Paint recomendations

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Tadams

Tadams

Tadams
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Acrylic urethane, Acrylic enamel ect. not sure which way to go. I'm getting close to starting the interior. Thanks
 
BAse/Clear Urethane

I like DuPont and house of color.
 
Looking at going back original color. Car is gold on gold. Had considered ivory with gold interior, but more than likely will stay with gold
 
have used acrylic urethane single stage and base coat clear coat ....both have advantages and disadvantages ....cost wise it's a no brainer you can get a gallon of single stage for 100 bucks ...triple that and then some for bc/cc....don't be fooled into buying the big name brands like ppg ...dupont etc. they all make the paints for most of the private label company's that sell them for half the price...the coating store has a great line of paint and colors or they can mix you oe. if you want ...if its not a show car and you are doing it yourself i would go with the acrylic urethane single stage ...which is really clearcoat with color mixed in ....go with the slow activator put on four med. wet coats let it sit for a week ...then cut and buff ...no-one will know its not bc/cc ...as long as your going with a solid color ....if not bc/cc is the way to go...just from my experience ....hope it helps ...
 
Helps a lot. I painted a few cars years ago, and feel comfortable doing this. Just a lot of new products out. Thanks for the ideas.
 
Hi,

Yes, paint has changed greatly since our cars were built. The original paint was acrylic enamel. The old acrylic enamels had lead and other heavy metals that gave them their durability. Today's newer acrylic enamels are no where near as good if you can find them. For a solid color single stage urethanes are a good way to go and save the extra step of clear coating. Although clear coating a single stage will give you a very chip resistant paint job.

Base/clear coat is the most popular system today. The base coat is very soft and depends on the clear coat for shine, UV resistance and durability. To further confuse matters in paint choices there are lower line , mid line and high quality upper line paints available from many makers. Back when our cars were built it was pretty much Dupont and Ditzler (PPG). I would suggest using the highest quality paint your budget will allow. A good paint job requires a lot of prep work and it doesn't make sense to me to do all that work and use the cheapest paint you can find. You will likely get many recommendations on paint. brands. It all depends on how much your willing to spend on paint and what your goals are for the finished paint job. Do you want it to look good for a few years, will it be mostly stored in a garage or will it be outdoors all the time and you want it to look good 15 years down the road?

By the way , I don't know of any majors who private label their first line paints.
 
Hi Pete. Thanks for the info. This isn't going to be a show car, but will go to some shows and will spend a sheltered life in the garage most of the time. I manage a company which is 8 miles from home and may even drive to work on sunny days. I just wish to do it myself and have a good looking 65 Barracuda Formula S. You rarely see any of these around, so I'm sure it will get it's share of attention.
 
here's another trick too to keep cost down and get a deep gloss finish ....two coats of single stage ...on the last coat have a already mixed batch of clear coat also ready ...wait only 5 minutes on the flash (still wet can't let it lock down) of single stage and then put on a light coat of clear ....then wait the normal flash for the clear appox. 20 minutes then put on a good wet coat ....you get a real base clear job for half the price and a deeper gloss ....you can even put more the one wet coats if you want ...the cats *** clear is wet wet or wet wet plus from all candy .com.....150 bucks a gal but you get 5 spray able quarts....if you call them ask for tenn great guy will talk you thu any and all you have going on about painting your car ...saved me many times ...
 
I think I'm going for the original look, not a really high gloss look. Thanks for the advice. I haven't really make up my mind
 
barbee6043 said:
depends if you want the factory look or the ultra shiney B/C. durability also enters into the equation not to mention costs.
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There should be any difference in the shine between the 2, only the depth. You also have the option of a flattener in the clear if you do not want gloss and would prefer semi or flat.
 
Awesome. Thanks for the info. It looks like I am going to be delayed a while working on the interior rust issues. I do want shine, but I have seen some that just look to good, if that makes sense. I guess I prefer a factory look. I remember my father bought a 63 Valiant new. I remember the look it had was different from the cars today. Or maybe that's my cloudy memory.
 
I used Interlux Brightside single stage urethane boat paint. Very reasonably priced, no VOC issues, high UV protection, it's hard as granite and looks very "original".
Two good coats, cut and buff and good to go.
 
I know the boat paint is very durable. thanks for the info
 
I think for the look you want a single stage urethane will be the closest to the original acrylic enamel. What are your plans for painting the car? Remember the top coat will only be as durable as what is underneath it. This is a 50 year-old car and may have previous repaints over the original factory finish.

You may want to consider stripping it down to bare metal and starting over again with newer materials like epoxy primer, a 2K primer/surface, reseal with epoxy and then your top coat. One way to approach this would be one panel at a time.
 
This will not be a show car, although it will visit a few. Mainly just for fun, maybe drive 8 miles to work on a nice day and live a sheltered life in the garage the rest of the time. It has been repainted and I am going to strip it down. The body seems to be straight and only one place does it show any bubbles which will need some work.
 
I would suggest either base coat clear coat or the integrated clear method suggested above for the inexperienced or painting in an open air garage where runs or trash might need to be buffed out. A single stage gold mettalic is just not going to buff without break-coating. Single stage metallics are pretty much what you see is what you get whether acrylic, urethane, or brand, and single stage gold is one of the more difficult colors to lay down without mottle.
 
I like PPG base coat clear coat,The clear is just one more step and will last for years,Use a good epoxy primmer and then primer surfacer and you will have no problems,Painted the last three cars this way and they looked great.
 
GeorgeH said:
I would suggest either base coat clear coat or the integrated clear method suggested above for the inexperienced or painting in an open air garage where runs or trash might need to be buffed out. A single stage gold mettalic is just not going to buff without break-coating. Single stage metallics are pretty much what you see is what you get whether acrylic, urethane, or brand, and single stage gold is one of the more difficult colors to lay down without mottle.
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I agree, if the original gold is a true metallic and not a solid color single stage is not going to let you do much with it if you need to clean it up. I don't really remember true metallic colors back in the mid 60's on these cars but, it was along time ago.

If it is a true metallic, a base, clear system is a better way to go. Dustpan73, What PPG system did you use? PPG has their first line systems and Omni and Shopline, which is basically Omni for their "Platinum" distributors. Top line PPG gets rather pricey.
 
I'm not quite to the painting point just yet, but heading that way. To paint and replace the whiskers, I would think it would be best to remove the door glass and vent window. Maybe looking at 30 for 40 days for actual paint.
 
Sorry Tadams don't mean to hijack your thread but I'm in a similar situation only with plum crazy on 70 340 swinger. Dodge lists it as metallic but I was considering using The Eastwood Co 2K Urethane paint system ONLY they list plum crazy as a single stage (could clear last) and not a metallic . I would be taking mine down to bare metal epoxy, body work, prime/surface then color maybe clear
Tired of runaround from paint guys in my area never painted before but want car on road
Any comments on Eastwood or advice ???
 
Hi pa340dart,


A single stage paint can be either a solid color or metallic. If it is a solid color you can cut and buff out any imperfections such a dust or dirt in the final finish. You can't do this with a metallic color because you will disturb the metallic flakes and you will change the appearance of the area you sanded or buffed to remove the dust or dirt.

I don't remember plum crazy as a metallic back in 1970 but, perhaps someone else who has worked with that color will chime in.

If it is a true metallic you would want to use a base/clear coat system. If you get some trash in the base color coat you can sand it out and reapply some base color. Then you apply several coats of clear. If you have trash in it you can cut and buff and not disturb the metallic flakes below.

Eastwood does not produce paint and is simply selling someone else's paint with their label. I don't know who's paint it is but, you might be better off buying from the original source price wise. You might also check with your local auto parts stores and auto body paint suppliers to see what is available locally. Dupont and PPG are major paint suppliers and have first line and lower value lines available.
 
Pete in NH said:
Hi pa340dart,


A single stage paint can be either a solid color or metallic. If it is a solid color you can cut and buff out any imperfections such a dust or dirt in the final finish. You can't do this with a metallic color because you will disturb the metallic flakes and you will change the appearance of the area you sanded or buffed to remove the dust or dirt.

I don't remember plum crazy as a metallic back in 1970 but, perhaps someone else who has worked with that color will chime in.

If it is a true metallic you would want to use a base/clear coat system. If you get some trash in the base color coat you can sand it out and reapply some base color. Then you apply several coats of clear. If you have trash in it you can cut and buff and not disturb the metallic flakes below.

Eastwood does not produce paint and is simply selling someone else's paint with their label. I don't know who's paint it is but, you might be better off buying from the original source price wise. You might also check with your local auto parts stores and auto body paint suppliers to see what is available locally. Dupont and PPG are major paint suppliers and have first line and lower value lines available.
Click to expand...

I believe eatwood is repackaged kirker products I just painted one of my vehicles with it pics to follow
 
Pete in NH said:
Hi pa340dart,


I don't remember plum crazy as a metallic back in 1970 but, perhaps someone else who has worked with that color will chime in.

If it is a true metallic you would want to use a base/clear coat system. If you get some trash in the base color coat you can sand it out and reapply some base color. Then you apply several coats of clear. If you have trash in it you can cut and buff and not disturb the metallic flakes below.

.
Click to expand...

Plum crazy isn't metallic but why anyone would spray single stage today is beyond me.
 
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