opinions on competition engineering adjustable drag shocks c2620

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Penstarpurist

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Was hoping to get some opinions on competition engineering adjustable drag shocks c2620's. Getting to the part where we have the front inner fender wells stripped, recoated and putting all new 10" disc brakes, calipers, hoses, pads, etc. And want to put the shocks in as well. The car is getting the 400bb we built for it, 411 Richmond sure grip 8.75 green bearings, etc. So, the car obviously will see some drag time, but my son wants to be able to do some car shows, cruises and the occasional summer drive. I was checking out Summit and ran across these, so there warning section says shocks with 90/10 compression loading and unloading should not be used on street driven cars. So, my question is whose used or using these and how do they handle for the street, and are they worthy on strip use. Is there a better, but affordable option? I'm not opposed to putting more cash out for something that better fits the use. Just thought these seemed reasonable.
 
Was hoping to get some opinions on competition engineering adjustable drag shocks c2620's. Getting to the part where we have the front inner fender wells stripped, recoated and putting all new 10" disc brakes, calipers, hoses, pads, etc. And want to put the shocks in as well. The car is getting the 400bb we built for it, 411 Richmond sure grip 8.75 green bearings, etc. So, the car obviously will see some drag time, but my son wants to be able to do some car shows, cruises and the occasional summer drive. I was checking out Summit and ran across these, so there warning section says shocks with 90/10 compression loading and unloading should not be used on street driven cars. So, my question is whose used or using these and how do they handle for the street, and are they worthy on strip use. Is there a better, but affordable option? I'm not opposed to putting more cash out for something that better fits the use. Just thought these seemed reasonable.
I've run 90/10's on the street for many years and never had an issue. Think of it as piloting a car on the street with pizza cutters a big block and Et Streets with three grooves in them for tread. You have to respect the car and it's limits. I believe they are a tried and true shock and should work well for you.
 
I've also run 90/10's for 25 years on the street and track no problems, except when I took them off and put on standard shocks I had no traction.
 
I like what I'm hearing. Sounds like a good set-up for what we are looking to accomplish.
 

I just talked my buddy into putting them on his 67 BB cuda CE 90/10, 70/30's
he said he definitely could feel the difference, very happy with them.
 
I like what I'm hearing. Sounds like a good set-up for what we are looking to accomplish.

Spend a bit more money and buy some Viking double adjustables.

Seriously, what does 90/10 or 80/20 mean other than the shock comes apart 9 times easier than it goes together? That stuff is obsolete.

You get three settings. If you get double adjustable shocks you can separately adjust bump and rebound. What do you do if you need to slow down front end rise, but still keep the bump soft with a 3 way like you are looking at? Answer: you can't. If you go from the 90/10 setting to the 80/20 setting you made the shock stiffer in bump and slower in rebound when what you really wanted was the same bump and slower rebound.

Do yourself a favor and call Viking or QA-1 and talk to them about the double adjustable. Don't let QA-1 talk you into a single adjustable.

Shocks are one of the most important tuning tools there is.

BTW, to tune the CE shock you have to take if off, or at least most of the way off. A Viking is done while on the car.

Caveat emptor.
 
I will definitely check the Vikings and QA-1's out. Thanks for the comparison info. I want to get the car to the point where when my son is running it the car does what it needs to when it counts every time so he can focus on his part of the task. Keeping it straight and down the track.
 
I've run 90/10's on the street for many years and never had an issue. Think of it as piloting a car on the street with pizza cutters a big block and Et Streets with three grooves in them for tread. You have to respect the car and it's limits. I believe they are a tried and true shock and should work well for you.
I have also been running this set up with all four corners using Competition Engineering shocks. Just have to have some respect for turns.
 
I never even had a problem in the corners because the front shocks don't like to compress so there is no dive.
 
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