Project Midnight Swinger

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I'd go low buck rebuild with what you've got and toss it back together. It's a snowball like you said. You've gotta establish a stopping point. Pistons, rings, bearings, basic machine work and run the *****. You can always build something else "bigger and better" later when the car is still on the road being enjoyed.
 
That’s my dilemma, to do it right I need to get the crank ground,rods resized and balance the rotating assembly.

It’s the same cost to do that amount of work to a 400, or even a 440. Since I’m building a motor I might as well stroke it…you know the drill.

When I first got the 383 I was under the impression that it was a rebuilt to spec HP 383. It ended up having low compression pistons, and I think this rebuild was done in somebody’s backyard by a novice.

I’m definitely at cross roads.
then at least take the crank to be measured/polished? also what is the intended use for the car? if it's primarily a street car the 383 will be more than you'll 'need' even if it's less than you'd ideally 'want'. we all tend to get greedy when planning an engine build and then don't use half of the performance available to us. seems a waste to me and only done for bragging rights, lol. if ultimately you do want 'big' power it'll mean a 400/440 block to start and saving for a big power build. you may as well build the 383 for now, you never know it most likely will be enough. if not at least you already have the big block swap parts already sat there. oh, and someone will buy the 383 when the time comes too. at least you'll be out driving rather than saving for the 'big' power build while looking at the 'dead' car with no motor sat in the garage.
neil.
 
then at least take the crank to be measured/polished? also what is the intended use for the car? if it's primarily a street car the 383 will be more than you'll 'need' even if it's less than you'd ideally 'want'. we all tend to get greedy when planning an engine build and then don't use half of the performance available to us. seems a waste to me and only done for bragging rights, lol. if ultimately you do want 'big' power it'll mean a 400/440 block to start and saving for a big power build. you may as well build the 383 for now, you never know it most likely will be enough. if not at least you already have the big block swap parts already sat there. oh, and someone will buy the 383 when the time comes too. at least you'll be out driving rather than saving for the 'big' power build while looking at the 'dead' car with no motor sat in the garage.
neil.
Solid advice, and you are right. I’m going to take everything to the machine shop. I’ll tell him I want the head work done, and have him inspect the crank and rods and advise me on what to do.

If I can pull this combo off I’m thinking it’s going to be 400-425 HP easy. More than enough for a street car.

I just want it to sound like the intro to Hot For Teacher at idle, snap necks in 1st and do massive burn outs.
 
Yeah, something went through the oil. My guess is whatever broke out of the intake bolt threads on those 906 heads probably didn't get cleaned out and happened after the build at some point.
You're right to be concerned and taking it to the machine shop. Too bad you weren't in Washington I would have liked to have helped you out on that stuff.
For putting money into an engine that's going to be up to you, does it look like the heads will work on the 383, will the valves clear the bores ?
So far everything looks good, and from what I’m reading the bore shrouding isn’t and issue unless I was .600+ on the life. Luckily I got these heads from a FABO member @Red_Duster and he ran them on his 383 with no issues.
 
I'd go low buck rebuild with what you've got and toss it back together. It's a snowball like you said. You've gotta establish a stopping point. Pistons, rings, bearings, basic machine work and run the *****. You can always build something else "bigger and better" later when the car is still on the road being enjoyed.
I really thought I had a handle on that, this was just supposed to be a slap it in a run motor.

I am glad I tore it down though. There’s no way it had more than 7 to 1 compression, it would have been a dog if I ran out how I got it. It definitely would’ve been a dog with a .528 cam and a single plane intake with the big carb.

I’m going to trust the machinist to give me an honest assessment of what I should do. My budget will limit everything in the end. Hopefully he agrees with what I think needs to be done and I can get this motor done right.
 
You would be drivin down the road by now if you had followed some of our advice. Oh well.
 
You would be drivin down the road by now if you had followed some of our advice. Oh well.
Not happily with the 2bbl 383 cam,and pistons .09665 down in the hole with 86 cc combustion chambers(7.6:1). The motor was about to smoke the #5 rod bearing too.

I’m glad I did it the right way and tore it down. It sucks I found a can of worms, but I’m happy I didn’t run it as is.

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Not happily with the 2bbl 383 cam,and pistons .09665 down in the hole with 86 cc combustion chambers(7.6:1). The motor was about to smoke the #5 rod bearing too.

I’m glad I did it the right way and tore it down. It sucks I found a can of worms, but I’m happy I didn’t run it as is.

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Yeah you couldn't have all that. I don't blame you.
 
Yeah you couldn't have all that. I don't blame you.
It’s was very disheartening, and I sent out a mopey text to @MOPARMAGA who promptly talked some sense in to me!

I’m glad I got the motor for free, I would have been sick to buy a “HP 383” and get what I did.

On the bright side, it will be done right, and now i have 4-6 weeks to get everything else done while I wait for the machine work.

I’m going to shift my focus to getting the 4 speed hump installed and removing all the rust and scale from the interior and cover everything with kilmat. Once that is done I can start to rewire the car.

@mopowers is helping me set up the 8 3/4 which will be installed with the MP .75” offset kit.

Once the motor is back from the machine shop I can build it, install it and finish the 4 speed install. After that all I will need is a driveshaft and some fresh gas and it’s party time.

Getting close

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re the 4 speed hump, when i fitted one to my valiant i bolted it in for better access to shift rods etc. i just put nutserts all the way round the opening i'd cut and bolted the hump down with a foam seal. i like serviceability though so it's up to you. :thumbsup:
neil.
 
re the 4 speed hump, when i fitted one to my valiant i bolted it in for better access to shift rods etc. i just put nutserts all the way round the opening i'd cut and bolted the hump down with a foam seal. i like serviceability though so it's up to you. :thumbsup:
neil.
Sounds like a great idea.Do you have a picture of how that looks? How big does the hole really need to be?
 
Bringing this Pig back to life. 489 case, 1 gallon purple power. 3.5 gallons of hot soapy water. I’m going to let it sit for 24 hours and then scrub the crap out of it and hit it with a pressure washer.

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Bringing this Pig back to life. 489 case, 1 gallon purple power. 3.5 gallons of hot soapy water. I’m going to let it sit for 24 hours and then scrub the crap out of it and hit it with a pressure washer.

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I little not so known fact, the power is in the suds, my old Marine boss told me so lol
But yep it does. You'll have plenty of suds when you spray that sucker off, do u have air to dry it off ?
 
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I little not so known fact, the power is in the suds, my old Marine boss told me so lol
But yep it does. You'll have plenty of suds when you spray that sucker off, do u have air to dry it off ?
Yes, I have heated air even! I saved an old dog/pet dryer from the scrap pile and I can crank up the heat.
 
Well she is all gussied up for her appointment with the machinist tomorrow. I got the gasket surfaces cleaned, pulled the oil and freeze plugs and ran a 240 grit dingle ball hone through the cylinders. Gave it a quick driveway bath, and oiled it up. Hopefully it gets a clean bill of health.

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Sounds like a great idea.Do you have a picture of how that looks? How big does the hole really need to be?
in my build thread on here. i laid the hump on the tunnel, drew round it and cut the hole about an inch smaller all round. bigger hole means better access, as long as the hump covers it you're good.
neil.
schroll down here to see pics
 
First picture is just pulled from the solution after 24 hours, it did a great job stripping the dirt and grime from the inside.

The rest are after being scrubbed with a cheap steel brush. I still want to pressure wash it, but the purple power stripped a decent amount of the paint.

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Yo, bud. You might want to invest in a blast cabinet. Eastwood has a nice bench model that's a workhorse. Just sayin'...
 
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