Porting 596 Heads

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trigger_andy

trigger_andy

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Well, Ive been reading up on all the porting threads and thought Id give it a go myself with a set of 596's I had lying around.

Ive only got so far on the first Head and thought Id post some pics of the first two ports and I can only get so far in with the shafts I have just now.

Any and all criticism welcome along with advice. :)

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The vertical line ,from the pic, shows where the guide should point. The horizontal is where to trim guide height. The oval is where to widen or grind straight, but dont go into the tall portion of the floor/shor side too much, stay in the oval, and blend it. Point the guide to the middle of the port window.
Trim the guide about 3/8.
You've already removed the guide kink enough, do those things i mention and it will pick up substantially. Have fun!

View attachment 1715108383

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MOPAROFFICIAL said:
The vertical line ,from the pic, shows where the guide should point. The horizontal is where to trim guide height. The oval is where to widen or grind straight, but dont go into the tall portion of the floor/shor side too much, stay in the oval, and blend it. Point the guide to the middle of the port window.
Trim the guide about 3/8.
You've already removed the guide kink enough, do those things i mention and it will pick up substantially. Have fun!

View attachment 1715108383

View attachment 1715108406
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I am not getting this. Can you stupid it up some more?
 
RustyRatRod said:
I am not getting this. Can you stupid it up some more?
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He wants the OP to move the common wall where it meets the floor over to the common wall side more. That's the oval.

He wants to trim the guide height down. If it's much over .500 lift or the lobe is an aggressive lobe I give up a bit of flow to help keep the guide from moving around. That's the perpendicular line.

He also wants the OP to move the vein in front of the guide over to the center of the port. That's the parallel line.

I *THINK* that is what MO is saying. I agree with it. Except maybe guide boss length. If the lift is low and the lobe is slow then you can shorten it up.
 
Ok, I think I get it now. Thanks.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Ok, I think I get it now. Thanks.
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Don't even lay it back much at the straight side short turn. Leave a faint angle at the top of the shot turn, the factory casting already does it , blemd to it, pronounce it if need be... "center to dog leg side of short side" is where you can see it in the casting.
 
Great pictures Andy. Great help M.O. It looks like there is still a little step off of the seat. If you can get that part of the wall perpendicular to the valve seat as deep into the port as possible. Keep it square and straight to the seat. Don't undermine it. Keep it straight like a tube.
 
Ditto. Great pics. Much better.
 
Bodyperson said:
Great pictures Andy. Great help M.O. It looks like there is still a little step off of the seat. If you can get that part of the wall perpendicular to the valve seat as deep into the port as possible. Keep it square and straight to the seat. Don't undermine it. Keep it straight like a tube.
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Remember the head bolt goes through there, though it can be tubed if you go through the casting.:)
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Rememb

Remember the head bolt goes through there, though it can be tubed if you go through the casting.
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So your saying he went as far as he should go? Hes not that far off. I didn't go through on my J heads
 
Bodyperson said:
So your saying he went as far as he should go? Hes not that far off. I didn't go through on my J heads
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No what I'm saying is go at it, but keep that in mind. You can get more flow till you go through the wall into the head bolt hole. Been there.
 
Wish I was in Cali for personal lessons on some garbage iron I have.....
 
Seats can help or hurt you on the exhaust.
If they cut too deep or the cutter removes a ledge above the cut, or how it wipes out a lot of that little ledge on the outside short turn ... None the less the ex short side has it's taller side, inside ssr, that comes off the wall, and with grinding can be exploited to deliver substantial flow increases.
From the seat... light radius, almost minute, then straight up and just smooth the top where it turns into floor. On the tall side that angles upward and becomes the wall....port straight up off the seat on that side of the bowl and then widen the ssr width by grinding into that wall, same idea as the intake near the head bolt. You'e creating more ssr. Open the far side bowl almost to the seat, grind the guide flat to the roof, don't gasket match exit, grind roof kink some, beware of water....then just polish it all.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Seats can help or hurt you on the exhaust.
If they cut too deep or the cutter removes a ledge above the cut, or how it wipes out a lot of that little ledge on the outside short turn ... None the less the ex short side has it's taller side, inside ssr, that comes off the wall, and with grinding can be exploited to deliver substantial flow increases.
From the seat... light radius, almost minute, then straight up and just smooth the top where it turns into floor. On the tall side that angles upward and becomes the wall....port straight up off the seat on that side of the bowl and then widen the ssr width by grinding into that wall, same idea as the intake near the head bolt. You'e creating more ssr. Open the far side bowl almost to the seat, grind the guide flat to the roof, don't gasket match exit, grind roof kink some, beware of water....then just polish it all.
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:eek: Think I'll wait for pictures, with ugly black lines.:)
 
Thank you all for the advice and help so far guys. :) M.O, your pictures are particularly helpful and gives me something to work to now.

Out of interest where would you say I am now regarding CMF over a stock 596 without going any further?
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Seats can help or hurt you on the exhaust.
If they cut too deep or the cutter removes a ledge above the cut, or how it wipes out a lot of that little ledge on the outside short turn ... None the less the ex short side has it's taller side, inside ssr, that comes off the wall, and with grinding can be exploited to deliver substantial flow increases.
From the seat... light radius, almost minute, then straight up and just smooth the top where it turns into floor. On the tall side that angles upward and becomes the wall....port straight up off the seat on that side of the bowl and then widen the ssr width by grinding into that wall, same idea as the intake near the head bolt. You'e creating more ssr. Open the far side bowl almost to the seat, grind the guide flat to the roof, don't gasket match exit, grind roof kink some, beware of water....then just polish it all.
Click to expand...

Ive already been doing some work on the exhaust side and I'll come back to that when I have the first two Intakes Im working on where you guys think are 'good enough'. Unfortunately Ive already gasket matched the Exhaust Ports. :(
 
Bodyperson said:
Great pictures Andy. Great help M.O. It looks like there is still a little step off of the seat. If you can get that part of the wall perpendicular to the valve seat as deep into the port as possible. Keep it square and straight to the seat. Don't undermine it. Keep it straight like a tube.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. Im struggling to visualize this though.
 
Oh d
RAMM said:
Where it is marked "Grind " in red--I would caution that there is water under the "Huber hump". You cant square that S.S. area up that much. Ask me how I know. J.Rob
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Oh damn! I’ve already started attacking the “Humber Hump”. Best I stop now then. I must be close to 3/8”.

Ok, why can’t you square the SS area that much?:p
 
trigger_andy said:
Oh d


Oh damn! I’ve already started attacking the “Humber Hump”. Best I stop now then. I must be close to 3/8”.

Ok, why can’t you square the SS area that much?:p
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Already told you--water is under there. Be careful. J.Rob
 
RAMM said:
Already told you--water is under there. Be careful. J.Rob
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Ah, I was looking at the other Red grinding area on the valve guide. I thought that was what you where referring to as the Humber hump. Ive not started on the area where the water jacket is.

Any idea what I’d be flowing with just the work I’ve done so far?

If I don’t bugger these heads they will be going on my ‘73 340. Fairly stock apart from a Weiand Action Plus, 670cmf Holley Street Avenger and Headers.

Eventually they would go on my other ‘72 340 that’s getting built with 10.5:1 pistons and a 274 Comp Cams Cam Shaft. It’s getting 2.02” J Heads but if these would out perform them then I might as well swap them out. :)
 
You can grind what I designated in red, you grind it following the floors approaching ramp , you dont just grinding straight down to seat from there. I'ee never hit the water that's under the ssr hump doing this. Tall and proud, barely leaned back.
I'll have to make a video, with a little camera so that people who say it can't be done can be shown what I'm trying to put into words.

I believe some here know exactly what I'm saying.
 
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