No Gas to the Carb When Engine Warms Up

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OK, as I understand it, this problem did not exist until You had the trunk pan replaced. That can mean the following;
1) They bent the line out of their way while working, kinking it and restricting the flow of fuel even after bending it back.
2) With it disconnected, debris got into the line/hose and ended up somewhere between the tank & pump.
3) It is just a stone-stupid coincidence, and has nothing to do with Your problem.
As far as what You've already done;
1) Almost an entirely new fuel system save for the OE hard-lines & carb. You've adjusted the float level, why, and what adjustment was needed if any?
2) Run the car with the fuel cap off,......Driving the vehicle, or just sitting still? It stalled without the fuel cap, correct?
What I doubt is the issue;
1) Hoses hooked up wrong. It would've been difficult to do in the first place, and the lines are different sizes. The vent tube is at the very top of the tank, & unless the
tank was filled to the brim, You wouldn't be getting any fuel period.
2) Tank venting. Besides the cap off test, if the tank had developed a vacuum that stopped the flow of fuel, simply removing the cap would allow atmosphere in at once,
with the accompanying "suction release" sound. The pump would be able to re-establish flow fairly quickly, not 15 minutes.
3) Pinholes in the fuel line. While they can cause aeration of the fuel, they wouldn't allow for the vehicle to drive 15-30 minutes before rearing their ugly head. There
should be signs of excessive foaming in the filter, & the supply of fuel would be inconsistent with a "lean surge" like driveability issue coming & going. Hot or cold.
1. I adjusted the float based on the recommednation of a previous post about my engine stalling (not enough fuel)
2. I took the cap off while the engine was idling, not driven.
The hard lines are the only thing that hasn't been replaced. I wonder if the gasket for the sending unit may be leaking. After I do a flow test, I'm going to blow air through the fuel lines and pressurize the tank.
 
1. I adjusted the float based on the recommednation of a previous post about my engine stalling (not enough fuel)
2. I took the cap off while the engine was idling, not driven.
The hard lines are the only thing that hasn't been replaced. I wonder if the gasket for the sending unit may be leaking. After I do a flow test, I'm going to blow air through the fuel lines and pressurize the tank.
I wouldn't recommend doing that, You could easily blow the screen off the pick-up if You're not careful, and pressurizing the tank won't tell You anything related to the stalling.
The gasket for the sender can leak all day long, the only thing it will do is kill Your MPG & stink up the garage, it has no bearing on fuel supply.
Given the cap-off reply, If You can get it to run dry/near dry, I'd try removing it and observe what results that produces w/a helper,(& maybe a portable jump pack).
 
I wouldn't recommend doing that, You could easily blow the screen off the pick-up if You're not careful, and pressurizing the tank won't tell You anything related to the stalling.
The gasket for the sender can leak all day long, the only thing it will do is kill Your MPG & stink up the garage, it has no bearing on fuel supply.
Given the cap-off reply, If You can get it to run dry/near dry, I'd try removing it and observe what results that produces w/a helper,(& maybe a portable jump pack).
If the sending unit gasket leaks, won't that suck air when the fuel pump is pulling fuel? I was going to blow out the lines after I disconnect the fuel pump. After I check everything out, I may pull the tank and check the fuel line above the tank, it may be kinked from when they replaced the truck floor.
 
If the sending unit gasket leaks, won't that suck air when the fuel pump is pulling fuel? I was going to blow out the lines after I disconnect the fuel pump. After I check everything out, I may pull the tank and check the fuel line above the tank, it may be kinked from when they replaced the truck floor.
Nope, the only thing that counts is the end of the pick-up/screen to the pump inlet fitting, that needs to be sealed end to end. Anything else is just a leak.
Take the hoses off the line at the pump & the tank & blow through it, should be clear, and any pinholes probably will show some wetness from residual fuel with that
kind of pressure going through there. If You have a good Mityvac, You could clear the line & cap one end & hook-up with a hose & see if it holds vacuum......
 
If the gasket for the sending unit leaks, YOU’LL KNOW! It’s not a small thing.
 
I can't believe no one has suggested you run the fuel pump to a gas can direct to see if problem goes away
 
I can't believe no one has suggested you run the fuel pump to a gas can direct to see if problem goes away
Yeah, thought of telling the OP that, but the car has to be driven sometimes 30min. to confirm/eliminate the failure.......with maybe a 2.5 gal. can bungee'd under-hood
not particularly the safest suggestion..:),.....not that I wouldn't/haven't...lol......................
 
I can't believe no one has suggested you run the fuel pump to a gas can direct to see if problem goes away
Actually tooljunckie recommended by-passing the lines and tank. I was going to try that after I run the flow test. I was going to connect the gas can to the fuel pump and run the engine to see if the filter goes dry while idling. A lot of people feel there's a problem between the pump and the tank. Thanks
 
Nope, the only thing that counts is the end of the pick-up/screen to the pump inlet fitting, that needs to be sealed end to end. Anything else is just a leak.
Take the hoses off the line at the pump & the tank & blow through it, should be clear, and any pinholes probably will show some wetness from residual fuel with that
kind of pressure going through there. If You have a good Mityvac, You could clear the line & cap one end & hook-up with a hose & see if it holds vacuum......
I think I will replace the sending unit with a better unit. When I looked at it, it looked cheap. It was in the car when I bought it. I read other threads where people were having similar problems and replaced the pick up with a better unit. I have only had this car for about 6 month and really have not been able to enjoy it. I'll blow out the lines and try the vac test. Thanks.
 
Nope, the only thing that counts is the end of the pick-up/screen to the pump inlet fitting, that needs to be sealed end to end. Anything else is just a leak.
Take the hoses off the line at the pump & the tank & blow through it, should be clear, and any pinholes probably will show some wetness from residual fuel with that
kind of pressure going through there. If You have a good Mityvac, You could clear the line & cap one end & hook-up with a hose & see if it holds vacuum......
I did the flow test. There was so much gas coming from the fuel tank in 10 sec I had to stop. I ran the engine at idle fo 25 min. same thing, fuel in the filter them empty. I by passed the tank and ran the fuel pump from a gallon of gas. Same thing. So there is a problem with the hard line to the carb or the float level. I never noticed until today, there is a kink in the hard line to the carb. I'm going to take Dan's advice and get rid
kinked line.jpg
filter.jpg
of the hard line and replace it with fuel injection hose and a metal filter. The picture of the filter is when I started the test. The filter is 3/4 full, then empty after 25 min. Thanks
 
I did the flow test. There was so much gas coming from the fuel tank in 10 sec I had to stop. I ran the engine at idle fo 25 min. same thing, fuel in the filter them empty. I by passed the tank and ran the fuel pump from a gallon of gas. Same thing. So there is a problem with the hard line to the carb or the float level. I never noticed until today, there is a kink in the hard line to the carb. I'm going to take Dan's advice and get ridView attachment 1715140244 View attachment 1715140245 of the hard line and replace it with fuel injection hose and a metal filter. The picture of the filter is when I started the test. The filter is 3/4 full, then empty after 25 min. Thanks
I don't believe SSD recommended substituting the metal line with 30R9 EFI hose, & I wouldn't. He suggested re-routing the fuel line per the link and utilizing 30R9 where
hose is used. Just an FYI, if You take Your car to the track, it wouldn't pass tech-in with any piece of fuel hose longer than 12" except for braided line with fittings...............................
 
I don't believe SSD recommended substituting the metal line with 30R9 EFI hose, & I wouldn't. He suggested re-routing the fuel line per the link and utilizing 30R9 where
hose is used. Just an FYI, if You take Your car to the track, it wouldn't pass tech-in with any piece of fuel hose longer than 12" except for braided line with fittings...............................
He mentioned the tech inspection. I'm not a racer, just want a daily driver. Thanks
 
No, a stalling problem like this will not (cannot) be caused by a horizontal fuel filter.

No, you do not need (and really do not want) to go adding electric fuel pumps. You're not having this problem because the car doesn't have an electric fuel pump; once you find and fix the problem it will go away.

Two items not yet mentioned: the rubber hose from the hard line to the inlet of the fuel pump, and the strainer on the end of the fuel pickup pipe inside the tank (part of the sender): new, old, absent?
I ran the flow test, plenty of gas from the tank. I by-passed the tank and connected the fuel pump to a gas can. Same problem, no gas in the filter after about 25 min. I never noticed this until today. There' a kink in the hard line near the carb. I ordered the parts you recommended, to replace the hard line. The filter is 3/4 full when I start the test, then it's empty after 25 min. Thanks.
kinked line.jpg
filter.jpg
 
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