Non Rallye fuel gauge either full or empty

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ram250098

ram250098

69 Barracuda
Joined
Nov 25, 2007
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Location
Cookstown Ontario Canada
Pulled the sender out of my tank today and wired it to my gauge to double check the sweep..it was not my sender {ohms are right where they should be} So when I fill the tank, gauge reads full after the float drops to around 3/4 the gauge goes right to empty. I have heard the gauges can be re-calibrated but I think this one is beyond that as it will not show anything between the E and F.
Any advice?
Thanks
AL
 
I would start by roughly plotting resistance through the movement, what you are looking for is a sudden increase which indicates damage to the resistor or corrosion/ loose/ poor connection between the wiper and resistor

Maybe I'm misunderstanding.........are you saying you have the gauge properly powered up in the cluster, and have CHECKED the sender resistance, and the gauge still not accurate?

What resistance(s) are you using?

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Hey Al ! Wayne from up here in Penetang..

Did you wiggle that float arm around while checking resistance? I'm suspecting in your hand the rheostat contact arm is scrubbing the windings and looks good and then you put it in the tank floating and it moves the arm enough so the contact arm isn't touching the windings.

Quick check, gauge showing empty.. you know you still have fuel so crawl under and take an ohm reading from sender stud to the sender face and see if it's infinity or somewhere in the 10 to 74 range it should be. Do the same from sender stud to frame to see if the tank/sender is actually grounded.
 
That is about how the aftermarket senders work. I wonder if that is what you have. They are linear rather than non linear like the oem ones. Bunch of threads on that here.
 
I have had 30 cars and damn near everyone I buy needs a sender...so I have some experience with this LOL. All checks out. I just find it odd the gauge will only read full even though the sender works fine.
Guess I will try the gauge tomorrow with a 1.5 volt battery and see if I can get it read half way...I assume if it doesn't the gauge will be the issue?
 
You need to check the gauge while properly connected with a IVR/ limiter, and with known test resistances. That fuel gauge with each resistance should read the same as the temp gauge. If you have a Ralleye cluster, the oil gauge should also read the same as the other two, or at least "within reason."

You say it "all checks out." This is a bullshit statement. We can't sit here and see what you've done, or know what you've actually "checked." If it all checks out LOLOL, then it should work, right?

I would not rely heavily on the "1.5v" test. That will give you some idea, that is all.
 
If you have the original sending unit, send it to Wolf & Sons for a rebuild. A friend of mine had his done & when it came back, it was bang on.
 
67Dart273 said:
You need to check the gauge while properly connected with a IVR/ limiter, and with known test resistances. That fuel gauge with each resistance should read the same as the temp gauge. If you have a Ralleye cluster, the oil gauge should also read the same as the other two, or at least "within reason."

You say it "all checks out." This is a bullshit statement. We can't sit here and see what you've done, or know what you've actually "checked." If it all checks out LOLOL, then it should work, right?

I would not rely heavily on the "1.5v" test. That will give you some idea, that is all.
Click to expand...
 
Most of the conversations here about the aftermarket senders classify them as junk. The chinesium built senders very rarely read accurately, that why I put in Wolf & Sons, someone who can restore the original senders after everything else has been check out.
 
Two questions... What model you working on? What resistance did your sender show near the center of its sweep/travel?
Calculator says half way between 80 and 10 is 45. That isn't what a chrysler gauge is looking for. 23 ohms is half of this gauge needle travel. 45 ohms isn't empty though. 45 ohms should be a bit above empty, approx' 1/8 tank.
 
Turns out it is the gauge. I tightened the nuts on the back of the gauge and she moved to 1/4..then I taped the the gauge a couple times and the needle just dropped back down to empty.
Thanks fore the input guys...AL
 
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