Brent Stewart
New Member
On my 1981 Dodge D-150 Slant 6 4-speed truck, i recently had the #1 cylinder decide it was thru and left the block on the way to work. Long story short i found a 78 slant six in Indy and made the lower end swap. Since the head on the blown motor was brand new i swapped it to the other bottom end and re-did gaskets, and even swapped in the super six intake/exhaust and a new carb. when trying to swap head and valve train i discovered it was a solid cam and had to uset the corresponding valve parts from the doner engine, after a little fun with adjusting the valves all is well with the engine. starts right up and runs great.
My issue now it that the 4-aspeed re-hook up didn't go as well as i thought. Now when i push in the pedal there is a good amount of scrapping and noise coming from the clutch area. I believe i put it all back together the same way it came out, faig the clutch plate facing the engine the right way. I was remiss in replacing the throw out barring and related parts and that is my fault. Upon the initial startup i could here a scrapping whine from the trans area that went away when i removed the clutch inspection cover as it appeared that the ring gear was hitting the front of the cover i was ablet to provide clearance and it got quite again. it runs and drives great but noisy when clutch peddle is depressed, quite when running and driving. My Mechanic friend says he thinks i put the clutch plate in backwards and suggest i get a kit to replace all if that is the case.
1. Is there some difference in the spacing that would allow the flywheel to be more forwar that the last engine and therefore hit the cover? and is there a spacer or something i am missing?
2. When i go to get a new clutch kit which one do i need as when i look them up by year/make /model/engine it still gives me 3 options. 10" 10.5", and 11" What is the best way to ID which one i have? as the clutch assembly did not look original and obviously the engine is not i want to buy the correct pieces and wondered if there was anything else i am missing...?
My issue now it that the 4-aspeed re-hook up didn't go as well as i thought. Now when i push in the pedal there is a good amount of scrapping and noise coming from the clutch area. I believe i put it all back together the same way it came out, faig the clutch plate facing the engine the right way. I was remiss in replacing the throw out barring and related parts and that is my fault. Upon the initial startup i could here a scrapping whine from the trans area that went away when i removed the clutch inspection cover as it appeared that the ring gear was hitting the front of the cover i was ablet to provide clearance and it got quite again. it runs and drives great but noisy when clutch peddle is depressed, quite when running and driving. My Mechanic friend says he thinks i put the clutch plate in backwards and suggest i get a kit to replace all if that is the case.
1. Is there some difference in the spacing that would allow the flywheel to be more forwar that the last engine and therefore hit the cover? and is there a spacer or something i am missing?
2. When i go to get a new clutch kit which one do i need as when i look them up by year/make /model/engine it still gives me 3 options. 10" 10.5", and 11" What is the best way to ID which one i have? as the clutch assembly did not look original and obviously the engine is not i want to buy the correct pieces and wondered if there was anything else i am missing...?
