Painless wiring???

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68383GTS

68383GTS

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Has anyone used a painless wiring kit on their A body?What issue did you run into?Do you think it was worth it?Any pics after install?

Thanks,Jim
 
every post i see on various mopar boards all say the same thing. painless isn't so painless..lol


what exactly are you looking to do?
 
I bought a painless kit that someone else had !!! FAIL !!! It was complete except some of the underdash stuff had been "cut to length" the GM column connectors had been installed, and all of the rest of the accessory terminal packs were used/ gone.

I used this kit to do a "partial rewire" of the Dart, for now tying into the factory front section of the headlight harness, and tying into the factory tail lamp harness at the plug in the kick panel. I re-used my connectors (heater, etc) that were OK, and replaced the dash PC board connectors with "Molex" style from Radio Shack.

Painless could have saved "us" a ton of work, if they had

1 numbered the wires ONLY instead of labeling their function. This is because if you want to use, say, the power windows circuit to power something else, it would only have a wire no. and not SAY "power windows" while it's REALLY going to something like the fuel pump

2 For the money you pay for these, you would think they could afford to give use Mopar drivers MOPAR WIRE COLORS, and stop shoving "GM style" column connectors down our throats

3 Neither Painless nor Francis seems to be able to just "deal with" Mopar ignition (bypass) and regulator circuits. They all want you to "do something different." (All it would take is ONE MORE WIRE from the ign switch through the bulkhead!!!!!)

4 The fuse panel, while having a HUGE multitude of fuses are NOT necessarily connected "where you want" and the way the panel is bussed, it's rather difficult to re-direct. For example, there are circuits I want to use "for other use" but because a circuit was on the accessory buss (and I wanted ignition run) I really could not utilize it. Also, some method of re-labeling the fuses would be handy. I now have to "remember" that the fuse marked "power windows" REALLY feeds part of the stereo system.

5 In my opinion, some of the wire sizes are a little anemic. Ya, they may BE at least as big as factory, but we all know how many accessories "we" tend to hang on our cars!!! Some of the new HP ignition systems draw WAY more current than factory!!

6 In the case of Painless, THERE IS NO DIAGRAM!! I finally sat down in my chair, with the fuse panel, and DIAGRAMMED where each fuse was fed from (hot, accessory, or ign run) and charted it all out. There IS a chart that if followed exactly, details where each wire "goes" but in some cases they are not CLEAR where that wire comes FROM

I would say that you have to have a GOOD understanding of how your Mopar system was supposed to work, as well as wiring in general to launch into a Painless kit.

The more complicated your car is, the worse this will get. If you have a "boat" with stuff like delay timers, security system, A/C, cruise control, etc, etc, this will only get worse. You need a GOOD ACCURATE factory diagram, know how to read and understand it.

(Another example is the later cars using the so called "field loads" relay on the high output alternator.)

All this extra "junk" just adds up, and is nowwhere documented in these "eazy" kits.

In my case, I found a late Mopar minival power center box (fuses and relays) which I mounted on the left apron in front of the washer bottle. These relays give me fuel pump, ignition, and high and low beam headlights, with a "blank" for maybe security/ alarm or some other.

THE ABOVE is one of the smarter things I've done, goes a long ways towards solving the "dim headlights" thing.

I also made the decision to just feed wires directly through the holes in the bulkhead connector and eliminated it, as well as ran a nice big wire directly from the alternator to the start relay.

On my 67, I found an article to convert a cheap voltmeter and mount in the ammeter spot, and did so. PERFECT. Adjusted the reading to be 14V when centered on the old ammeter scale.
 
Here's my .02
A large pecentage of any vehicles problems are electrical. Having factory wiring diagrams along with a general knowledge of DC circuits are priceless when trouble shooting. This is why I wouldn't give a nickle for any aftermarket wiring harness.
I did need to make some changes and upgrades to the factory harness though.
I found digital copies of the factory wiring diagrams and used Windows Paint to modify them so they show the changes. These drawings were then printed and placed in the owners manual jacket in the glovebox. The only thing I still seek is nice vinyl stickers for my relay enclosure and sreviced side the instrument panel that read "see owners manual supliment" .
 
At some point in time during my resto on my Formula I need to replace all the wiring.I was just wondering if the painless would be better than the stock wiring?

Jim
 
I just started to install my painless harness. I have all the wires routed to there locations and everything seems to be ok so far. I need to get different connectors for the steering column because the factory ones fell apart! you are supposed reuse those. right, almost 40 year old connector to reuse. I think the harness seems good to me. Glad to get rid of those crappy bulk head connectors and that crappy instrument pannel. I am putting in my own guages! It is going to work good I think, I will probably have to figure some things out, After all it is a universal mopar harness, not a dirrect bolt in one!
Jared(72demon440):toothy8:
 
68383GTS said:
At some point in time during my resto on my Formula I need to replace all the wiring.I was just wondering if the painless would be better than the stock wiring?

Jim
Click to expand...

i guess it depends on what your gonna do with the car. if its going to be all stock then a stock harness should be good.. but if your gonna add electrical equipment you may be better off upgrading the system. i went with the american autowire highway 22 kit for my dart. very nice and complete kit that was easy to adapt to my car. replaced every wire in the car. every connector and socket was rebuilt or replaced. i plan to add efi,a/c and a way better sound system in the future. i know the upgraded harness will handle anything i want it to. i changed my turn signal plug to the gm style and a universal type of plug for the ign switch definatley upgrades overt he chrysler styler connectors. also used weather pack connectors for many things under the hood and connections that are out in the elements.
 
the reason no one makes updated plug and play kit for mopars is that not enough mopar guys buy that stuff. too many worried about original crap. gm and ford guys are more willing to go away from the stock crap.. not sure why mopar guys are like that. maybe they are just scared of something different . who knows. first thing a mopar guy will ***** about is price then god forbid it have a plug that doesn't look original..

these classic update kits that AAW make (http://www.americanautowire.com/classicupdate.html) are great they allow as close to plug and play as you can get and its will also allow you to add more then just the stock options and will be alot more reliable and safe. but they don't make them for a mopar yet. last time i was there buying my kit they were starting to look into possible making a classic update for a mopar but they were concerned about the market for them. me personally would love to see it but i'm not so sure that enough would be interested in buying one for their car to make it worth making for them.
 
Any one try this company's products??
looks like there new but its an easy set up

http://www.abewiringharnesses.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=A&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=ABodies[/url]


looks like they may have the right idea
I run Painless in my Dart but it has not been Painless.. haha grrr!
 
well for the OP i have a NEW in BOX, never opened the bags or anything Painless kit i would sell you...

just never used it...

PM me if your interested
 
I rewired a 64 Valiant with an EZ Wiring kit.
Pros:
1. It wasn't too bad to install.
2. When I ran into an issue their tech support was very responsive and knowledgeably.
Cons:
1. GM wiring colors
2. No back up light wiring.


Bear
 
Let us know what you think ls23 GTS
how EASY is it?
how good are the directions etc.
and if would u do it again ,when all is said and done,
thank you
 
I used the RF kit. It worked fine. I would probably use the American Auto Wire kit if I did it again. Seems like that kit has more features/extras.

Has anybody used ??
[URL]http://www.keepitcleanwiring.com

I'm not sure why I have this website saved. I can't remember if a member used this or if I saw it on one of the Car shows on Spike?
 
I did a painless kit in my 69 dart. Wasn't too bad but if i didn't have 12V circuit experience it may have been harder. There are some spots where it is just not explained and you have to think about it for a minute. but if you have a wiring schematic and voltage tester you should be able to figure it out pain free ...

After my research I probably would have gone with an American Auto Wire kit though
 
6dart9 said:
I did a painless kit in my 69 dart. Wasn't too bad but if i didn't have 12V circuit experience it may have been harder. There are some spots where it is just not explained and you have to think about it for a minute. but if you have a wiring schematic and voltage tester you should be able to figure it out pain free ...

After my research I probably would have gone with an American Auto Wire kit though
Click to expand...


i agree. you really have to understand what your doing. if you have no idea about the elictrical system in your car you'll pull your hair out doing it.
 
I did the Painless kit on my 1970 Duster and found it very friendly. They do not have wiring for the RallyDash but I sold the dash and it paid for the wiring kit and I made my own custom dash to my own taste. no matter what kit you ask about you will find someone who had a hard time with it. The painless kit marks all the wires and even though they didn't have a diagram I found it easy to understand what they sent with the kit. To me ,well worth the money. Complete job took a weekend.
 
So there is no bulk head connector at the firewall.So I am guessing you need a 3/4-1 inch hole for the wire to run through?
 
yes thats how i did it.. i don't remember what size hole i drilled though.. i know it should have been a hair bigger though.


page2.jpg
 
68383GTS said:
So there is no bulk head connector at the firewall.So I am guessing you need a 3/4-1 inch hole for the wire to run through?
Click to expand...

You can also just feed the wires through the existing bulkhead connector after the old wiring terminals have been pulled out. At least one, for your main feed, will have to be reamed a little.

The advantage of doing this is that if you need to yank the harness out of the car, the bulkhead "inner" section will still pull out of the bulkhead, and you'll have a nice large hole where you can pull the rest of the harness through.

In my case, the one plug for the wipers was in good shape, so I just left it alone.
 
I've got a Ron Francis unit I'm getting ready to install in my '63 Belvedere. I've just cut every wire out of the car and should start installing the new harness next week.

I'm also closing off all of the holes in the firewall, and running the wires under the drivers side front fender to keep the engine bay clean. Yes, it could make tracing wires a little more challenging, but once my wiring is in I doubt I'll have to mess with it later.

I like the 'kits' are organized, and, though someone mentioned numbering versus textual ID of the wires (which I think is a good idea too), it does simplify installation for the electrical novice in lieu of a full blown schematic to work from/create.

Southernman
 
I've used the EZ Wire kits.....last one was my son's 84 D150......at less than half the cost of a Painless kit.....I am very impressed with their kits and tech. The truck has close to 10k on it since we finished and no electrical gremlins have popped up :glasses7:

I will be putting another one in the 64 Valiant....if I ever get that far...LOL

PS....We used the EZ-21 kit on his truck and it did have a backup light circuit :coffee2:

Will use the EZ-12 on the Valiant :burnout:

Rickster
 
Southernman said:
running the wires under the drivers side front fender to keep the engine bay clean. Yes, it could make tracing wires a little more challenging, but once my wiring is in I doubt I'll have to mess with it later.
Click to expand...

With the increased fusing on most of these kits, hopefully everything will be properly protected and you'll never HAVE to "trace wires."

That is one big problem with old Mopars---much of the system was never properly fused--or fused at all.
 
I think the reason for the Chevy wire colors and connections is the whole street rod/350 Chevy bs. Because they (street rodders)would use as much of the engine donor car as possible. Painless offers an add on that gives an additional 8 keyed circuits. I used one of these to wire the 12 volt on my teardrop trailer, and just wired a toggle switch in place of the ignition switch wire.
 
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