paint motor with a brush?

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pishta

pishta

I know I'm right....
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Seems it would be the best way to really slather on the engine enamel paint with no waste. I have sprayed for years but it take about 3 cans @ $8/pc and the hard edges still seem to come out very thin. Clean motor with Dawn, then follow up with some brake cleaner and paper towels, final spray down and then go to town. Let it dry for about a week?
 
Why not. 99%of the surfaces you are going to paint are rough/cast anyways. Only problem I can see is what kind of paint are you going to use? Most good engine, or high-heat paints are going to dry too quickly to be able to brush on.
 
I don't see why not? The Eastwood Engine Paint kits even come with three brushes

p40797.jpg
 
Hmmm...

Next time I rebuild a motor, I just might have to attempt this.
IMO, I think the brush-on paint might be a little more durable.
 
POR makes a nice engine painting kit that you brush the paint on with. It looks like a fine product.
 
Last couple of Engines I built, I painted with single stage urathane through an HVLP gun. Still look great.
 
Maybe brush the initial coat, spray the finish coat. Mike Liston uses rustoleum self etching primer and rustoleum enamel. I was surprised, his engines look good. Apparently it is a good deal for what it costs.
 
Why not..........I painted my car with a brush.........
 
I have used eastwood engine paint with nice results.. I do spray it though. Have also used it on rears and tranny. It is very durable and shinny.


http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss115/racerkilla/camaro/10526169_10152532742271465_1553689187076700979_n_zps4833df62.jpg[/IMG][/URL]


 
The 74 'Cuda that I owned had an engine in it that was painted burgundy when I bought it. Because I had no plan to pull the motor I brushed orange over it and it turned out very nice. It was really a pita trying to do it in the engine compartment but I was able to get to everything that was visible. I did have to use solvent to clean up any areas that i got the new paint on where I didn't want it. I used a series of different sized brushes and spray engine enamel that I first sprayed into a cap and then dipped into. The spray enamels do tend to dry fast but that was OK. It made the paint thicker and covered better. I had poor luck when I tried using a ceramic paint though. It tended to want to curdle the previous coat when I tried to hit spots I'd missed.
 
I painted my last engine I built with a brush and used POR engine paint .

It was great and easy to put on , and you could apply extra paint easily where you needed it .

And you didn't have to mask anything off or worry about overspray.

I would definitely do it that way again.

Here is the engine in question

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/vbpicgallery.php?do=big&p=29714#photo
 
"G2" paint system...here they are brush painting a Mopar...plum crazy?
71challenger2.jpg


Man, those AMC motors have a busy front end!
 
Does anyone here use GLYPTAL PAINT for the internal areas like the lifter valley anymore? I have used the external brush on engine paint and it works fine and a lot less overspray and less masking lol.
 
[QUOTE Man, those AMC motors have a busy front end![/QUOTE]

They have the oil pump made into the front aluminum cover (alum wears = low oil pressure), distubtor mounts in the cover (if cover isnt lined up or wrapped strippes teeth off the distbutor driving oil pump) When it blows up again its getting a big block mopar
 
I always spray paint , and 2 or 3 really thin coats , I find if the paint is to thick it cracks and peels . Always use high heat enamel .
 
pishta said:
"G2" paint system...here they are brush painting a Mopar...plum crazy?
71challenger2.jpg


Man, those AMC motors have a busy front end!
Click to expand...
Like the colour , next time I'm painting mine in that colour .
 
dragondan64 said:
Does anyone here use GLYPTAL PAINT for the internal areas like the lifter valley anymore? I have used the external brush on engine paint and it works fine and a lot less overspray and less masking lol.
Click to expand...

That's what we used on my 408.
Ted
 

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dragondan64 said:
Does anyone here use GLYPTAL PAINT for the internal areas like the lifter valley anymore? I have used the external brush on engine paint and it works fine and a lot less overspray and less masking lol.
Click to expand...

I've bought glyptol paint for every engine I assembled. I apply it to the lifter galleys and all the internal areas that get bathed in oil (including the heads). I was always told that it helped to seal the casting and allow oil to flow faster back to the pan. I think that it keeps any contaminants from adhering to the cast metal and allows them to be picked up by the oil filter.
 
Depends on what type of finish you want. I have painted many things with all the pains of spraying - done several with a brush. I have had many many complements from painting my old Ford truck with a brush and none for all the pains I took on other surfaces. Remember - Its the eye appeal and what the part is. A nicely painted valve cover will certainly be noticed - a cast block will not. The rough finish seems to reflect more color from a distance. I have been painting my old 40 Dodge 6 - in car - with a brush and on cast it looks really great. Better than rust. Just depends on what you are painting, the type of product you are using, and the care you take to do it.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
Just FYI.
Later,
Bcudamatt
 
I brushed my engine with the Eastwood ceramic paint Hemi Orange (black is rattle can engine paint). The brushed evens itself out and does not thin out on the edges. I really like it, I have done a few engines with a brush and they still look great. I painted the block, then it sat for a year, got dusty, and then I painted the heads.
 

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