Painting a repainted car?

[Kent mosby]

My car was repainted before I got it. I am almost finished with all the mechanical work. Originally, it was going to be a street/strip car and I was ok with the paint. Now that our drag strip has closed, I am going to make it a driver. I want to redo the paint but have never painted before. One side the panels are nice and straight but the passenger side has seen obvious repairs before. I do not plan on making it a show car but I want it to look good.

There is not any visible rust anywhere. Where do I start to assess the damage, learn about prep and paint techniques? I like the color but I am open to change. I know that many others have done this before me. Help me follow in your footsteps. I like to study techniques so books, youtube or websites appreciated.

 

[Frodee]

My car was repainted before I got it. I am almost finished with all the mechanical work. Originally, it was going to be a street/strip car and I was ok with the paint. Now that our drag strip has closed, I am going to make it a driver. I want to redo the paint but have never painted before. One side the panels are nice and straight but the passenger side has seen obvious repairs before. I do not plan on making it a show car but I want it to look good.

There is not any visible rust anywhere. Where do I start to assess the damage, learn about prep and paint techniques? I like the color but I am open to change. I know that many others have done this before me. Help me follow in your footsteps. I like to study techniques so books, youtube or websites appreciated.View attachment 1715719839

Love the color it is but if it was me seeing that side of the car I would strip it to bare metal and redo the body work so it was straight and make sure no rust has been filled in with just bondo and paint. You never know how much it will cost till you get it to bare metal and see what is hidden behind the paint and bondo.
Lots of guys here to help and really depends on how much you want to spend on getting it fixed right.

 

[Dartswinger70]

Yeah what he said. if it has been re painted once (or two paint jobs, one over the other,take it down to metal) its time to take it down and fix rust ,dents etc. they say issues are like "blisters" this is why the paint "raises up" in places over time.

 

[Kent mosby]

Any resources that you recommend? Websites or youtubers?

 

[Frodee]

Yeah what he said. if it has been re painted once (or two paint jobs, one over the other,take it down to metal) its time to take it down and fix rust ,dents etc. they say issues are like "blisters" this is why the paint "raises up" in places over time.

Mostly if you plan on keeping the car for a long time.

 

[Frodee]

Any resources that you recommend? Websites or youtubers?

None that I know that are good. Iv'e Been a body man for almost 45 years and I'm not real good at explaining how to do do things on a computer but lots of guys here can help if you hang on you'll get some good ideas soon I'm sure.

 

[Kent mosby]

None that I know that are good. Iv'e Been a body man for almost 45 years and I'm not real good at explaining how to do do things on a computer but lots of guys here can help if you hang on you'll get some good ideas soon I'm sure.

That explains why your car looks so good. I don't envision that quality from me. I was a precision machinist for 12 years and a dentist for 33. Attention to detail comes naturally, hopefully that helps.

 

[Frodee]

That explains why your car looks so good. I don't envision that quality from me. I was a precision machinist for 12 years and a dentist for 33. Attention to detail comes naturally, hopefully that helps.

I think you will do a good job Kent and would be happy to help if I can but the main problem is I can't see the car and what is the problem areas. If it was mine I'd take it apart down to nothing and start over but first I would make sure it's not all filled with bondo to cover the rust areas. I'm not trying to say it is but if someone painted over the side you showed a picture of then it wasn't done right in my book.

 

[barbee6043]

Start taking it to bare metal at the obvious problem areas, and then use your common sense from there. You can quickly see what you are dealing with. You know you will have to get RID of rust with good metal, and maybe it has lots of good metal but dings and dents that were not blocked out good.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Many may disagree, but i have been following a series of Bad Chad doing a repaint on a Jaguar.
He uses basic tools and methods. Hes done many paint jobs in his home shop.
Find some videos, and glean what suits you.

Bodywork and prep is 90% of the paint job.

 

[Kent mosby]

How about recommended sources for supplies? I have a DA sander and grinders but my compressor will not support air tools. Is it time to upgrade that or can I do without. Recommendations on fillers, primers and paints? I have a local automotive paint supply as well, but it is rather small and may not have a great selection.

 

[Oldiron440]

I worked for this guy for a few years in the very early 80s, I think the videos are a little hokey but there is good information to be found.

All the paint techniques apply to non custom paints as well.

 

[barbee6043]

I have used TCP Global out of Ca. (along with the local PPG store.) They have a Color Library that can match anything. I have used their primers and are OK , but I admit I prefer Southern Polyurethanes the best.
You can buy a cheap palm sander at HF and some 80 grit, it is not for stripping but can work somewhat but will not strip like 80 grit on a DA. . Paint stripper has gone the way of the EPA and costs half as much as it used to, and I am told works 10 time less! I have not used the new formular. Yes an adequate compressor is not cheap.
Yes a DA will uses a lot of air!

 

[jonn6464]

How about recommended sources for supplies? I have a DA sander and grinders but my compressor will not support air tools. Is it time to upgrade that or can I do without. Recommendations on fillers, primers and paints? I have a local automotive paint supply as well, but it is rather small and may not have a great selection.

You've got a DA, so that's a good start. Get some 45, 80, 150, 320 sanding discs. Start with the 45 and get the layers of paint and primer down until metal starts peeking through. Use the 80 to get it down to the metal. Now you can assess the situation. Any rust holes, where are the low spots, where are the high spots?
Do your metal work. Patch any holes (you'll need a MIG welder of you don't have one), pound up the low spots from the backside, pound down the high spots from the front side.
Now clean the metal, then clean it again, then spray the metal with epoxy primer (and only epoxy primer). EP is a waterproof sealer and the base for the filler work you will do next.
Get some 3M Platinum filler (part number is 11020 or something close). Mix it and lay it on just like drywall mud or tile grout. Just a medium layer will do, 99% of it will end up on the floor anyway. Sand with 120 (with a sanding block!!) crosshatch pattern, until it's level. Spray with 2K primer and evaluate your work. Most likely, there will be a couple more spots to touch up. You can use glaze putty or more filler. Respray those areas with 2K primer. Sand the entire area with 120, just light pressure.
Here is where opinions will vary. At this point I will shoot it with a 4K high build primer. Featherfill G2 is my go to. This is thick stuff that requires a 2.0 nozzle to spray out properly. Some say 1.8, I disagree. This primer will fill swirls, small scratches, and small pinholes. Sand this down with the 320.
Now you are ready to spray the paint. Personally, I always put down a layer of sealer before paint. Up to you. If you use sealer, sand with 400 before paint.

On the areas that already lookok good, you can sand down with the 320 until the clear coat starts to disappear. Then go back over with 400 and spray the new paint on it.

Are you going with single stage or base/clear? There's more discussion to be had, based on that answer.

 

[Sublime one]

That explains why your car looks so good. I don't envision that quality from me. I was a precision machinist for 12 years and a dentist for 33. Attention to detail comes naturally, hopefully that helps.

Fred has forgot more about body work than most folks know. He swung by my shop one afternoon and I learned more in an afternoon than I did with all the you tubes combined. Send him a PM and he will become an invaluable resource to you. He is just a plain great guy! Heck my dog even likes him!

 

[Kent mosby]

You've got a DA, so that's a good start. Get some 45, 80, 150, 320 sanding discs. Start with the 45 and get the layers of paint and primer down until metal starts peeking through. Use the 80 to get it down to the metal. Now you can assess the situation. Any rust holes, where are the low spots, where are the high spots?
Do your metal work. Patch any holes (you'll need a MIG welder of you don't have one), pound up the low spots from the backside, pound down the high spots from the front side.
Now clean the metal, then clean it again, then spray the metal with epoxy primer (and only epoxy primer). EP is a waterproof sealer and the base for the filler work you will do next.
Get some 3M Platinum filler (part number is 11020 or something close). Mix it and lay it on just like drywall mud or tile grout. Just a medium layer will do, 99% of it will end up on the floor anyway. Sand with 120 (with a sanding block!!) crosshatch pattern, until it's level. Spray with 2K primer and evaluate your work. Most likely, there will be a couple more spots to touch up. You can use glaze putty or more filler. Respray those areas with 2K primer. Sand the entire area with 120, just light pressure.
Here is where opinions will vary. At this point I will shoot it with a 4K high build primer. Featherfill G2 is my go to. This is thick stuff that requires a 2.0 nozzle to spray out properly. Some say 1.8, I disagree. This primer will fill swirls, small scratches, and small pinholes. Sand this down with the 320.
Now you are ready to spray the paint. Personally, I always put down a layer of sealer before paint. Up to you. If you use sealer, sand with 400 before paint.

On the areas that already lookok good, you can sand down with the 320 until the clear coat starts to disappear. Then go back over with 400 and spray the new paint on it.

Are you going with single stage or base/clear? There's more discussion to be had, based on that answer.

Thanks for the thorough response. I am just beginning the process. Also, I am looking for pros and cons for each. Remember that as a beginner, easier would be better rather than a professional show quality car paint job

 

[ESP47]

Personally if I were you, I wouldn't waste the time and money on doing my own paint work unless I had plans to do at least a couple more cars sometime down the road. You'll wind up spending about the same amount on materials as you would have if a professional had done it and it'll probably come out worse than if you just paid someone to do it. It is very time consuming to even do fairly small jobs correctly.

But then again you don't get the personal satisfaction of doing it yourself if you take it in somewhere so it depends on what that is worth to you as well.

 

[Frodee]

Fred has forgot more about body work than most folks know. He swung by my shop one afternoon and I learned more in an afternoon than I did with all the you tubes combined. Send him a PM and he will become an invaluable resource to you. He is just a plain great guy! Heck my dog even likes him!

Your to kind John thanks. And yes I bribed your dog with enough treats to like me and not eat me. lol

 

[Frodee]

Personally if I were you, I wouldn't waste the time and money on doing my own paint work unless I had plans to do at least a couple more cars sometime down the road. You'll wind up spending about the same amount on materials as you would have if a professional had done it and it'll probably come out worse than if you just paid someone to do it. It is very time consuming to even do fairly small jobs correctly.

But then again you don't get the personal satisfaction of doing it yourself if you take it in somewhere so it depends on what that is worth to you as well.

Your right and couldn't have said it better.
I for one can't build an engine so I buy one already done because it's cheaper in the long run.

 

[Kent mosby]

I worked for this guy for a few years in the very early 80s, I think the videos are a little hokey but there is good information to be found.

All the paint techniques apply to non custom paints as well.

I watched the whole thing. That is a lot of work. Tremendous detail goes into it.

Your right and couldn't have said it better.
I for one can't build an engine so I buy one already done because it's cheaper in the long run.

Whether or not it is cheaper or not does not matter too much. This is my hobby (along with golf) and for me the journey is the enjoyment. The sense of accomplishment. I will begin by sanding down the passenger side panels and see the magnitude of the undertaking. If I do not have to replace panels, I will keep going on the prepping the car for paint. If the job gets too overwhelming, I will get professional help. There is no timetable at all to begin or to finish. I understand also that it would have been better to start with a bare shell and do the bodywork first. But, the car was not going to be a driver originally. Now that the other parts are finished I don't want to remove the drivetrain to do a proper job. The glass and exterior items will be removed but I do not want to remove the drivetrain and the interior if possible. If that is not possible,,,, UGH,,, I will face that soon enough.

 

[Frodee]

I watched the whole thing. That is a lot of work. Tremendous detail goes into it.



Whether or not it is cheaper or not does not matter too much. This is my hobby (along with golf) and for me the journey is the enjoyment. The sense of accomplishment. I will begin by sanding down the passenger side panels and see the magnitude of the undertaking. If I do not have to replace panels, I will keep going on the prepping the car for paint. If the job gets too overwhelming, I will get professional help. There is no timetable at all to begin or to finish. I understand also that it would have been better to start with a bare shell and do the bodywork first. But, the car was not going to be a driver originally. Now that the other parts are finished I don't want to remove the drivetrain to do a proper job. The glass and exterior items will be removed but I do not want to remove the drivetrain and the interior if possible. If that is not possible,,,, UGH,,, I will face that soon enough.

Hope it works well for you Kent I think you will do a fine job.

 

[Oldiron440]

The "details " are the difference between a good paint job and a great paint job and a drop dead gorgeous paint job.
The thing is how much are you willing to learn?

 

[CRUZE 418]

Is that a Dart? You have a lot of work ahead of you. '67--'69 Darts are one of the worst, the long flat sides. I have one, actually two of them. Only one looks good, the one that's never been wrecked or had any metal replaced. I will never redo the bad one, I'm 71, I would be dead by the time I got it right! In the end, a good long John, primer and guide coat will be your friend. After you get it down to metal, put your DA away , it will only cause you trouble. (Orbital sander. )
Good luck

 

[mopops]

My car was repainted before I got it. I am almost finished with all the mechanical work. Originally, it was going to be a street/strip car and I was ok with the paint. Now that our drag strip has closed, I am going to make it a driver. I want to redo the paint but have never painted before. One side the panels are nice and straight but the passenger side has seen obvious repairs before. I do not plan on making it a show car but I want it to look good.

There is not any visible rust anywhere. Where do I start to assess the damage, learn about prep and paint techniques? I like the color but I am open to change. I know that many others have done this before me. Help me follow in your footsteps. I like to study techniques so books, youtube or websites appreciated.View attachment 1715719839

local school teach auto body? craigs list ad might turn up a body man looking for extra work- if your gonna do it lacquer primers n paint are easier to use then enamels. this aught to light up your post ---- 50yr plus body man

 

[Kent mosby]

Is that a Dart? You have a lot of work ahead of you. '67--'69 Darts are one of the worst, the long flat sides. I have one, actually two of them. Only one looks good, the one that's never been wrecked or had any metal replaced. I will never redo the bad one, I'm 71, I would be dead by the time I got it right! In the end, a good long John, primer and guide coat will be your friend. After you get it down to metal, put your DA away , it will only cause you trouble. (Orbital sander. )
Good luck

73 scamp, anything would look better than this. I don't need a show car but would like to have it better than now.