Passon 5-speed

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Sure hope things pick up a bit... at that rate I'll get my tranny about March 2021!

Just kidding on that..... There is a reason I'm on the list and patiently waiting. I know the product will be worth the wait whenever it arrives!
 
Number 18 reporting the latest update. The Trans and shifter are in shipment, UPS tracking numbers indicate it should arrive here this Tuesday evening (5/27/14).

I have to take the 1870 the transmission is destined for to our biggest local Mopar car show on June 1st, but my car is down due to a fuel pump problem that left me stranded on the freeway on-ramp for 50 minutes a few weeks ago. I sent the pump in to be re-built, and I'm expecting it back from Product Engineering Tuesday of next week.

I still need to install a fresh set of plugs and a new cap and rotor this weekend for this season. The pump re-install should only take about 30 minutes, and I'll be back on the road for the Mopar Alley Show in Cupertino, CA at De Anza College - June 1st. Remember its NOT at Ohlone College this year!!!

The following weekend, I'll pull the stock numbers trans from the 1970, remove the scatter shield and Street Twin clutch, box the clutch and flywheel up to ship back to McLeod to be gone through and pull the Dana so I can take it down to the rear end shop and have them swap out the 3.54's and install the Spicer 3.73's. A few weeks later, I'll be breaking everything in, and trying to write up a decent post on the install and the driving impressions the gear and trans change make.

Sometime in between and beyond all that "work", I've got to finish building a stroker 408 for my '68 Barracuda convertible, retrofitting a built-up 200R4 to fit in the car and swapping in 3.91's in place of the 3.23's I'm currently running with a 727 and a tired EFI'd 5.9 Magnum.

I love having good projects to keep me deep in this hobby and doing what I have always dreamed of doing with my Mopars. I've been waiting 30 + years to do this kind of stuff.
 

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It's arrived this afternoon and is now in my garage. I've got a lot of work to do in the next few months. I bolted on the shifter pad using Loctite blue. I used a small file to dress both sides of the mounting bosses, just in case.

I took a comparison shot between the size of the Passon unit and the 200R4 automatic that's going to be shoehorned into my '68 a-body. Hate to9 state the obvious, but the Passon will have a scattershield in front of it and it will look much larger then.
 

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Is there such a thing as Transmission Envy???

Treblig

Treblig, you will know all about transmission envy when people hear your car shift into 4th, while staring at that stock shifter console wondering WTF?
 
dammit. i want one. so your number 18 huh? what is the line now? up in the hundreds? i shoulda got in line way back when. LOL
 
I talked to a guy who just got on the list and he said he was not sure of his number but that it was over 400.
 
I talked to a guy who just got on the list and he said he was not sure of his number but that it was over 400.

The highest cash offer for over $20k, and it will be on it's way to the buyer's shop. JK, LOL!
 
I'm sure the process will speed up over time, WITHOUT A LOSS IN QUALITY. These things take time, and experience in building will enhance it. If I could afford one, I sure would get in line, even now. Delivery times will improve. Have faith Mopar brethren!
 
The Passon install, rear end gear change, pulling the original numbers matching A833 for safe keeping and having the McLeod Street twin sent to the factor to be made like new again project has officially begun!

After staring at at this beautiful piece of art work Jamie created, I just couldn't get my mind around the aluminum case color, so I primed it with self etching primer, let it dry good, primed it with a light coat of regular primer, and with finish it with several medium coats of Cast Blast, cast iron finish, so it will look like my original. I'll post a picture of how it came out so you guys can decide for yourself.

I think I am going to have to put in the 1 inch Firm Feel front torsion bars, weld the lower control arm reinforcing plate and ad the Hotchkis adjustable strut rods to the car while its up in the air. It made such a tremendous difference in my 68, I can only categorize it as transforming. I have the stock HD big block/hemi bars in there now.

I started at the back valence and am slowly moving forward towards the trans. I hope to get the clutch out to McLeod before the end of the week.
 

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The Heck with that, I woulda left it bare. I'm gonna show mine off once it gets here. I ain't painting ****! LOL!
 
The Passon install, rear end gear change, pulling the original numbers matching A833 for safe keeping and having the McLeod Street twin sent to the factor to be made like new again project has officially begun!

After staring at at this beautiful piece of art work Jamie created, I just couldn't get my mind around the aluminum case color, so I primed it with self etching primer, let it dry good, primed it with a light coat of regular primer, and with finish it with several medium coats of Cast Blast, cast iron finish, so it will look like my original. I'll post a picture of how it came out so you guys can decide for yourself.

I think I am going to have to put in the 1 inch Firm Feel front torsion bars, weld the lower control arm reinforcing plate and ad the Hotchkis adjustable strut rods to the car while its up in the air. It made such a tremendous difference in my 68, I can only categorize it as transforming. I have the stock HD big block/hemi bars in there now.

I started at the back valence and am slowly moving forward towards the trans. I hope to get the clutch out to McLeod before the end of the week.


Personally, I like the cast iron look better than plain old aluminum, although it is a lighter shade of cast iron than some of the paints I've used to simulate it. It is a subtle difference, but it looks sweet. I added a couple of pics of the stock aluminum transmission at the bottom of the page as it arrived for easier comparison. I love the plate Jamie made on the front face of the trans. It's hard to see in this shot, but I'll get a better one today. It his signature plate. Cool!
 

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Looks like the biggest piece of crap in the world to me. Cause it ain't mine. lol

I think you made a good choice to paint it. Bare aluminum soaks up anything that comes its way and gets permanently stained.
 
Looks like the biggest piece of crap in the world to me. Cause it ain't mine. lol

I think you made a good choice to paint it. Bare aluminum soaks up anything that comes its way and gets permanently stained.

My buddy told me the same thing about his Kiesler. It's now permanently stained.
 
Just a quick update, I was 27 on the list and Jamie called me today! Got the remaining balanced paid and mine will be shippinging in the next couple of days!!!:burnout::burnout::burnout:
 
Great news. Post some photos when it arrives and for sure when it is installed. Thanks for the update.
 
Nice to see a company is actually delivering.
 
will somebody" PLEASE" get this tranny installed already and post a driving review! The suspence is killing me! Waiting for my call. Not sure where I am on the list. Just hope my credit card is paid off first. Lol. :burnout:
 
will somebody" PLEASE" get this tranny installed already and post a driving review! The suspence is killing me! Waiting for my call. Not sure where I am on the list. Just hope my credit card is paid off first. Lol. :burnout:


I'm trying. I was going to attempt to install my own new gear set (3.54's to 3.73's), but it would have been my first time doing it, and it is a Dana 60 to boot.. I chickened out at the last minute and brought the whole cleaned and drained rear end over to Mike at Rear End Specialties in Santa Clara, California. I had recently (5000 miles) had them go through the whole rear-end, installing new bearings and races, clutches and steels, they but reused the circa 1968 gears because they were beautiful. (yes, its a '68 b-body rear end for my e-body) I'm using Dr Diffs inset hanger kit with two driver's side 3200 lbs Supper stock Springs and no, the rear hanger doesn't his my valence. This springs are the perfect spring rate for a big block e-body, and I have tried at least a half a dozen "recommended" combinations. They never were satisfactory, but after listening to Dr Diff once again, my car now rides smooth, handles good and launches fiercely. Did I mention it rides better than most modern cars I've ridden in.

McLeod is officially in possession of my complete Street Twin and is going to fully rebuild it. I has some oil contamination on it and it STILL was hooking up.

I'm starting to suspect that the oil is coming from the pilot hole drilled in the back of the crank. I run one of those rollerized bearings, so I may use one of those old school fixes to get the weeping oil to stop. clean the hole out with carb cleaner, heat it a bit with one of those pizo torches to burn back any oil on its way out and clean it again, fill the depths of it with JB Weld and cap it with a Dorman plug, well short of the roller pilot bearing.

I'll also be checking every square inch of the rear of the motor for any other source of oil, although I had always assumed it was gear oil that was seeping from the original trans. In fact I know it was, but I am starting to suspect it may have had some small seepage out the pilot hole. I did some Google research and found out it does happen on occasion.

I may have to shorten the input shaft of the Passon 5-speed, (cringe) but I had to do that on my original trans many years ago because it hit inside there. The hole in the previous motors crank was not deep enough, or the scattershield installed depth was off. Replacement parts will be available if they are not already to restore it to it's prior uncut status should the need arise.

As soon as the clutch returns, Which will likely be next week. I will install the clutch, scattershield and stuff that beautiful 5 speed in its new home. Of course I have to break in the new rear-end gears and the Passon with mostly around town mileage. That could take a while. as its recommended to break the transmission in for one mile for every foot pound of torque you have with normal light street throttle.

Ok, I'm off to pick-up my rear end and get the paint touched up real nice under the back of the car.

How else could motor oil get into that location if it's not leaking there?
 
I'm trying. I was going to attempt to install my own new gear set (3.54's to 3.73's), but it would have been my first time doing it, and it is a Dana 60 to boot.. I chickened out at the last minute and brought the whole cleaned and drained rear end over to Mike at Rear End Specialties in Santa Clara, California. I had recently (5000 miles) had them go through the whole rear-end, installing new bearings and races, clutches and steels, they but reused the circa 1968 gears because they were beautiful. (yes, its a '68 b-body rear end for my e-body) I'm using Dr Diffs inset hanger kit with two driver's side 3200 lbs Supper stock Springs and no, the rear hanger doesn't his my valence. This springs are the perfect spring rate for a big block e-body, and I have tried at least a half a dozen "recommended" combinations. They never were satisfactory, but after listening to Dr Diff once again, my car now rides smooth, handles good and launches fiercely. Did I mention it rides better than most modern cars I've ridden in.

McLeod is officially in possession of my complete Street Twin and is going to fully rebuild it. I has some oil contamination on it and it STILL was hooking up.

I'm starting to suspect that the oil is coming from the pilot hole drilled in the back of the crank. I run one of those rollerized bearings, so I may use one of those old school fixes to get the weeping oil to stop. clean the hole out with carb cleaner, heat it a bit with one of those pizo torches to burn back any oil on its way out and clean it again, fill the depths of it with JB Weld and cap it with a Dorman plug, well short of the roller pilot bearing.

I'll also be checking every square inch of the rear of the motor for any other source of oil, although I had always assumed it was gear oil that was seeping from the original trans. In fact I know it was, but I am starting to suspect it may have had some small seepage out the pilot hole. I did some Google research and found out it does happen on occasion.

I may have to shorten the input shaft of the Passon 5-speed, (cringe) but I had to do that on my original trans many years ago because it hit inside there. The hole in the previous motors crank was not deep enough, or the scattershield installed depth was off. Replacement parts will be available if they are not already to restore it to it's prior uncut status should the need arise.

As soon as the clutch returns, Which will likely be next week. I will install the clutch, scattershield and stuff that beautiful 5 speed in its new home. Of course I have to break in the new rear-end gears and the Passon with mostly around town mileage. That could take a while. as its recommended to break the transmission in for one mile for every foot pound of torque you have with normal light street throttle.

Ok, I'm off to pick-up my rear end and get the paint touched up real nice under the back of the car.

How else could motor oil get into that location if it's not leaking there?


They were pushing me too....take your time and do it right!! You seem like a perfectionist like me. It's got to be the way you want it or you stop and fix it!!

treblig
 
There's a guy in my hometown here in Gilroy who has his car at Pacific Fabrication and I noticed he had one of these Passon 5 speeds installed. I wonder who he is, he's gotta be on here or moparts. I didn't ask for the owners name but he had a serious build going on. Very kool
 
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