Oil pump won't prime

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like_A_pike

that's not factory
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if I tighten it to spec (30lbs) without a gasket, it jams the pump drive somehow. It turns fine in my hand and if I bolt it up hand tight. I'm thinking about going with a gasket to see if the extra space keeps it from sticking. (you know there are 6 threads on to use or not to use a gasket in here and we seem pretty evenly split. I may have found a convincing argument for the "use" camp) If not, I think now is a good time for someone to tell me what the bushing does for the pump drive and could this be my problem?

thanks again

lap
 
by jammed I mean that I had to push the intermediate gear up from below because it will not turn. I nearly burned up my little drill and pret'near took my arm off with a Dewalt.

Anybody run into this? thanks

d
 
sounds like it is not seating properly - are you using stock bolts in the main cap? are they studs or new bolts? i've seen some get bound up from incorrect length bolts causing them to sit uneven and bind up.
 
The "Bushing"... The pump drive Bronze bushing? Yes this could be your problem... They can be tight when new. Also if the drive gear and shaft are used they can be scored. What distributor are you running? Does it have an "O" ring?
 
sounds like it is not seating properly - are you using stock bolts in the main cap? are they studs or new bolts? i've seen some get bound up from incorrect length bolts causing them to sit uneven and bind up.

I don't know where these bolts came from (from the pump to the cap) but they are two different sizes and are within a couple of tenths from bottoming out in the cap. Yes this thing is going on 8 ways of crooked it looks like even when I snug it up. I'll try different hardware.

tell me, what kind of resistance is normal for this drive? I can get it to turn ok but it isn't turning as easy when it's out of the cap.

The bushing is up under the distributor (or intermediate gear) right??? I don't think it's in play here.

I don't want to have to buy another pan gasket! grrrr

lap
 
Has this block been main studded? High volume or stock pump?(If high volume, do not run a stock style intermediate shaft.Mopar makes a sweet broached one.)
 
The pump may be hitting the main bearing bolt, i needs to be flat, if you got main studs, its almost a guarantee that its hanging up on it. You almost have to set the shaft receiver in the hole and then get it to seat..And the pump will drag big time when it starts pumping, my corded 120V Dewalt started stinking about 5 second into it and it was really dragging. Remember to plug your oil sender hole...ask how I know...
 
the cap is broken where the pump mounts on. one of the bolt holes came apart. Can that be repaired?
 
the cap is broken where the pump mounts on. one of the bolt holes came apart. Can that be repaired?

A picture is worth a 1000 words! If the main cap is broken your in for a big repair. Snap a picture and post it let some of the seasoned experts direct you in the right place.
 
Has this block been main studded? High volume or stock pump?(If high volume, do not run a stock style intermediate shaft.Mopar makes a sweet broached one.)

no studs (yet) and the lower end is stock. I'm wondering if a stud and some mill work will help my new situation with the cap at this point

Is there a way to identify an original end cap? it sounds like one can't just slide the bearing out and slap in another cap. I swear I always finger tightened the bolts all the way on and then torq'd to 30#. But I was begining to wonder if the hardware was too long. I was putting on shorter bolts when this happened.
 

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I can chk my parts cd if you like and see if it give dimensions on the bolts?? Post up the year of cuda and the engine...send me a pm as a reminder.

Thanks
Steve
 
in order to change caps the motor needs to come out, disassembled , get line honed with the new cap.

here is my block getting honed with new caps..

_DJV9886.jpg
 
I'd have to agree w/ DJVCUDA. I'd get a new cap & then you would have to get it align honed. That old cap is no good now. whatever caused it to break had to put some stress on it & where there's stress theres distortion to the metal surface where the pump seats & even if it could be repaired you would have to have it rehoned. It might be a good time to upgrade the bottom end to 4 bolt mains since you have to do the line honing anyway.
 
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