No spark no start!

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mopower76

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Hey all, I’m having a problem with my 1979 Chrysler Lebaron I call Lebron.
I understand this is the A Body forum but you guys are alway brilliantly versed in electrical gremlins.
this old car sat for 15 years and was set to be towed off and scrapped.
I love saving these old Mopars so $300 bucks and the 4 hour round trip she was home.
Needless to say it was less than good, carbon like I’ve never seen. I got it to run with basic tune up parts and fluid changes. Ran good and lost all oil pressure suddenly.

New HV Melling pump, I ran the engine with a mix of oil, trans fluid and seafoam after installing the new pump and another pan gasket kit.
0 oil pressure and drivetrain clatter for a few...then some oil pressure… 10-15 psi and suddenly fluctuated to 25+ and went to 0 and valve train clatter again.

I shut it off and checked the oil, full so started it again, chattering and back to 10 psi but not knocking and pressure dropping to 0 then to 20 back to 0.

I decided I’m driving it to see if it changes. Almost immediately it came up to 30lbs and got quiet!!
So I ran 2 miles to the gas station to fill it up, knowing not to turn it off (just in case) right as the pump clicked off valve train clatter.
I jumped in to see Lebron once again dropped all oil pressure, I took the chance and drove it home sitting at 3 stoplights just hoping it makes it back and sounding Terrible!!
It made it home, got in the garage and shut it off… temp was good, tried to restart and it wouldn’t fire.
Let it sit for a few hours and again just cranked… Slowly. (original starter)
I put the battery charger on boost and cranked better but still nothing. On a chance I bumped the timing a little advance and it fired up and almost instantly shut off like I turned the key off and there was smoke on the drivers side inner fender! Shut off and removed the negative cable. One of the fusible links burned, one that feeds to the bulkhead and when gone no crank.
I replaced the fusible link with new fusible link wire (not sure amp rating, 20?) tried to restart and crank no start again.
This morning I pulled the valve covers off, pulled the oil filter and rocker arms. I blasted seafoam and lacquer thinner through the oil passages the no blew them out with 165 psi from the compressor repeatedly until I could hear air blowing into the oil pan. Replaced the rocker arms and shafts I had new that were on a set of heads I ran roller rockers on.
I then drained the cocktail from the oil pan and added fresh oil and filter, straight 30w Rotella and some Lucas Oil additive.

It started! It had 35psi of oil pressure!! It was Silent!!! It really sounded great and ran smooth!!
And… it shut off again like I turned the key off. This time no smoke but would not restart.
Checked for spark, nothing.

Checked for 12v everywhere, tested coil, ballast, ECM… Changed all… Nothing.

I ran a separate plug and wire to check again and noticed when I turn the key from crank back to off there would be a very weak spark… WTF…

Any ideas?!?
Obviously something has happened in the wiring when the FL burned.
I’ve checked most of the grounds I thought could be related but all are good.
It seems like something has grounded out.
Could the ignition switch have something to do with this??

Oh man do I need a wiring diagram!!!

I really needed and wanted to drive Lebron tomorrow to work.

They are never easy when they have been neglected and abused but this is really frustrating.

As always, thanks so much for the responses.

A3384394-373C-422E-B737-19EEB3C1CFAE.jpeg
 
Yep the famous "Lean Burn Ignition System".

Lots of trouble with those. Swap it out to the standard Mopar Electronic Ignition.

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Can always swap in a Points distributor and 12 volt coil. Running in 30 minutes.

Screenshot_20210721-163243_Gallery.jpg
 
Last edited:
Yep the famous "Lean Burn Ignition System".

Lots of trouble with those. Swap it out to the standard Mopar Electronic Ignition.

_______________

Can always swap in a Points distributor and 12 volt coil. Running in 30 minutes.

View attachment 1716041635
Check ALL your fuses first, check your ignition switch next. Get rid of the Lean Burn system if your car has it, the Lean Burn systems are JUNK! It was a lousy set-up. Stupid question but did you check the cap & rotor for problems? I would definitely swap/convert it over to a regular electronic ignition system anyway. PS, I wouldn't stoop to call my car Lebron, if you mean Lebron James. You're doing your car a dis-service.
 
Looks like the lean burn is gone by the distributor. First you need to get a factory service manual (FSM) My mopar has some for free. Next pics of the ignition system and the carburetor to make sure the ignition conversion from lean burn was done right. By what you have posted almost sounds like a dirty connection somewhere but need to start troubleshooting the system.

Service Manuals – MyMopar
 
IMO, before making any changes at all, you should diagnose WHY it won't run now. Failure to do that and you may end up with the same problem even if you convert to standard Mopar electronic ignition. "WHAT IF" the break in power is "BEFORE" all the lean burn stuff? Unless you find out the problem first, you may duplicate it with whatever new system you choose.
 
The car was converted to a Mopar Performance electronic ignition by the original owner and has an orange box. All tests fine and even replaced everything with known good/new components.
I absolutely do need a wiring schematic, I always order one from classiccarwiring.com I just haven’t yet as everything worked and the small stuff I saw immediately I already repaired and have working.
 
It’s named Lebron because every parts store around me calls it a Chrysler Lebron!
I was calling it Dirty Grandma (Dirty G!) until I started ordering parts!
 
See guys I was right! :icon_fU:
I would start just looking at the bulkhead connector to see if it is clean while your waiting on the diagram.
 
It’s named Lebron because every parts store around me calls it a Chrysler Lebron!
I was calling it Dirty Grandma (Dirty G!) until I started ordering parts!
Whew! Now I get it. Most of the parts store people don't know much about cars, except what their computer screen tells them.
 
I'm with rusty

Even the oil pressure dropping could have been from electronic gremlins.

That the fusable link burnt means you have a BIG electrical issue.

Maybe mice / rats / squirrels chewed up some wiring.
 
The oil pressure dropping and engine noise associated with the drop tells me it’s likely not electrical related. Two separate issues.
 
Looks like the lean burn is gone by the distributor. First you need to get a factory service manual (FSM) My mopar has some for free. Next pics of the ignition system and the carburetor to make sure the ignition conversion from lean burn was done right. By what you have posted almost sounds like a dirty connection somewhere but need to start troubleshooting the system.

Service Manuals – MyMopar
Thanks!!
 
New update… Oil pan leaking at the rear seal… looks like it pushed towards the trans…

This thing really doesn’t want me to drive it…
 
So I’m going to start a Lebron No Start! Thread since this one is (Hopefully was!) about oil pressure.

As soon as I can figure out this no spark issue I’ll know if the oil pressure is going to stay up or not!

It does show 20-25psi while cranking! Fingers crossed it stays there when it finally starts and runs!!!
 
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