opinions please, on how to break in ....

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Break in procedures vary about as much as the number of guys who build engines. I'll tell you what I'd do and leave it at that, since I've had no problems doing it.

When the engine is initially fired, do a quick check of the timing and oil pressure, check for leaks, and do a cam break in. Do not use synthetic oil, unless your ring manufacturer spcifies it. Most synthetics can actually inhibit ring seating. Run the engine at 1500-1800 RPM for 10-15 minutes, go to 2500 RPM for 2-5, then slowly back down to idle. Allow 5-7 minutes to cool, then shut it down.

Do a tuneup, set the timing properly, adjust idle mixture and speed. Then, you can quit for the night, or take a drive. Drive the car gently until up to operating temp. This is the time to look for issues of cooling, oil pressure, driveability. Once up to temp, hold a steady speed for one or two miles, then speed up or slow down, but gradually increase the speed. When increasing the speed, do not be afraid to get into it a bit. You want cylinder pressure to act on the rings to seat them. Drive at least 25 miles this way. Take the car home and check for problems. By now, there shouldn't be any.

Let it cool, and then drive it like you own it for a total of 100 miles. Change the oil. Stay with non synthetic for 10,000 miles, then do as you see fit.

Hope this helps.
 
Fire it up,check timing,oil pressure,adjust idle speed,check for leaks..take it out and DRIVE it,at varying speeds come back change oil and filter..your all set,as a matter of fact my last motor i broke in going down the 1/4 mile..that stuff about letting it run for 20-30 minutes sitting there is at 2000-2500,always gets a big laugh out of the gentleman that assembles my motors..
 
Interesting link. I think the theory is right, but certain things he explains I might debate. His method is mainly for bikes. Air cooled bikes. And they are very unique to properly break in. (I used to help my biker buddies at the track and learned a lot..lol) Technologically, most bike shops have modern equipment and the hi-tech machiing gets done. In automotive, I would venture top say that at least 50% of the honing done is too rough for the Moly irngs the guys tout so much. At least 50%. In a properly honed block, the cross hatch is barely visible, and it shines like it's polished. If you have honing marks you can feel with your finger nail, it's too rough. Also, you hear him mention using 4th gear. Bike engine dynos have to use the transmission too. Automotive does not. He also does not mention valve springs... Because a bike uses an over-head cam setup where there are no lifters. So whiel the idea of using pressure to seat the rings is right, his explanation and execution would lead to an eaten cam with any build having a cam over 230°@.050. I built a run in stand to do my initial firing now. It covers me by ensuring it isnt turned over 100 times trying to get oil pressure or the carb full of fuel, or figuring out hy there is no spark. It ensures I see any leaks or issues with my work before the customer has it in his car. It makes any repair or re-torquing, and valve spring work a breeze. And, it allows me to drop the oil and filter and check for issues. I cannot load the engine tho. The loading is what makes ring seal, and that takes a litle longer in an engine where it's turning 3500rpm instead of 6500 like a bike.
 
Thanks guys, keep the comments comming.


moper said:
Interesting link. I think the theory is right, but certain things he explains I might debate. His method is mainly for bikes. Air cooled bikes. And they are very unique to properly break in. (I used to help my biker buddies at the track and learned a lot..lol) Technologically, most bike shops have modern equipment and the hi-tech machiing gets done. In automotive, I would venture top say that at least 50% of the honing done is too rough for the Moly irngs the guys tout so much. At least 50%. In a properly honed block, the cross hatch is barely visible, and it shines like it's polished. If you have honing marks you can feel with your finger nail, it's too rough. Also, you hear him mention using 4th gear. Bike engine dynos have to use the transmission too. Automotive does not. He also does not mention valve springs... Because a bike uses an over-head cam setup where there are no lifters. So whiel the idea of using pressure to seat the rings is right, his explanation and execution would lead to an eaten cam with any build having a cam over 230°@.050. I built a run in stand to do my initial firing now. It covers me by ensuring it isnt turned over 100 times trying to get oil pressure or the carb full of fuel, or figuring out hy there is no spark. It ensures I see any leaks or issues with my work before the customer has it in his car. It makes any repair or re-torquing, and valve spring work a breeze. And, it allows me to drop the oil and filter and check for issues. I cannot load the engine tho. The loading is what makes ring seal, and that takes a litle longer in an engine where it's turning 3500rpm instead of 6500 like a bike.
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I do wonder if he mean the first 20 miles after the cam break in, and I can´t see him mention how it should be done when using moly rings.

Moper, for how long would you estimate that it would take to have the moly rings seated properly?

Would I benefit to put load on the engine mixed with deceleration during the first, lets say 20-50 miles?
I´ve had my engine running in two sessions at 15 minutes resp 20 minutes.
I did too use a engine stand which was just awesome, really recommend to use one.
 
Well have a garden hose, drain pan , timing light, motor oil,tools, helper, tach, and 30min of 2000-2800rpm variance.
 
don't stomp on it for 250-500 miles depending on the hone job.
Steady acceleration is the ticket, gradually speed up & slow down & so on.
 
No, bike cams dont have any break in. They have the cam acting directly on the valves . There is no cam break in. And as an air cooled engine, the rings and pistons wear to fit the bores. So as he says, you run them, shut them down and let them cool. Then run them, get them hotter, and shut them down and let them cool. These are big bore street/race engines. The only thing they have in common with a car engine is they are four stroke and have the same basic parts. My instructions are to take it easy rpm wise for the first 100 miles, limit the idle time, and drive it under load as much as you can. A long hill, or simimlar is great. With the right hone pattern, the rings will be almost seated after the cam break in. The final bit will happen in the first 20-30 miles if it's the right kind of mileage. After that 100 miles, you can up the timing and beat the hell out of it all you want.
 
you guys are mentioning can break in. but not what your'e breakin in. if you are running a flat tapett cam, you need to make sure that the lifter is spinning in the bore. you can see the push rod rotate if its spinning, so is the lifter.the contact point of the lobe and lifter is the break in. these two parts actually run in together.if you are running a roller,this is no longer an issue. your cam bushings are the exact same as your crankshaft, and you never hear of anyone breakin in a crankshaft, if my pushrods are turning, i run it till it is up to operating temp(thermostat cycles).if adjustable, i check lash, and start driving it just like i intend to drive it.break it in like you will use it.i understand if you think i'm nuts, but if you believe the factory machine work was as good as what you just had done you are too. htem motors were put together in around an hour, maybe got 10 minutes of run time and out the door they went.and more worked than didn't. my two cents, and i hope you don't mind my ranting.
 
a68postcar said:
you guys are mentioning can break in. but not what your'e breakin in. if you are running a flat tapett cam, you need to make sure that the lifter is spinning in the bore. you can see the push rod rotate if its spinning, so is the lifter.the contact point of the lobe and lifter is the break in. these two parts actually run in together.if you are running a roller,this is no longer an issue. your cam bushings are the exact same as your crankshaft, and you never hear of anyone breakin in a crankshaft, if my pushrods are turning, i run it till it is up to operating temp(thermostat cycles).if adjustable, i check lash, and start driving it just like i intend to drive it.break it in like you will use it.i understand if you think i'm nuts, but if you believe the factory machine work was as good as what you just had done you are too. htem motors were put together in around an hour, maybe got 10 minutes of run time and out the door they went.and more worked than didn't. my two cents, and i hope you don't mind my ranting.
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:thumbup:
 
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