Oxidized paint recovery?

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sabre67

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I have a 71 Duster with very oxidized paint on hood and trunk lid. Can I use 1500 grit and wet sand to remove oxidation then use power buffer and compounds to bring color back? The reason I ask is I believe the factory paint is single stage . Thanks for any tips

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Try some 1500-2000 grit in an area, along with polishing compound & then wax to see what happens. Don't go crazy on it, just take it down a bare minimum. You have your work cut out for you in restoring a shine to the car. Be extra careful on the sharp edges as the paint maybe thinner in those areas.
 
I would not sand it, it needs cleaned good before buffing.
Wash it good with Dawn dish soap, then again with Dawn and a clay bar.
Dry good then buff with a quality foam pad and Meguires 105, then follow up with 205.
The add wax, then glaze.
Put a finer pad on after each wax change.
 
I have a 71 Duster with very oxidized paint on hood and trunk lid. Can I use 1500 grit and wet sand to remove oxidation then use power buffer and compounds to bring color back? The reason I ask is I believe the factory paint is single stage . Thanks for any tips

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Wash the car good. I use a terry cloth rag and dish washing liquid. Rinse well.

Clay bar or use one of the new black foam pads that replace clay bars.

No need to use 1500 grit. If you want to get aggressive use 2500 or 3000 on a wet dual action sander, but stay away from the corners/edges.

A heavy cutting compound and a wool or high cutting pad will blow right through that oxidation in seconds.

Buff with a heavy cutting compound and clean or change your pads when they get loaded up. Wipe the car down good and then use a finishing compound.

Seal the finish with one of the new/ long lasting ceramic sprays a few times.
 
This situation makes me wonder. If after sanding the color is intact and nicely uniform, could a clear coat be applied rather than polishing out the already thin remaining paint? I’ve painted several cars, but it’s been a long time. One was painted with lacquer, two with enamel, so I have no experience with modern base coat, clear coat finishes and don’t know what the limitations are.
 
This situation makes me wonder. If after sanding the color is intact and nicely uniform, could a clear coat be applied rather than polishing out the already thin remaining paint? I’ve painted several cars, but it’s been a long time. One was painted with lacquer, two with enamel, so I have no experience with modern base coat, clear coat finishes and don’t know what the limitations are.

I think it all comes down to material compatibility and surface prep, but experienced painters may chime in. I've only sprayed a dozen cars or so, and used matching products to do it.
 
Definitely give it a try. I'm on my work pc and don't have any before pictures to show, but I did the same thing. Basically washed it real good then used a heavy cut compound on a buffer. It turned out surprisingly well.

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I’ve used a product called New Finish. I guess it’s a wax that worked really well on oxidized paint on a tan Aspen I had. I went thru a lot of rags but it worked great. Shed water for years after. I’m not saying it’s a perfect product but for my tan ish beige color it was amazing and like $8.00 in the orange squeeze bottle and did like 3 cars. No machine just hand circles.
Joe
 
We used to use powdered Comet cleanser. First with Terri cloth and if needed moved to soft bristle brush. Compound then polish
 
Turtle wax color back works well for removing grime and oxidation.
 
What’s the original colour under that oxidation?
 
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