No brakes

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Mikeys75

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Hello there so a little history. I picked up a 75 Dart Swinger story has it its been sitting for 25 years. Its all original unmolested. I got it up and running this past weekend. The car has no brakes have to push very hard on pedal to stop. Where should I start to diag the problem? Any suggestions greatly appreciated?
 
Mikeys75 said:
Hello there so a little history. I picked up a 75 Dart Swinger story has it its been sitting for 25 years. Its all original unmolested. I got it up and running this past weekend. The car has no brakes have to push very hard on pedal to stop. Where should I start to diag the problem? Any suggestions greatly appreciated?
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Hey there... Start with checking the fluid condition/quality (burnt, cruddy, water) See if the system will bleed... Troubleshooting would point toward maybe Master Cylinder, wheel cylinders etc...

Good luck.
 
Front calipers are frozen or the hoses are collapsed, Could be many things wrong. If the car was sitting that long I would suggest starting with a complete brake system rebuild. Including all the metal lines. Driving a car that has been sitting that long with the original brakes?

That is like shooting an arrow straight up in the air. Its not if its coming down? But where and when.
 
I don't know what your budget is but you used to be able to grab 25 foot of metal line for about 20 bucks that's enough to bend your all your brake lines if you choose to do it and then double flare them yourself
 
inertia said:
Lotta those front calipers came with a black plastic piston, they always seize, as mentioned, do it all .
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I agree, when I did the brakes on my 66 satellite, the only problem I had was getting the air out of lines, one old Mopar boy told me change the line one at a time, then bleed them out every time, that way you don't have all the air in there, blew a few wheel cylinders, but it took me freaking 2 months to figure it out.... turns out one of my Mopar Brothers I got the car from, change the K member to a 70, with a sway bar and the car had the FMJ discs on it so he had the freaking bleeders mounted upside down... I eventually flipped them but to solve the problem at first I try to piece of wood exactly the size of the pads and the disk, stuck it in there took them off turn them upside down and bleed em out out that way....
 
First.... Welcome

Second.... Many on this forum (myself included) sometimes jump to a solution without all the data

Third.... Go over to mymopar.com and download your car's factory service manual, and maybe the electrical schematics

Fourth.... Google "chrysler master tech videos" on YouTube. Also some are available on Mymopar.com

Fifth ... Describe the brake feeling. If you are new to older cars you may have never driven a car with out power brakes. Takes more leg pressure than you might be used to.

Sixth... Does your car have power brakes.

Seventh... Post photos of your car and under the hood especially around the master cyl.
 
If it has drums the brake cylinder could be seized, if it has discs the pistons may be seized in the calipers.

A little more info may be necessary:

Power Assisted?

Discs up front / drums rear?

Drums all the way around?
 
We all agree that ^^^ would be the right thing. But we all don't know what press really hard really means.

Might be as simple as a bad booster?
 
Dana67Dart said:
We all agree that ^^^ would be the right thing. But we all don't know what press really hard really means.

Might be as simple as a bad booster?
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Honestly the factory disc brakes and rear drums on my 74 Duster even though their blood good and it's a new booster they don't grab till you actually put your foot in it at a lower speed but that could be the cam I have to sucking a little vacuum out of there
 
Ironracer said:
Honestly the factory disc brakes and rear drums on my 74 Duster even though their blood good and it's a new booster they don't grab till you actually put your foot in it at a lower speed but that could be the cam I have to sucking a little vacuum out of there
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Sitting for 25 years? Think about that. Would you want him coming up on the back of you with your family on board?
 
Brakes are important. Lets not give him advise on what he should try. Rebuild the complete brake system.

Screenshot_20190227-092504_Instagram (2).jpg
 
Any car that has sat for 25 years & uses Detroit's wonder metal, cast iron, [ it rusts, damaging seal surface & causes leaks ] should have all the seals, wheel cyls, m/cyl, etc replaced. Period.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Sitting for 25 years? Think about that. Would you want him coming up on the back of you with your family on board?
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No sir Ol Man Mopar, if you, ain't no Way I'd even Want ANYONE to roll that! Possible my post was phrased wrong.... my bad if it was. Basically I'm turning my car into manual so I guess I should have floated that in the post. If you back check, You can see I agreed with the Complete Rebuild. In NO manner was I suggesting otherwise. My Apologies if it came out like I was saying other than that.
 
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Mikeys75 said:
Where should I start to diag the problem?
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Could be the rusty rotors, the siezed calipers, a faulty booster, collapsed flexhoses, and/or differential oil on the rear shoes.
If you have a high and hard pedal, then the hydraulics could be fine....... at the moment.
If someone has put a clamp on the rear flexhose, that could mess you up, lol.
 
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