Points to Electronic

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CudasKentA

CudasKentA

NatureBoy
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Kokomo IN.
Switched from points to electronic. Not running like it should. It starts fine and idles ok but accelaration is a joke. Need some pointers on dialing it in.
 
What kind of electronic ignition did you switch to? tmm
 
OldmanRick said:
Yep to Mike's question...

I'm so old school, I might just recommend putting the points dizzy back in...lol. :D
Click to expand...

If it ran better than yes,

Oldman I have a SBM dual point accel distributor, with the big cap, I don't know what cap fits it ??????????? Got it in a trade with a bunck of 6-pac stuff.
 
sireland67 said:
Oldman I have a SBM dual point accel distributor, with the big cap, I don't know what cap fits it ??????????? Got it in a trade with a bunck of 6-pac stuff.
Click to expand...

That's a really cool git Shawn. I have no idea of a cap number for it. I put a lot of Accel unit's in GM cars, but as far as the Mopar's it was either a Mallory or stock points dizzy's. I know what curves I liked, but as far as the workings of the dizzy, I always took my stuff to Maryland Perf. Center and let them tune it up to my specs on their dizzy machine. Maybe if you see some numbers on the body and post them, it will remind someone here what parts are used in it?
 
Shouldn't be much to dialing it in. What did you set the timing at? Did you set it by the total timing method or initial? I assume you disconnected the vacuum advance when setting the timing like you are supposed to?

Hey Sireland are you just needing a part # for that Dist. cap? If so I have one of those distributors out in the garage, I can look and see if it has a # on it
 
If you are using a factory electronic distributor you might want to check the reluctor gap i can't recall the exact spec but it's a few hundredths of an inch... also where did you get the ecu?
 
Are you giving it full 12 volts?......not the dropped-down ballast resistor voltage?
 
sireland67 said:
If it ran better than yes,

Oldman I have a SBM dual point accel distributor, with the big cap, I don't know what cap fits it ??????????? Got it in a trade with a bunck of 6-pac stuff.
Click to expand...

acell 8330 ..

or

Part Number: AL950 which can be bought at your local autozone...for 10 bucks

and the rotor is AL937
 
Sorry guys Im back. Bought the Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition Kit with vacuum advance distributor from Mancini.
 
Make sure you have a solid ground from your engine to the car. The ECU needs to be grounded good too. Electronic ignition won't work very well at all without a good ground.
 
From what I have heard, the dizzy you get in the package from Mancini's is set up more towards racing - not street. The air gap on the reluctor is .008" using a non-metallic feeler gauge. And as it was stated before - GOOD GROUNDING.
 
The MP orange boxes have had a lot of failures recently. I don't trust them. I've heard good things about the Revenator box.

The new MP distributors have an adjustable advance. You can adjust the total mechanical timing. I'd set your initial timing at 15 degrees BTDC. Then adjust the mechanical advance to give you a total of around 34.

Another thing is to make sure the timing mark on the balancer hasn't moved. The outer ring could have shifted which will give you false timing readings.
 
also make sure it has really good ground, without good ground it will run crappy and give all sorts of problems
 
bruceo2011 said:
From what I have heard, the dizzy you get in the package from Mancini's is set up more towards racing - not street. The air gap on the reluctor is .008" using a non-metallic feeler gauge. And as it was stated before - GOOD GROUNDING.
Click to expand...

I had one and the advance curve was set real lazy like you would for a totally stock engine. Had to do what Burdar suggested and adjust the advance curve for a much more aggressive profile so it'd run decent in my engine that was cammed up. Mine had issues with the orange box (random misfiring) like so many have. Replaced it with a MSD and it ran great.
 
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