Okay; stumped!!!!

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The DC

The DC

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I pulled my old 1962 Dodge Lancer out to begin restoration again, after several months, ad she started quite nicely. She ran a little hit so I added coolant and she seemed to be running fine.

Then she just died out and wouldn't start again. The dash lights come on and the oil light {she's got plenty of oil} but she won't turn over.

Starter, maybe?

Also, while I was fussing with her, before she died, I couldn't get the headlight switch to pull out. Turning the switch engaged the interior light, but she wouldn't engage the headlights. The floor switch seems also frozen.

Hmmmmm.....
 
sounds like you cooked some harness with that jank headlight switch. try jumping the starter solenoid with a screwdriver. big lug to one next to it.
jumper.jpg
 
Okay; thanks! I’ll try jumping it and see if she turns.

Not much more detail...she was running for 15 and died and won’t turn, nor click like the points are tapping.

After sleeping on it I wondered whether there’s an AT cut off switch and the park hadn’t engaged when I tried to restart it?

I know that the headlight switch is frozen from pulling out and the brights switch won’t tap even when I crawl down aNd press it.

There’s been lots of humidity this yer and before putting her up I was having trouble c the AT controls. The Neutral switch kept sticking in the panel [gonna have to repair or by another AT control assembly].


Thanks much guys....
 
You Can ground that bottom right lug for neutral bypass..ha, I just got the pancake joke. It looks like a Burger King door handle..
 
Likely corrosion at the bulkhead when considering all of your symptoms and the mention of humidity. It is a good idea to take each female connector out of the bulkhead and tighten the loops.
 
Well, you've all been very helpful. Thanks.

During the day my mind kept returning to the humidity effect and my inability to trigger the dimmer switch on the floor or even pull out the headlight toggle. I was able to turn the switch and flick on the interior lights.

WhenI got home from work I played with the park lever several times, in case the the cable wasn't triggering the AT solenoid.

After several tries, the park state triggered and I was able to bypass the solenoid block-out. The engine turned over. She wheezed out again and I had to retriever the park lever a couple of times to engage park and restart.

I think I have a lot of cleaning and oiling to do. The accelerator pedal is sticking and the linkage doesn't spring back into place. A job for WD40!

I'm hoping this discovery will help someone else if they experience a similar issue!

Now I have to find some AT push-button panel parts to free the jammed neutral button and clean a lot of contacts...
 
sticking throttle would be my greatest concern. Early builds didn't have the free throttle return slot in the throttle pressure/kickdown linkage. The one thing worse than seeing a run away Plymouth nearly run over some kids... is being one of those kids.
The stem and knob in the headlight switch are made together / don't come apart. You'll have to hammer destroy that switch to get your knob with stem out for reuse in new switch. Good luck with it.
 
RedFish said:
sticking throttle would be my greatest concern. Early builds didn't have the free throttle return slot in the throttle pressure/kickdown linkage. The one thing worse than seeing a run away Plymouth nearly run over some kids... is being one of those kids.
The stem and knob in the headlight switch are made together / don't come apart. You'll have to hammer destroy that switch to get your knob with stem out for reuse in new switch. Good luck with it.
Click to expand...


Any advice in dealing c either?
 
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