Oooops i did it

[Swedishdart]

Crap, stupid son of a **+x*.*^.... Today i was going to fill the other half of my 440 engine with "block filler" I mixed it with water and poored it in but now here is the problem... i over filled the water jacket :sad9: the filler was i level with the under side of the water inlet. So when i light with a flashlite i the rear of the engine i cant see the light trough the inlet. If i´m lucky it will sink so much så i can at least se some litght tomorrow.. But what can i do if i will run the engine on the street? I use Stage VI heads so i can lead the water directly from the pump to the front side of the head and in te rear i will lead it over to the other head and then back to the pump.... Will it work?

 

[BJR Racing]

Yep,
Prostock tech. go for it will work fine but keep the time limits down and or the mileage, or use a high volume pump on the water to keep the heads cool enough, and perferably aftermarket, like a billage pump from a motor home 3-5 gallons a minute and a good fan system.

BJR Racing

 

[Swedishdart]

Yep,
Prostock tech. go for it will work fine but keep the time limits down and or the mileage, or use a high volume pump on the water to keep the heads cool enough, and perferably aftermarket, like a billage pump from a motor home 3-5 gallons a minute and a good fan system.

BJR Racing

I use a mopar performance alu pump. I don´t know what it flows but will it be enough?

 

[BJR Racing]

The only thing that I can tell you is to watch the temp when driving, if the temp go's up then you'll have to go another route. The nice thing here is the fact that you have aluminum heads which they tend to run cooler any way. You may want to run a temp sensor in the outlet side of the water flow in the line that returns to the radiator. This will give a good average of what the heads are running for temp.. Being that the heads are the only thing having water in them this is why I say to have a high volume water pump, because the heat that will be transferred will be intense and then use some synthectic coolant like water wetter, this will help in 15-20* cooler running engine. Let us know how it works out.



BJR Racing

 

[Swedishdart]

The only thing that I can tell you is to watch the temp when driving, if the temp go's up then you'll have to go another route. The nice thing here is the fact that you have aluminum heads which they tend to run cooler any way. You may want to run a temp sensor in the outlet side of the water flow in the line that returns to the radiator. This will give a good average of what the heads are running for temp.. Being that the heads are the only thing having water in them this is why I say to have a high volume water pump, because the heat that will be transferred will be intense and then use some synthectic coolant like water wetter, this will help in 15-20* cooler running engine. Let us know how it works out.



BJR Racing

Tanks alot!! I´ll keep this thread updated on the outcome of these modifications.

:thumblef: **** Luck Racing :thumblef:

 

[Swedishdart]

Here is some pics of my engine block filling misstake :sad9:
It reads 6cm..... or 60mm....or 2.36 Inch :thumblef:

 

[BJR Racing]

From what I can see and tell from the pics. that you should be fine. I thought that you had the block totally filled and no water in the top of the block, but with 2+ inches of flow you shouldn't have any problems. But still keep an eye on the temps until you get used to how it runs and acts.


BJR Racing

 

[moper]

I thought the same, and that stuff is not removable..lol. With any filler, you should also invest in an oil cooler. With that much water not around anymore, the oil will become a larger part of your cooling system, and an auxillery cooler should be used.

 

[Swedishdart]

Thanx now a big stone fell of my heart thanks alot guys!!!!!!