No interior power ammater wire not getting power only when the key is in acc

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68dartgt1

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So I have a 1968 dart gt i ended up having to try and get the horn working to pass inspection to transfer title. So I pop the cover off find previous own had not connected it text to ask why said old wheel had a issue with it sticking so he just decided not to. So I hook it up it honks once and I lost all power to the interior. No power to the fuse box checked the fusable link power on bothe sides end up tearing the cluster out to check ammeter it's got power to one lug bypass it by moving the one with power to the opposite side. After I had powrr to the fuse box but still could not get headlights on or interior. Although not sure if the dome light worked before hand will need to check with test light when I get off work.

Anyways on to now so when the key is turned to acc it no longer gets power to the ammeter wire no crank no anything i am brand new to mopar and am at a loss if anyone can help
 
I would inspect around the starter relay for a burned fusible link.
 
I found a fusible link right before the bulkhead coming from the relay and tested both sides it shows 12.8v I have seen the picture of the diagram listed above but dont have another if there is a more intricate one.i tried to get the bulkhead connector out but being so old im scared im going to break it
 
So I may be way off on this but I was going to try to change the ignition switch seeing as it loses all power to the wire that goes to that ammater when it's turned to acc
 
68dartgt1 said:
So I may be way off on this but I was going to try to change the ignition switch seeing as it loses all power to the wire that goes to that ammater when it's turned to acc
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NO. Learn to troubleshoot. You may have led yourself down the wrong path, accidently

The ammeter is a simple circuit, not complicated. First, do you have a factory service manual? If not run over to MyMopar.com and download one, free

Next, this article gives a simplified diagram of the ammeter circuit


amp-ga18.jpg

Functionally, (follow the RED) power comes from the battery to the big stud on the start relay, through the fuse link, through the bulkhead connector and to and then through the ammeter, out on the BIG BLACK. Power branches off from the BIG BLACK a few inches away, behind the cluster, at the welded splice. From there, power is routed to the headlight switch ONLY for the headlight power, to the key switch, and to the fuse panel hot buss, and depending on year / model, maybe a couple of other devices

FIRST CHECK YOUR VOLTAGE with a LOAD on that circuit. Check your voltages with the light switch clear "out" and with the key in ACC. If you took your readings with everything off, a bad connection could have "fooled" you.



Identify the "BIG RED" ammeter wire going into the firewall on the engine side and check there. How to check the other end? IF YOU HAVE power at the BIG RED at the bulkhead connector, AND NOT AT the output stud of the alternator, there is a break in there. Maybe the RED terminals in the bulkhead connector. Maybe at the ammeter. AND RARE BUT it HAS HAPPENED, a failure of the WELDED SPLICE
 
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