your studs...lol......seat belt....
 
Honestly it's going to be a street car. But may see the track once a month. I'm not sure on the classes... As that was confusing as well lol

Keep it simple. Slower than 11.49 if it's not a vert all you need is a helmet and if you run a slick you need a drive shaft loop.
Keep any fuel lines and fuel regulators off the firewall.
If it's auto make sure the neutral safety switch works.
Rear fuel cell requires a firewall.
Rear mounted battery needs a kill switch.

Faster gets more costly.
 
Pm me with any specific questions. I'm a certified tech inspector at my local track. I'm pretty familiar with the rulebook and how to navigate and understand it.

Kris
 
Keep it simple. Slower than 11.49 if it's not a vert all you need is a helmet and if you run a slick you need a drive shaft loop.
Keep any fuel lines and fuel regulators off the firewall.
If it's auto make sure the neutral safety switch works.
Rear fuel cell requires a firewall.
Rear mounted battery needs a kill switch.

Faster gets more costly.

I do have a rear mounted fuel cell. Same with the battery.

The early barracuda has that fold down divider between the trunk and backseat. That wouldn't count as a "firewall" would it?

My regulator is on the inner fender of the passenger side. If that's not a good spot, where can I put it?

I really need a battery kill switch even if my car is only running 12 seconds in the quarter? And 12 seconds is a complete guess since I've never taken it to the track
 
if the fuel cell and battery in rear...needs to be a sealed firewall between them and the driver......

fuel regulator can not be on firewall...

if the battery is in the trunk...you need a kill switch..
 
Do you actually have a copy of the rules? If not you need to get a copy. If you "look around" you can download old copies on the www, but if you are actually going to "do" this I would certainly get an updated copy.

A trunk mount battery needs an all metal firewall for a cell and a battery, has to be "so thick" steel and different spec for aluminum

There are many threads here on disconnects. It's not as simple as simply disconnecting the battery..........as disconnecting that battery with engine running will allow the alternator to keep the engine running. You need to address that.

Here's some of the general safety rules........

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...rhWnnGiPFq4Zoq03A&sig2=eRttL5k_F2zTm-IKR248Gw


2012 rules

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...aOnHkJcASAi0klijw&sig2=gGV-Mk5uhLMMiwRdaFq1NQ
 

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Do you actually have a copy of the rules? If not you need to get a copy. If you "look around" you can download old copies on the www, but if you are actually going to "do" this I would certainly get an updated copy.

A trunk mount battery needs an all metal firewall for a cell and a battery, has to be "so thick" steel and different spec for aluminum

There are many threads here on disconnects. It's not as simple as simply disconnecting the battery..........as disconnecting that battery with engine running will allow the alternator to keep the engine running. You need to address that.

Here's some of the general safety rules........

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...rhWnnGiPFq4Zoq03A&sig2=eRttL5k_F2zTm-IKR248Gw


2012 rules

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...aOnHkJcASAi0klijw&sig2=gGV-Mk5uhLMMiwRdaFq1NQ

I did see these by googling NHRA regulations. I think I understand what the car is going to need. I still have a good amount of work to do before it's ready
 
If you are planning on running those aluminum slots that are shown in the picture next to your user name, you might have to change wheel studs. They have to extend beyond the wheel by a minimum of whatever the diameter of the stud is. The tracks around here are requiring a suit now (either 1 or 2 piece). I still have a lot of work to do on my Duster to make it legal. I've got a roll bar but the car is probably going to have to have a full cage. My belts are out of date (they can only be within 2 years old). The 2 piece pants/jacket I have is not up to spec if I'm running under 10 secs. I won't be able to use my open faced helmet at that speed either. The faster you go the more regulations there are. I don't have a NHRA competition license yet, but apparently I will need to get one if I run under a 10.00.
 
Good topic. Since I don't have my factory seats any more I read that if not factory you have to have 4 bolts holding a plastic racing seat down and one in the back. My question is that if I don't have a cage yet do I need to put in a roll bar or could I just build it into a seat bracket some how?
 
Read the rules. Depends on how quick you think you'll go. You might not need a bar, you might need a full cage. Depends
 
I was nervous as hell about trying to return to racing. It had been so long (over 30 years) since I'd done any bracket racing that I wasn't sure where to start. I tried reading the NHRA and IHRA rule books but wasn't sure if I understood which rules applied to me.

My biggest problem was that I didn't know how fast my car was going to go. After reading through the books over and over I gradually began to pick out rules that I definitely had to key on.

My next step was to contact a friend I used to race with years ago. He had stayed in racing over the years and was a good source for info. After looking over my Duster he confirmed the shortcomings that I had found and agreed that there was no way to know for sure about some of the rules until I knew how fast the car would go.

His advice was to fix all of the things I already had planned on and take it to the track. - Preferably a track that was running a test and tune event. Not only would I get an inspection before running the car, but then I could finally find out what the car is truly capable of.
 
helmet and driveshaft loop at 13.99
roll bar at 11.50

studs must stick out 1.5 times past the lugnut
hub caps must be bolted on
Over flow can for radiator
less than 12" rubber fuel hose
they wont let those glass fuel filters pass anymore
battery mechanically held down, no bungy cord

that should get you started for how fast you'll go
 
battery hold downs are suppose to be 3/8 inch diameter...

wheel studs are follows...

The thread
engagement on all wheel studs to the lug nut, or lug bolt to wheel
hubs, must be equivalent to or greater than the diameter of the
stud. Length of the stud/bolt does not determine permissibility;
length of the engagement between the stud and lug determines
permissibility.

that mean if you 1/2 studs...the threads must be 1/2 inch into the lug nut...
 
Well it's not like my car will be ready this year anyways. I just want to know what I should do while upgrading that specific item. Sacramento raceway has TNT once a month so I'll probably go there and pick their brains
 
Well it's not like my car will be ready this year anyways. I just want to know what I should do while upgrading that specific item. Sacramento raceway has TNT once a month so I'll probably go there and pick their brains

If you go,take a few minutes, watch the track techs work,ask them questions. They will be your best knowledge base,here. Getting to know themselves personally, doesn't hurt either.
 
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