Priming the oil

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RAT ROD AL

RAT ROD AL

MOPAR ARCHEOLOGIST - one parts hoard at a time!
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Getting ready to rebuild my slanty. I have always primed the oil system on my V8s through the dist drive hole with a long hex shaft. What is the best way on a slant 6? Thanks for any advice.
 
There is no direct equivalent to the V8 procedure. Instead: remove oil pump cover plate. Pack gerotor cavities with vaseline. Use oil squirt can or funnel and bottle to pour oil down centre tube of oil pump (obvs filter must be removed; if your pump has a standpipe with check valve, use a slim screwdriver to hold the valve open as you pour). Use appropriate oil viscosity for first startup, maximum 5w30. Crank engine without spark plugs before installing plugs and attempting startup.
 
only way I have ever seen to prime a slant oil pump involves having the front cover & t chain off, pan temporarily installed and using a bolt to spin the cam.
way more work & mess than its ever worth. Dan's advice is the best I have seen on this, only change for me is I use Lubriplate in place of the Vaseline.
 
I don't recommend packing the oil pump "full". Just enough to seal the rotors, so the pump can pull a vacuum. I have seen a fully packed pump not be able to "push" the vasoline through the pump. Drove me nuts as to why I couldn't get pressure. Actually what I do is put oil in a container that can be pressurized (I use a old freon tank) put oil in the tank, connect the tank to the oil pressure gauge port on the pump. Pressurize the tank, and spin the engine on the starter, with the spark plugs out.
Or if I'm lazy (which happens more and more) Just spin the engine with the starter, and hit the ignition.
 
Ditto. I connected a small garden sprayer to the oil pressure switch port (added a tee for future dash gage). Pumped it up w/ a quart and held the trigger down w/ a spring clamp. The next morning, the oil was gone from the sprayer. That was my 383 engine, but should work on a slant.
 
Bear in mind the factory didn't fiddlefutz around with any steps like this. Oil and filter got installed, engine got started, and that's it.
 
slantsixdan said:
Bear in mind the factory didn't fiddlefutz around with any steps like this. Oil and filter got installed, engine got started, and that's it.
Click to expand...
Yea that's probably what I'll do is just Jiss up all the good parts with some slickem and go for it. Thanks guys.
 
Also remember that the filter is the first thing the pump sees. If you start with the filter REMOVED, and a pan under, the pump is having an "easy time" as it is working against an open port. It should take about "one second" (maybe 3 LOL) of cranking to get oil out the filter mount. Then fill the filter and go from there

If you REALLY wanted to get inventive, I guess you could come up with a modified remote filter mount and inject oil into the system from the outside. As long as everything is properly "pre" lubed there is no real need for that extreme
 
Jadaharabi said:
How about using an old distributor remove the drive gear hook the top to a drill and spin it?
Click to expand...
The pump is directly geared to the cam, the dizzy has nothing to do with driving the pump, only shares using the same gear on the cam itself.
To the OP, I blueprint every pump I install, use an anerobic sealant on the mating surfaces, and "prime" them with a drizzle of STP/Motor Honey etc., and give a few hand turns before installing. I fill filters about 50% (if practicable), and install, messy on a slanty.
My "Killer6" got a remote filter kit, and put the filter open end up, accessible thru" the "K" in the K-frame.
 
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