No timing tab

[wheelz 63 dart gt]

So my timing cover is missing its timing tab. I took the timing civer off, and lined up the crank and cam dots while on tdc of my compression stroke. I then placed my distributor in pointing at # 1 . How do i know where to set my distributor with out being able to start it and hit it with my light. I couldnt even do that because my timing pointer tab is missing. Is ther a good starting point with the the distributor? this is where it is now , not locked down.

 

[camd64]

Number one cylinder lined up at TDC on the compression stroke and rotor pointed to the number one tower means you are static timed. Basically you are good at that point to fire it up as it will run at that. Just post up on here for the timing cover/tab in the parts wanted section. It can be done but without going into a long explanation its easier to just have the part.

 

[wheelz 63 dart gt]

Thanx again Camd64

 

[Darter6]

Ok,bear with me on this one but with all you said above,both #1 valves closed,piston at TDC, pull #1 spark plug wire, using a extra spark plug ground the plugs outer metal housing,with key on,engine not running, turn the distributor till you see the plugs gap fire a spark, snug your bolt(pictured above) this will get you close to TDC for starting. With no tab you can mark the notch on the balancer with a paint pen and a line on the timing cover/block for 0 degree TDC reference point. If you do not have, borrow a dial back timing light to set your timing to a prefered setting,lets say 10 degrees advanced on the dial on the timing light,turn the distributor till your paint marks line up. I know clear as mud. I am sure that others will chime in with something more simple and or quicker.

 

[wheelz 63 dart gt]

Wow that makes sense and helps alot. Thanx Bro!

 

[cudamark]

Finding TDC is the key. If you don't have the factory pointer or you suspect the balancer ring has slipped, you need to get an accurate setting. Lining up the valve timing dots isn't close enough unless you just want to get the engine to start and then guess the best timing by ear. This is the method I use. Pull all the plugs. Get a long bolt or threaded rod the same diameter and thread as a spark plug. Thread it down into the #1 (or #6 on a slant 6 if that's easier to use) spark plug hole so that the end of the threaded rod will hit the piston if the engine is turned over. Turn the engine over by HAND until the piston contacts the rod. Make a mark on the timing cover or make your own pointer. Then make a mark on the balancer right next to the pointer or mark you made. Turn the engine back the other way (by HAND!) until it stops again. Make another mark on the balancer. Half way in between in TDC. Timing tape works great for this or you can use a flat, flexable, measuring tape to wrap around the curve of the balancer. 10 degrees is about 5/8" from the TDC spot on a slant 6. I'd set the timing there if it doesn't ping. If it does ping, retard the timing until the ping goes away but not if you have to go after TDC. If it still pings at TDC, get higher octane fuel. Remember to only rotate the engine by hand when the threaded rod is in the plug hole. Otherwise you may do some severe damage to the engine. I do this on every engine I build even if I have all the factory original parts. You'd be surprised how many times you find the timing marks are off.

 

[67Dart273]

Cudamark has the right idea. You can buy commercial "piston stops" or build one like this:

To clarify this a little, make yourself a pointer. If you make one wide enough, you can mark it for degrees later, or degree the balancer.

Turn the engine by hand until it stops, make a mark directly under your home-made pointer onto the balancer, and do the same while rotating the engine CCW.

You will now have two marks some distance apart on the balancer. TDC is halfway between these two marks.

Now use a small, flexible tape and ACCURATELY as in check two or three times, measure around the outside of the balancer. Now calculate how many degrees per inch, and mark the wheel accordingly.

I used to like to mark the wheel out to at least 50* for checking vacuum advance.

If you calculate for 40*, measure with your tape and mark the wheel for 40*

Now you can use dividers and dive TDC-40 in HALF and if correct, you can check the two halves, for 20*. Now divide in half again, and you can mark for every 10*