oil pressure

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dickyeb

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i have 360 k/b piston, 11.5 comp, comp cam, high volume oil pump. my problem is when u rev up the motor it smoke real bad. let idle you can smell it but not bad. it was smoking all the time, went back and replace valve stem seals and it quit smoking at idle. i notice that when i break idle my oil pressure is betwwen 60-65 and 25 psi at idle. whats weird i broke the motor in on the ground, no smoke. put the motor in the car took about 2 mouth to get back started. the only thing i changed was i but a 90 deg oil fillter adapter and diffrent carb. can any one help its drivng me nuts to see it smoke. motor has 50 miles on it.
 
Pull the plugs and find out which plugs are showing signs of Oil.

How visible is the smoke when you bust the throttle open.

New short block but not new heads????

Pull the dip stick.......does the oil have a smell of gas or the oil is real thin?
 
It's not oil pressure. I like to use ONLY cast rings but it seems more and more difficult to get them. Some rings take awhile to break in. You can NOT break in an engine "on the ground," and 50 miles is not enough for Moly rings, either.
 
What are the cylinder pressure readings? Did the engine start immediately the first time you fired it? Who assembled the long block?

I only partially agree with the statement they can't be broken in "on the ground". While an engine cannot be fully broken in on a stand a properly honed and cleaned bore witha properly assembled set of moly rings will be almost fully seated before the cam break in is done. After that you need to place a load on it to completely seat the rings. But- if the carb was way rich, or it didnt fire, or the hone is too rough, or the bores were still dirty, or too much oil was used in assembly then it will take a while for them to completely seat, if they ever do...
 
the first time when it smoke bad i pulled plug and plugs were wet with oil. so i replace valve stem seals i fired it up yesterday and at idle it quit. put when you snap the throttle it would smoke then when it got hot it would do worse. i pulled the plugs again and they were dry. when i changed carbs it ran real rich till i had somebody with carb experince tuned. im starting to think like you guys said it not broke in all the way. the next question is how do i put a load on it to break it in. im new at this stuff
 
aslo when i broke the cam in it didnt strart right up had timmig off. and me and a freind assebled it.
 
To properly break it in, you do the initial 20 mins at 2000 rpm for the cam. But to complete the break in you need to have it in a vehicle and accelerate from 30 mph to 50 mph a few times up the road. This raises engine vacuum and helps the rings seal better. Also don't rev the engine too high in the first 500 miles and don't hold a constant Rpm at highway speed. After that consider it broken in.
 
At first when getting warmed up it's smoke coming off a camp fire it's light and you can smell it. When it warms it's like when get behind a geo metro when it wide open on hill and it smokes real bad. Not the best analogy but hope it helps
 
Since you and a friend assembled it. What was the endgap set to on your compression rings? Too much can cause oil burning.
 
What ever k/b spec was. The piston came with a ring gap sheet along with piston portion. And clip I think I still have the paper
 
Are you sure your not still burning off the oil that had accumulated in the exhaust system before you replaced the valve seals?
 
Not enough info
Smoke out the tail pipes come from the following:
Piston rings not seated, improper gap, bore wore out, most of the time seen on idle or acceleration
Valve guides wore out, you see it more when you let off the gas.
Black smoke carb too rich.
White smoke coolent in the combustion chamber.
 
I was thinking that to oil being in the exhaust. I got to finish up the brakes. Motors in a 66 dart gt and tell u what rear wheel cylinder are expensive. But I need to drive it. Just sitting on jack stands and running the motor is not good. Need to really brake in the motor than see if it still acting up. Go all day then I will be scarred to run my motor. Thanks you all for your help. If y'all want to see I being broke in go to YouTube type mopar 360 450hp. it's the one with black intake and red and gray valve cover on the ground with green water pipe sticking out.
 
I'd stop running it until it's raod-worthy (sounds like it's not yet?) and give it a 100 miles of normal driving. See if it smokes less over time. I think it's ring-related, but give it a chance to clear up on it's own. If there is no improvement as you drive, you should do a leak down test to see the condition of the rings. Has this friend built an engine with KB hyper pistons before? There are special top-ring gap specifications.
 
definitely need to get at least a good hundred road miles on it. if it doesnt appear to be going away , then worry about it.
 
Thank you all for yalls help. I'm just paranoid about my motor and how much money is in it. Hopefully it will be on the road next week I will keep y'all posted on how it does
 
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