Over center spring with hydraulic clutch bearing?
- Thread starter ChargerST
- Start date
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yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
It really depends on static plate pressure. If you have over 2100 pounds or so you don’t have to remove it. Once you get below that you might have to remove it. Go under about 1600 pounds and it will have to come out.
ok, good to know. Is a 2600 lbs static pressure plate - non adjustable for now so I'll leave the OC spring in then. I don't know the mechanical leverage of the hydraulic TOB. The master cylinder (wilwood) has a maximum stroke of 1.12" (3/4" bore) - no idea how far this will push out the TOB.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Anyone know of a lighter spring?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
There is no magic in "hydraulic". With given diameter of slave/ master, a hydraulic pedal which moves the same distance as an original mechanical pedal will push just as hard (or soft) There isn't some magic boost, there. You will likely gain "a little" from lack of friction in the mechanical parts
As you make either the slave larger or the master smaller in diameter, the pedal effort becomes easier, but you lose stroke as you do so
Car will be converted from auto to manual so I was free to choose what type of clutch actuation method I want to have. Basically it doesn't really matter if its a mechanical (linkage, cable) or hydraulic type - they all do the same: convert the pedal movement to clutch departure. If the tip of your pedal moves 8 inches and your clutch lifts 0.050" from the flywheel you have a certain leverage (160:1 in this example) - no matter what type of actuation. It is my understanding that you can divide the clutch pressure (2600 for my pressure plate) by the leverage and get the force (2600/160 = 16.25lbs) necessary to press the pedal.
The over center spring is just there to help holding down the pedal when running pressure plates with high spring rates (which diaphragm clutches usually don't have) - totally independent of the clutch actuation method.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
The OC spring in a stock application assists in operator pedal effort to disengage pressure plate load on one side of center. On the other side of center the OC spring lifts the pedal to the stop.
Sorry, I missed in #1 that you have a 3-finger pressure plate. Usually when removing the overcenter spring is mentioned, it's a diaphragm clutch. If the overcenter spring helps, leave it in. I have a diaphragm clutch, something in my mechanical linkage (with the overcenter spring in) won't allow my pedal to come back up when pushed in. Everything has been put into alignment, but no go. So without the overcenter spring, my diaphragm is just as hard to push in as your 3-finger. So, have been watching for posts of hydraulic clutch applications, they are supposed to be a little easier than what I have now.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Search the threads. Find what some have done to overcome the floppy pedal syndrome issue once going to a diaphragm PP.
It's not impossible to bend a spring end. Maybe a brake shoe return spring would worth a shot. You will still need to get past "center" with your new diaphragm.
I have a (light) spring to hold (barely) the pedal up. It's pushing the pedal down that is difficult. My problem is scar tissue from 2 hernia surgerys. I do not know of anyone close, that has my set up with a hydraulic clutch, that I can try and judge whether the hydraulic is any easier. Anyone else's judgement is just that, their judgement.
In the end, it will cost around $500. to find out. Oh, my other car is an automatic!
Thank you!
In the end, it will cost around $500. to find out. Oh, my other car is an automatic!
Thank you!
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