Pressure Regulating Valve - How to Test??

[mydart270]

hi and hello:

anybody know how to test the "gold colored" Pressure Regulating Valve (PRV) on the bench? Its installed in a 1968 Dodge Dart 270/SL-6. How about testing in the car? I know the switch connector (black in connector with a terminal connection on the top) provides the "ground connection" thru the dash brake light. How do I know the PRV is correctly working and the internal piston is correctly centered??

Thx guys. I am attempting to bleed the brakes to insure brakes are properly working Thought I would understand if the PRV is functioning. It looks like the original so install a new one??

Thx....A Body Forum is the best.

 

[Dana67Dart]

If you are talking about testing the proportioning valve, you would need 2 pressure gauges, And some fittings, it would be easier to test on the car, put one guage on the input side of the valve and one on the output side

When you press on the brake pedal, the input side should read higher than the output side. ( Like 1000 psi in = 100 psi out. Just numbers I pulled out of my but)


For brake warning light:

Off the car
You may be able to take a small rod and insert it into one side of the valve and manually press the piston to one side.
A multi meter measuring resistance will tell you the spool has moved and the switch is good.

Air pressure would work too.

On the car:
Open a front or rear bleeder and press the brake pedal. With the key in run you should see the bulb light up,

Blead the brakes as normal and assuming the warning light spool has centering springs it should go out. If it is still on open the rear bleeder and slowly press on the brake pedal till the light goes out and close the bleeder.

A multi meter measuring resistance will tell you the spool has moved and the switch is good.


That's my 2 cents and how I would approach it.

 

[Krooser]

Never, never, ever buy a new valve. They are junk...I mean JUNK!!!!

Did I mention they are junk?

 

[mydart270]

Never, never, ever buy a new valve. They are junk...I mean JUNK!!!!

Did I mention they are junk?

OK ....junk they are. Here is my problem.

The front cavity of my M/C has very little fluid due to me opening the bleeder valve on the L/R. I attached a multi-meter and thought i would see "zero ohms" or a short due to the center piston in the safety switch moving and causing a short to ground. Unfortunately nothing, Do I have a bad safety sw? Fluid level in the M/C is just above the two open ports. Safety sw is original. In Line has them for $79.00. Might get one.