Power everywhere, but no spark

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HemiTM

HemiTM

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Went outside to start the Dart today and all it did was turn over, no spark. So I pulled the #1 plug to confirm my suspicions. The only spark I get is when I first turn the key. I get one spark and thats it. Then when I release the key I sometimes get another spark. I`m stumped. Could it be the switch in the column? I was thinking if it is I am going to switch to a toggle switch for the ignition and a push button to start the car. Does anyone have a wiring diagram on how to do this?
 
Check the ammeter gauge. My Duster had the same symptoms a while back. it was the post on the gauge was burned up. I ended up running a wire from my alternator post to the positive battery post bypassing the gauge until I bought a replacement gauge.
 
I also had a problem like this it was a loose coil wire bad end put on it.
 
HemiTM said:
Going to try hot wiring it in the morning. If that works I will know its the switch.
Click to expand...

Sorry, but no, you won't. Might be the switch, connectors, wiring, bulkhead connector, or maybe the linkage OPERATING the switch.

HemiTM said:
I am going to switch to a toggle switch for the ignition and a push button to start the car. Does anyone have a wiring diagram on how to do this?
Click to expand...

Not trying to make you angry here, but this is a REAL stupid way to fix a problem

WHAT ARE you using for an igniton, IE points, Mopar ECU, MSD, etc?

You need to learn to troubleshoot, we'll be glad to help. You need a meter and a 12v test lamp. Buy 'em both at any parts store for less than 25 bucks. I was just in O'Reillys the other night, and they have a digi meter for 17 bucks

You have three separate circuits coming from the ignition switch during start:

Traditionally yellow, hot during "start" energises the start relay

Traditionally brown is hot during start, bypasses the ballast resistor, and supplies hot 12V for start, this goes to the coil side of the ballast

Traditionally dark blue is "ignition run" supplies the switch side of the ballast resistor during engine run

All of these circuits go through the bulkhead connector, the connector at the bottom of the column, and on older dash ignition cars, the connector at the back of the switch.

ALL these points, including the switch, are a source of failure,

BUT FIRST you need to figure out if it really is or is NOT getting battery power to the ignition, or whether it is a problem IN the ignition system itself.

So turn the ignition switch to "run" engine off. Take your meter and measure the voltage (if you still have a ballast) at the "dark blue." You should have VERY close to battery voltage, within 1/2 volt.

Then, clip the meter to the coil side of the ballast, and prop up the meter so you can see it while operating the key. Twist the key to "start" so the engine cranks and read the meter. Move the meter probe to the battery and do this again. Both these readings should be close to each other, and ABOVE 10.5 volts.

If the two tests above prove OK, this means that your ignition is getting voltage, and the problem is right there at the ignition system.

We still need to know what you are running for a system??

DO YOU have a shop manual? Wiring diagram?

Download a free factory manual here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download

"Alternative" diagrams from My Mopar:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

Diagrams are in two parts:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1971/71DartA.JPG

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1971/71DartB.JPG
 
Is there a noise suppression condenser connected to the negative side of the coil? If there is, disconnect it. If it goes bad, it can ground out the ignition.
 
torquehouse said:
Is there a noise suppression condenser connected to the negative side of the coil? If there is, disconnect it. If it goes bad, it can ground out the ignition.
Click to expand...

That condenser is not connected to the neg. side of the coil. It is always connected the positive side. If it DOES short, you will have "smoke."
 
67DART273....No offense taken. Car was running fine. Went out to start it today, was going to load it on the trailer and take it to the track. No go. Very frustrated.

Car has a Mopar ECU. I have tried two boxes today, I always carry a back up along with a back up coil. Tomorrow morning I will use the test light to see if power is getting through the bulk head connector. Replaced the ignition switch in the column about 6 months ago.

Thanks for your help.
 
OK. Be sure to see what it's getting for voltage, and check your reluctor gap in the distributor.
 
HemiTM said:
I was thinking if it is I am going to switch to a toggle switch for the ignition and a push button to start the car. Does anyone have a wiring diagram on how to do this?
Click to expand...

The PO of my car ran a push button start switch, though the key still needs to be in the on position. All I could think of when I was looking at the car was, why would you do such a thing? Why didn't you find the problem and fix it rather than waste time and energy bypassing the system? And what else am I going to find now that I know how you go about repairing your car? So in a nutshell, don't do it. Find the problem, fix the problem. That is always the best advice. Finding the problem can be damn frustrating sometimes, but it's worth it to do the job right.
 
67Dart273 said:
You need to learn to troubleshoot, we'll be glad to help. You need a meter and a 12v test lamp. Buy 'em both at any parts store for less than 25 bucks. I was just in O'Reillys the other night, and they have a digi meter for 17 bucks.

X2

A man after my own heart. Find the problem, fix the problem. Easier said than done, but you will find lots of help for the asking.
Click to expand...
 
Put a ballast resistor on it.
 
I had a neighbor come and help me. We have power EVERYWHERE, every connection and ground looks good. I even used a coil my neighbor had. That make three coils and 2 ECU boxes. No spark. I have tried bypassing the key switch. Had the tester light under the dash making sure that when the key is turning over that power is going to the proper places. Nothing. Suggestions?
 
Did you ever check the distributor reluctor gap?

You say "there's power everywhere," but HOW MUCH?

HOW MUCH voltage is getting to the coil WHEN CRANKING?

(Measure right at the coil, and use the KEY to crank)

There is only so much stuff it can be

You must have power (voltage) and ENOUGH of it

You must have a good coil, ballast, and ECU, and distributor

The gap in the distributor must be close enough to trigger

(Did you check the output of the distributor? Put your meter on low AC volts, and hook it to the disconnected distributor connector. You should get 1V ac when cranking

How about something REAL SIMPLE? Did you eliminate the coil wire? Check the spark RIGHT AT the coil by using a grounded (clip lead) with a screwdriver probe. Hold it just right at the top of the coil tower entrance.
 
(How about something REAL SIMPLE? Did you eliminate the coil wire? Check the spark RIGHT AT the coil by using a grounded (clip lead) with a screwdriver probe. Hold it just right at the top of the coil tower entrance. )

That was the next thing I was going to suggest.
A lot of times it could be simple like a coil wire.
 
Here are the results of todays testing.

Reluctor gap was at .023. Reset to .008

Battery at 12.5

Coil with clips on + and -
Key on = 2.8
Cranking = 3.5

Ballast
Dark Blue = 10.9

Coil side of ballast
Key on = 4.7
Cranking = 9.6

I was unable to check the distributor. I only had one set of hands.
 
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