Proportioning Valve

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There is a brass T on the rear end. That looks like the distribution valve on my 68 Dart...4 wheel drum car.
 
That is where the prop valve would be if it is a disc/drum car.Does it have disc now with that block? Are the two sections of the master cyl same size? Should be diff sizes if it's for disk
 
You have to pay attention..............the photo you posted in the OP is not the same device as the one on ebay which IS a 73/ later prop valve, switch, and dist. block combination

All your original is ---------is a warning switch and distribution block. All the line go to it because there's a piston in there for the warning switch, here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=231861

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=189489

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=134889

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=182204



But I would NOT use a factory prop valve. I'd buy an aftermarket adjustable, and leave your old switch / distro block in place
 
You can use factory original distribution block from 4 wheel drum brakes when converting front to KH 4 wheel discs ... but you must add rear hold off valve after this block to rear brakes ... IF you do not want to add secondary valve after distribuition block to rear brakes ... then you must change dist block to newer Proportioning valve ( all in one unit ).then you must get correct master with larger front reservoir .
 
OK this makes more sense. The car is drum all around now. It will be disc up front. I will be purchasing a new proportioning valve and master.

So does the block on the rear ens stay the same when converting to front disc?
 
OK this makes more sense. The car is drum all around now. It will be disc up front. I will be purchasing a new proportioning valve and master.

So does the block on the rear ens stay the same when converting to front disc?


Yes, the block on the rear axle housing is just a T-junction -- it has no other function.
 
Yes, the block on the rear axle housing is just a T-junction -- it has no other function.

Excellent. On last question, do any of the aftermarket proportioning valves bolt up to the stock line in the stock location?
 
And lots of people have had problems with them. I'd find an original to use personally.
 
I got a few.
How many you want?
Send me a PM, if your interested.
Jim V.
 

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And you are gonna do whut, go down to the dealer and order one?

What's that supposed to mean?

The new repops were machined wrong on the inside. The brakes would lock up and not reliece. Original ones can be taken apart, cleaned and reused.
 
And you are gonna do whut, go down to the dealer and order one?

What's that supposed to mean?

The new repops were machined wrong on the inside. The brakes would lock up and not reliece. Original ones can be taken apart, cleaned and reused.

It meant exactly what it implied. Where are you going to get a new valve?

So, you're going to take a corroded, rusty, used, worn valve apart---something that was never meant to be serviced, something which you could never buy internal parts for, and something which your and others lives depend on, and "take it apart and clean it."

And this is better than adding an new aftermarket adjustable valve?
 
I was referring to the new stock style valve from Inline Tube. I said nothing about an adjustable valve. I would not buy a new stock style valve.
 
Be careful with the Inline Tube Proportioning Valve.(and it's really just a distribution block).

I bought one from Inline and it was junk, I looked on the internet and found that a high percentage of them were not machined properly and that Inline Tube was still selling them.

I ended up rebuilding the original one that I had already and used some parts off the new one I bought.

Here is a company that sells rebuild kits.

www.musclecarresearch.com

Paul



Paul
 
"Inline tube "distribution blocks OR proportioning blocks are machined wrong ? Which ones ?.... I live like 10 minutes from them and purchased the dist block... but about 2 weeks from bleeding the brakes ....... I will let them know in person ....
 
The valve you are looking for (BLK250) is machined wrong, so the brake light won't go off (I never try to actually use the brakes with their valve so I don't know if that worked).

Bought one...had to go back and exchanged it for another one that didn't work. They gave me the wrong brake lines also.

All in all I went over there 5 times...it's a one hour drive each way for me...so there is 10 hours of my life I will never get back.

Ended up buying brake lines online from Fine Lines and had them shipped to me...and I rebuilt an original block/valve.

I wouldn't walk across the street to go to Inline Tube...maybe your luck will be better than mine.

Paul


"Inline tube "distribution blocks OR proportioning blocks are machined wrong ? Which ones ?.... I live like 10 minutes from them and purchased the dist block... but about 2 weeks from bleeding the brakes ....... I will let them know in person ....
 
"Inline tube "distribution blocks OR proportioning blocks are machined wrong ? Which ones ?.... I live like 10 minutes from them and purchased the dist block... but about 2 weeks from bleeding the brakes ....... I will let them know in person ....



I bought this one here from classic industries:

http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/md2268.html

I just got it installed last weekend, first problem I had was it leaked from the copper gasket on the top hex portion. I unscrewed it and found a perpendicular nick in it. Instead of returning it I found a replacement metal gasket and installed it. My brake light stays on now and I can't lock up the brakes, may be the valve, may be other issues.
 
I will let you know my experience with inline tube ... i will be ready to bleed brakes in one week hopefully ...
 
No matter where buy it from, I would guess that every new proportioning valve comes from the same supplier.

I can't imagine there is enough money to be made that there would be multiple vendors reproducing them.

Buy a used one and rebuild it...it's not brain surgery or rocket science.

My used one was filled with black muck and after a good cleaning and the rebuild kit it works fine.

Paul



I bought this one here from classic industries:

http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/md2268.html

I just got it installed last weekend, first problem I had was it leaked from the copper gasket on the top hex portion. I unscrewed it and found a perpendicular nick in it. Instead of returning it I found a replacement metal gasket and installed it. My brake light stays on now and I can't lock up the brakes, may be the valve, may be other issues.
 
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