The software comes on a disk but is also available for free from their website. The cable I use is a simple USB to serial adapter, very very easy to use.
I can't remember exactly how I programmed it but I usually like working with nice round numbers. What I probably did is set base timing @ 40 total, with the distributor locked out. That way , if I find it runs best at 30 degrees, I subtract 10 degrees with the software and shape the curve. I may have it idling at 20 degrees which means I pulled 20 with the software. It's really slick and easy to test this way. Wanna try 34 degrees? Easy just subtract 6 degrees and dyno it. You don't even have to pickup a timing light once you've verified the base setting.
So in the video, when they try it @ "32" , depending on the rpm he sees 32 at and the shape of the curve, as the engine gets to a higher rpm it may access another 10 degrees so now it's actually @ 42 degrees. I suspect this is what's going on with the peak hp being much lower and sooner at 5900 rpm. The engine is doing too much negative work-hence the power drop off. J.Rob