Project Midnight Swinger

-
Got some small parts today. I didn’t want to spend $200 plus on a factory BB air cleaner. $40 for the jegs open element with K&N style filter and $11 for the repro decal. I think it looks great!

7DF5A1CB-AB87-4382-AA62-DEEA3B5AB5C9.jpeg


0960E8F7-86DE-404B-A031-85CAFB316FC5.jpeg


0B9B91AF-6BA7-45A6-9001-BF446647D819.jpeg
 
Scored a jegs 2.5” kit and universal x-pipe for $100 from OfferUp and found the Dynomax Ultra flos on sale at Amazon. Just need a shop to make head pipes and weld it all up for me.







9FAB5AAC-FA49-4976-A4BE-42D83DBE76AA.jpeg


F732DC23-D038-4346-8845-05E586A467F0.jpeg


1B51CE59-7516-4095-8C5E-0F1E6871C5AB.jpeg


85D0B7F2-F4D8-41D5-824C-A5A03075A2C5.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I believe those axles in that C- body 8.75 are non- tapered axles, meaning they can be cut down to any length you need and then resplined. May or may not be a cost effective way to go.
 
I believe those axles in that C- body 8.75 are non- tapered axles, meaning they can be cut down to any length you need and then resplined. May or may not be a cost effective way to go.
That was my understanding as well. I’m trying to find someone local who does it, shipping plus the cost of having them resplined puts the cost similar to new strange axles from Dr.Diff, which come with new studs and green bearings.
 
yes schumacher mounts trim some of the steering column and move the bearing back towards the firewall to clear that driverside exhaust and the exhaust pipe is a bite tricky . never had to do anything with the passenger side exhaust . it had plenty of clearance . just mod the k member for the driverside mount . i even had ps and air pump at first . removed it after i installed the 383 . ran great for years . wrecked that car so i pulled the package and put it in a 64 d100 . thats ones still together . what a sleeper , lol .
DSC06304.JPG
DSC06305.JPG
DSC06306.JPG
DSC09262.JPG
DSC09263.JPG


DSC00898.JPG
 
if your building a re go with the 4.5 bc with the c or b brakes on it . i had 15x8 rims on the rear on a 8 3/4 re

DSC07070.JPG


DSC03650.JPG


DSC03651.JPG
 
oh ya i built the rear rims with 4 bc centers . here's pics of another rim build , this one reuses the fill wheel covers for the pre customers request .

DSC00100.JPG


DSC00101.JPG


DSC00102.JPG
 
Somewhat of a fail tonight. I only got one of the old springs off. No power tools,no air compressor, and no sawzall made this job suck. Tomorrow I’m buying an electric impact or a cheap air setup.

9D755FD4-61E6-4BA9-93CC-127020E22ADD.jpeg


A5F6EB0D-7C2A-4D74-8798-A799CB2178C0.jpeg


62812796-9385-4A7F-A985-95A740801F40.jpeg
 
You asked about the Sure Grip you got. It is the best Dana/Mopar clutch type that is rebuildable.
We called them V Ramp. As torque is applied the clutch engages per the V.The more torque the tighter the clutches grab.
 
Last edited:
Calling it quits on a factory A body 8 3/4, bare housings are going for $500+. I will be picking up a complete Imperial 8 3/4 this week for $25. Going with new axles from Dr.Diff and doing his offset spring hangers to gain more room for tires. That’s $500. Picking up a 3.73 sure grip center section for $500 , and having the housing shortened, trued and perches moved is $250. A total of $1275 and it’s built how I want it vs $1500+ for a SBP 3.23 open stock axle in need of a rebuild(plus shipping because I can’t find anything local) it’s going to be the most expensive part of this swap for sure.

Added a new glove box insert today.

View attachment 1715960124

View attachment 1715960125

View attachment 1715960126

View attachment 1715960127
Pretty much what I did then after about 20 passes at the track BOOOM!!!... LOL...
Then did the same thing with a Dana 60...
Hopefully you will have a different experience..:thumbsup:...
 
Pretty much what I did then after about 20 passes at the track BOOOM!!!... LOL...
Then did the same thing with a Dana 60...
Hopefully you will have a different experience..:thumbsup:...
Not going to the track, so let’s hope it stays together.
 
Yes that was on the very well prepared track with very sticky wrinkle wall slicks...
You should never see a problem on the street...
I was considering drag radials on the back to help with traction, but maybe I’ll just stick to street tires. I just want to romp on this thing without breaking stuff.
 
That's strange, I always thought the early '70's C body rears, along with all year wagons, had the good axles. Obviously something is up with that axle as the 489 carriers came with cone type sure grips ( except for maybe some very early models) and you certainly seem to have the clutch type.
 
That's strange, I always thought the early '70's C body rears, along with all year wagons, had the good axles. Obviously something is up with that axle as the 489 carriers came with cone type sure grips ( except for maybe some very early models) and you certainly seem to have the clutch type.
The 3rd member I posted is a new/rebuilt unit. I pulled an open 2.76 489 case out of the Newport rear end. I was surprised about the tapered axles as well, but I don’t mind buying new strange axles.

721112B6-4178-4248-85CC-85032CDE0349.jpeg


D7507F29-C47B-4D1F-85C1-8AF9FEFC5C2C.jpeg
 
I was considering drag radials on the back to help with traction, but maybe I’ll just stick to street tires. I just want to romp on this thing without breaking stuff.
I run street drag radials with my stroker engine because it just seems like a skating ring with regular tires and isn't that fun... It still breaks-um loose at will but not like I'm on ice...
 
Took a grinder to the steering column. Cut some stuff off. I kept a defunct air flapper door out of an old slant six air cleaner for some reason. Well that reason was to make a patch for the shifter hole. I’m going to jb weld that into place.

I need to do some hand sanding to smooth out the grinder marks. Depending on how smooth it turns out I might just paint it and call it good. If it’s all wavy gravy then I will hit it with some filler, sand, then paint.

I’m considering hard mounting a mini tach where the shift indicator used to be, it would save me from having to do too much to it.

I also cut of the arm for the column shift to trans. I just rubbed some of the old grease on it to prevent any flash rusting. I will be cleaning this area up and doing the bearing upgrade before the column goes back in.

63DC9469-E1E9-4D36-806C-3E82FC262270.jpeg


9791AC03-3C8D-4F16-8B22-CBD662A07844.jpeg


C88626A9-181D-4FFB-977F-FF2531A277C5.jpeg


4880D379-F3E5-4AA9-96FF-C680C669E2F2.jpeg


C2915489-B52C-4526-B42F-BE8AF9DFE771.jpeg


9A5D1932-07C5-49C1-9748-F8EF3458614C.jpeg


9119CB80-5CF1-4AED-A1A3-3C8DB77EA6F4.jpeg


E8D61065-5A57-4DFA-9B1B-BE676F8F9423.jpeg


C7F695B8-26ED-4B68-A840-7609162F61F5.jpeg
 
Traded the 2.76 3rd member for this today. I’ve got some 3.73 gears for an 8 1/4 now I just need a sure grip and an install kit. Gonna run it until it breaks then upgrade. Should be half the price of modding the Newport 8 3/4. Yeah I picked it up in my Sentra.

C9F36C50-2CA1-4F21-967F-52D0171E8D13.jpeg
 
-
Back
Top