Problems going back in to gear after..

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MAPS

MAPS

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Hello
I have a small block 340 4 speed, when the car first starts up it will leave fine but after running for 20 40 mins has big problems trying to get back into gear.(1st or 2nd)
Any ideas or reason why?
Thank you.
 
What oil is in the transmission. Most run ATF, I found on older transmissions I either go 80w90 or a mixture of both when they get noisy and hard to shift.

You could have a simple issue like the clutch not fully disengaging or synchros and bearings are worn out which leads to other issues.
 
What happens when it's hot when you try to put it in reverse? If there's a crunch/grind, your clutch is likely to be dragging.
 
Sorry I hd not be on for a spell, health issues but today i was at the transmission place and he was saying something about the "bronze".... gears? That may need changing.
Many times when I put the car in reverse you hear it grind like it's not going in or goes in but makes the sound.
Lastly the problem with it not going into 1st or second was when it gets a little hot I wanted to make sure the tranny had oil abs that's why I was there and it's full.
He said it's the gears of in not mistaken, 3rd had problems last year but it's slowly becoming to other gears... at low rpms it will go into 3rd much easier than if I m at 5 500 rpms... but it will miss 3rd at times at regular speeds as well but not as often.
Thank you guys
 
Have you adjusted the freeplay/clutch-departure* when hot?
Are you running a Full-synthetic oil**
Like already said, if the clutch is dragging; when the car is stopped, the brass cannot synchronize . When the oil is cold (regular SAE 75/90 NLG) is viscous enough to drag the cluster to a stop; but as it heats up, it can no longer do it.
Reset your clutch departure and it will be fine.
Slantys have a different pedal ratio than V8s so if your car is a V8 (10.5/10.95" clutch) but was originally a slanty (9.5" clutch) and the pedal seems awful hard to push down, now you know why.

* Clutch departure is how far the Pressure Plate pulls off the clutch disc. For three-finger clutches you need about .080. Diaphragm clutches MAY be able to get away with a lil less.
The way to check this is to first reset your freeplay to about 1 inch or a lil less. Then have a helper push the pedal down , while you install two feelers (.080) as close to 180 degrees apart, thru the PP windows. Once they are in there, have the helper back off the pedal a bit to put a squeeze on the feelers. Then , while you are tugging on the feelers, have the helper slowly push the pedal down, again and ask him to stop when the feelers are released. I like this to happen long BEFORE the pedal gets to the floor; but whatever the distance is, that is how far, AT LEAST, that you will have to push the pedal down.

**BTW; IMO;
Full-Synthetic fluid is TOO slippery for most A833s . If you have some in yours, I highly recommend to flush it out and go back to NON-Synthetic; standard EP-oil like a 75/90 ( I think NLG) which does NOT have any additives for a Sure-Grip/LSD/posi/ whatever.
At one time I really tried to make my A833 to be Synthetic-Friendly. I tried everything I knew how to do. I had that trans out several times in the same week, twice on the same day! Nothing really worked, So I put the 75/90 in it and BadaBoom! , it now shifts like lightning.
Some guys say it works in theirs, but they haven't seen mine shift; so IDK, lol
 
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I don't remember what kind of pressure plate the OP has, but Centerforce recommends .030 departure for their Dual-Friction disc and matching PP. The finger ratios are very different due to the Belleville spring mechanism vs. the Borg & Beck.
 
Have to adjusted the shift linkage?

If not, this would be a good time.
 
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