Possible NA /6 build: tips/advise/opinions wanted

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maikell77

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I am beginning to map out a future project. I want to build up an early Barracuda, euro style. To nail that I think an inline 6 is the way to go. From what I have seen weight on an early barracuda is in the 2800lbs range. To get the performance I am looking for I want to get around 220-250hp. The engine will be mated to a manual Trans and the rear end will be geared in the 3.50-3.91 range. This will be a car to take on back roads, auto cross, track days, and the occasional strip trip. With all that in mind fuel economy isn't an issue, and power brakes will more than likely not be used, so vacuum is not an issue.

All that out of the way here is what I am thinking:

Flat top pistons, probably cast
Recondition the stock rods, balance rotating assy.
ARP head stud kit
Deck block/head to get 10.5:1 compression
Upgraded valve springs
Mild port job
Gasket match the intake (pinned)
Full length headers
Triple Webber 45 DCOE manifold setup
220/220 @ .050 duration cam, .444/.444 lift

I'm trying to keep this build somewhat to a budget. Will the cast pistons hold up, I think they will? My main question is this, is this build anywhere close to meeting my goals? If not where do I need to adjust to make it happen?
 
You'll hear the name "Clifford" come up, but be very careful before you decide to spend any money with Clifford. They have a long and ugly reputation for being a bunch of clowns; see for example here, here, here, here, and here. Much of what they sell is inaccurately described, and a lot of it is not even slightly cost-effective. The good news is that you don't need to go to Clifford to get hot rod parts for slant-6s; there are lots of other, better options. See for example Dutra Duals and header options discussed in this thread and this one, Erson custom cams, HEI ignition upgrade, Mike Jeffreys windage trays, Hurricane intakes, other exotic intakes. Hi-perf engine buildup here, high-perf parts and build info here.

If you're building a Euro curve-carver, put in good lights and brakes and seat belts and such. See here.
 
That's the plan. Right now I plan on starting with an engine build before really digging into the car.

The overall plan for the car includes modern seat, seat belts, disc brakes all the way around, adjustable control arms up front and then possibly a 4 link rear. The goal is a good handling, great stopping car that has good power, but very different.

I'm very early in the process right now, trying to build up a game plan before I start lightening my wallet.
 
Keith Black sells a nice hyper piston for the 2.2 Chrysler 4 cylinder engine that works in the 225 with the 198 connecting rod.....or the K1 connecting rod which is what I am going to use. Rods are a little pricey.....but you get what you pay for. By the time you recondition stock rods and add good rod bolts and bush them for floating pins, you are at the same cost for the good rods. The KB239 will get you in the 10:1 range with the 198 rod real quick. I have less than 275 bucks in my pistons. They are real nice.
 
maikell77 said:
I am beginning to map out a future project. I want to build up an early Barracuda, euro style. To nail that I think an inline 6 is the way to go. From what I have seen weight on an early barracuda is in the 2800lbs range. To get the performance I am looking for I want to get around 220-250hp. The engine will be mated to a manual Trans and the rear end will be geared in the 3.50-3.91 range. This will be a car to take on back roads, auto cross, track days, and the occasional strip trip. With all that in mind fuel economy isn't an issue, and power brakes will more than likely not be used, so vacuum is not an issue.

All that out of the way here is what I am thinking:

Flat top pistons, probably cast
Recondition the stock rods, balance rotating assy.
ARP head stud kit
Deck block/head to get 10.5:1 compression
Upgraded valve springs
Mild port job
Gasket match the intake (pinned)
Full length headers
Triple Webber 45 DCOE manifold setup
220/220 @ .050 duration cam, .444/.444 lift

I'm trying to keep this build somewhat to a budget. Will the cast pistons hold up, I think they will? My main question is this, is this build anywhere close to meeting my goals? If not where do I need to adjust to make it happen?
Click to expand...
Ok You are on the right track.
I would use the K1/Wiseco package of rods/Forged pistons with the new style metric rings. This gives you a " 198/2.2" setup. Cost is under $1K shipped with ARP fasteners. Weight is GREATLY reduced as well.
Next get your self a Erson 280/270 RDP cam. The slant likes about 8-12 degrees more Intake Duration.
Edge Converter BUILT FOR A SLANT 6
and a SG 3.55
My02.
Frank:toothy10:
 
yea that cam is way to small...

more like 240-248 @ .050 dur, 475-.510 valve lift (rockers 1.4), and a 105-108 LSA

run the 3.91's and 2x for the edge converter...

and port it... you need everything you can get for flow...
 
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