NHRA rules

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63dartman

63dartman

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Is it true that if the battery is moved from the original mounting up front to the trunk it has to have a remote shut-off located outside the car?
 
BJR is right and I believe it has to be located at the back by the battery. Guess I should have just said "at the rear of the car"
 
i believe that there is a rule about installing it too, the size of the mounting hardware ect.
 
Don't forget about the firewall that will need to be installed in the package tray and rear seat area, unless running the overpriced Moroso sealed battery box.
 
crap!!!! just when you think your ready to go to the track. So I need a battery box that is nhra approved if I don't do the firewall. I also need a cutoff for the battery. Any one got a good place to start looking for these?
 
If you put the battery in the trunk, Yes, you need an exterior mounted On/Off Lever and/or switch that is clearly marked On/Off. It's for safety, if ya happen to get into trouble the 1st thing they'll do is flip that switch. It also needs to kill the engine aka flip off engine shuts off.

I'm pretty sure you only need a rear firewall if you have a fuel cell inside the trunk area.

I'd reccomend one of the Optima Batteries, I'm pretty sure they'll pass tech with a basic battery box, securely mounted.

Pretty much mysetup Optima Battery in non sealed box, Switch located 3" left of right tailight.

You didnt mention WHY you wanted to do this. As a generalization If you need traction on the right rear or are running faster than 11 sec It's a good idea.

Hope it helps, Eric
 
Eric, I have already moved my battery to the trunk. I did it when I converted to the v-8 just for more engine room. I am running an optima with a good tray and hold down. No fuel cell
 
You'll need a minimum of two 3/8" hold downs (threaded rod works) for hold downs. J hooks are not legal. The bolts (or rod) will need to pass through the floor. If you don't have a rear firewall than you'll need the sealed battery box.

In addition to the cut off switch (Moroso or Flaming River makes them) you'll also need a relay wired into the alternator because the switch has to be wired into the positive battery cable. You'll need the relay for the alternator because otherwise it will just feedback when the switch is thrown and the engine will keep running. When the switch is thrown it will need to kill all power to everything, not just the ignition, but the fuel pumps, lights and anything else you run off it.
 
Flaming River and Applied Racing Technology both make a remote mount and handle kit. Using this saves you from having the ugly on/off switch mounted to your bumper or something. Keep in mind that with the remote handle it has to be "push" off, not "pull".

www.appliedracing.com
 
I mounted my on/off switch right in the middle of my license plate…it makes it blend in pretty well.
 
flyfish said:
I mounted my on/off switch right in the middle of my license plate…it makes it blend in pretty well.
Click to expand...

I had mine mounted like that on my old Dakota. When a cop pulled me over he told me that I was "destroying State property" and he could write me a ticket for that too. I don't know if it would have stuck or not. But I would be leary of it, just in case you run into a jerk of a cop. He ended up giving me a warning for speeding, as he didn't know how fast I was going. Just saw a loud truck with a lumpy cam take of quickly.
 
I mounted mine through 1 of the bumper bolts. You need the 4 terminal switch I have 2 of them for sale pm me if needed.
 
Everything Guitar Jones said is correct and needs to be done if you want to race at an NHRA member track.


Chuck
 
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