Nitrous

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75BlueDuster

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Hi all

Looking for some input on cheater/sniper nitrous systems for a 383 stock rod engine going with a 100 shot. Advisable or not ?:rambo:
 
You don,t need it.LOL.There,s other tuning ways to lower your times.What compression is your engine Mike?
 
I'd say ok except for the stock pistons as long as.......(fill in the blank everyone) LOL!
 
If the engine is in good shape to begin with then as long as it gets enough fuel and you pull 4 degrees of timing out, it will be fine. The spark plugs will need to be gapped a little closer (0.025"). 100 HP squirt on a 383 is OK. You may drop a full second in the 1/4. The car will actually be more driveable for the street compared with putting in a big cam.
 
CUDA69 said:
If the engine is in good shape to begin with then as long as it gets enough fuel and you pull 4 degrees of timing out, it will be fine. The spark plugs will need to be gapped a little closer (0.025"). 100 HP squirt on a 383 is OK. You may drop a full second in the 1/4. The car will actually be more driveable for the street compared with putting in a big cam.
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I agree with this just make sure you have at least MSD 6al and good fuel pressure. 100 shot should be no problem it's really pretty tame when tuned correctly.

We run alot bigger systems than that on bikes with way weaker bottom ends without any problems.

P.S. make sure have good head gaskets.
 
go for it. I run a 100 shot on a 340 with a stock bottom dropped a second off et. it's a superpower shot . found out the jeeting is fat from nos. tke the jets and switch them around ex. 57fuel 46nos make it 57nos 46fuel i did this and picked up 3 tenths.and plugs look great.
 
can't believe no one said this yet..but hope you don't have a cheap converter...most converters without an anti balooning plate will go after a number of passes...the instant torque of nitrous at low rmp off the line causes too much stress and the converter internally explodes, throwing metal through the transmission..... ATI is the only company that even advises mild nitrous without a BP, and thats because they are $900 and up, billet, brand new converters...a B&M will be toast after 10 passes...thats your weakest spot in the driveline with No2...other than that, go fat on fuel, take a few degrees of timing out, and bump up fuel pressure a little bit...the motor will be fine with a hundred shot..good luck!!!
 
johnnymac2k6 said:
can't believe no one said this yet..but hope you don't have a cheap converter...most converters without an anti balooning plate will go after a number of passes...the instant torque of nitrous at low rmp off the line causes too much stress and the converter internally explodes, throwing metal through the transmission..... ATI is the only company that even advises mild nitrous without a BP, and thats because they are $900 and up, billet, brand new converters...a B&M will be toast after 10 passes...thats your weakest spot in the driveline with No2...other than that, go fat on fuel, take a few degrees of timing out, and bump up fuel pressure a little bit...the motor will be fine with a hundred shot..good luck!!!
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Having a BP is good insurance, BUT i know of many running small shots on stock type converters with no issues, they have made several passes too, as long as its in good condition it should be fine, Now PTC installs BPs on all there converters now & the prices didn't go up much, this is what i was told when i had them build me one last year.
 
JoeDust451 said:
Having a BP is good insurance, BUT i know of many running small shots on stock type converters with no issues, they have made several passes too, as long as its in good condition it should be fine, Now PTC installs BPs on all there converters now & the prices didn't go up much, this is what i was told when i had them build me one last year.
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agreed you can get away with "small" shots, for "several" passes..but several isn't 20....and small isn't a 150 shot...i'm unfamiliar with PTC but if they are a top end converter like a ATI then i'm sure it'd be fine assuming they're billet and new components...but for sure..a cheap $200 B&M, after 10-20, 125 shots..will eventually go..now this also depends on where the shot comes, off the line is much harder on components than the guys that run a sneaky pete system to play the top end..it's the instand torque of nitrous off the line that baloons the internals and cause stress and failure, when under N/A acceleration the converter can "slowly" spin up with the motors smaller horsepower that it would have at say...2000 RPM's on launch...throw 200 instant ft lbs of torque into a torque curve at 1500 RMP and eventually...boom...trust me, words of wisdom here
 
I went with 175hp in my Newport years ago. Stock 2bbl 383, srtock convertor, 8 3/4 with 3.55s. The engine had a small MP cam, stock iron intake and AVS, and custom duals. Even used the factory single point distributor with the stock curve in it. Had no special anything except the Carter electric fuel pump and a cheapie regulator at 4.5psi. I wouldnt hesitate to go 150hp on all stock everything if the engine is in good shape. Pull 2° of initial timing out of it for every 50hp and go have fun.
 
I know Mike isn,t on here much so will give some details that I know of his 383 engine the best I can remember.
1 season on new build
stock bottom end(383)
Eddy alumi heads(OOTB)
750HO AED carb
Headers 2inch tubes
Fuel cell
MSD 6AL
30 inch slick with 4.56,s.

His car ran a best of 11.52@117 I believe.Hope this helps some.
 
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