Pulling Engine/Trans over the winter....Header Question??

-

wkroncke17

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2008
Messages
270
Reaction score
143
All,
I'm planning on pulling the Engine/Trans together soon to get trans 100% and update a few things in the Engine compartment.
Question is - with the TTI Headers, will they be able to be left in place while I pull the Engine/trans out?
Years ago I'm pretty sure I remember pulling them out and leaving in the old Hooker Super Comps.
At almost 60 years old, I find myself doing as much research as I can to make things go smoother - this site is a God send for that!
Thanks in advance everyone!!

Wally.

IMG_0965.jpg
 
All,
I'm planning on pulling the Engine/Trans together soon to get trans 100% and update a few things in the Engine compartment.
Question is - with the TTI Headers, will they be able to be left in place while I pull the Engine/trans out?
Years ago I'm pretty sure I remember pulling them out and leaving in the old Hooker Super Comps.
At almost 60 years old, I find myself doing as much research as I can to make things go smoother - this site is a God send for that!
Thanks in advance everyone!!

Wally.

View attachment 1716329052

On a small block I’m not sure Wally. I know on a big block B-body they need removed to get the trans out.
 
My Barracuda used to be my 4-seasons DD.
Every September long weekend, I'd pull the 367, and drop in a stock 318 for the winter. Come May long weekend, I'd swap the 367 back in. Sometimes the A833 trans came out with the engine/sometimes not, and many times I'd run an automatic in the winter. I did this routine for at least 5 winters, until I started making enough money to buy a nice winter beater.
The headers always stayed in the car.
I just used Tarp-straps over blankets to keep them from getting tangled up. BTW, this is also why my underhood is painted black, for easy paint touch-ups.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
One time;
I built a nice supportworks, and dropped the engine/trans down thru the bottom. That worked real good. But it didn't save me any time. Down went great. Up not so much.
Never did it again.
If I have to do it on the floor, I take the trans down first.
But mostly, I used a 4-post hoist.
-------------------------------------------------------
Here's a tip for taking the hood off. It's the method I use.
1) open the hood, install a cut-to-fit wooden 2x2 strut to hold the hood up., taking the weight off the hinges.
2) Assuming the hood is lined up in the first place; mark the position of the hood hinges. I drilled 1/8th holes thru the hinges into the hood pads, for ease of line-up later.
3) loosen the 4 bolts and slide the hood down. remove the 2 rear-most bolts. You may have to install blanket-bumpers at the pointy corners, to keep them off the body.
4) Blanket the core support, remove the wooden strut, lower the hood onto the blanket.
5) Clean the roof of the car, and cover it with a blanket, then remove the remaining 2 bolts.
6) get a helper
7) lift up the hood, carry it away from the car, flip it upside down, then carry it back and lay it on the roof.
Badaboom!
8) yes, 20 years ago I didn't need a helper. But I also didn't worship my car and was not afraid to scratch it, which never happened anyway. At 71 now, I wouldn't try it.
9) wheel in the cherry-picker and hang the load leveler.
 
Last edited:
All,
I'm planning on pulling the Engine/Trans together soon to get trans 100% and update a few things in the Engine compartment.
Question is - with the TTI Headers, will they be able to be left in place while I pull the Engine/trans out?
Years ago I'm pretty sure I remember pulling them out and leaving in the old Hooker Super Comps.
At almost 60 years old, I find myself doing as much research as I can to make things go smoother - this site is a God send for that!
Thanks in advance everyone!!

Wally.

View attachment 1716329052
Do you have an oversized aftermarket oil pan or a stock replacement center sump style?
On mine I have a 360 with a Milodon 7 quart oil pan. There was not enough room to get the engine and transmission in without getting stuck between the k-frame and the trans tunnel. I had to separate mine and do the engine from the top and then the trans from the bottom. Then once they were in place I have to lift the engine back up while connected to the transmission to get the left side header in place from the bottom.

I have smaller tubes than yours because I am using Doug's headers.

This would be a good time to start taking everything out the bottom on the k-frame. For me too next time, maybe. Although I am used to separating them.
 
Do you have an oversized aftermarket oil pan or a stock replacement center sump style?
On mine I have a 360 with a Milodon 7 quart oil pan. There was not enough room to get the engine and transmission in without getting stuck between the k-frame and the trans tunnel. I had to separate mine and do the engine from the top and then the trans from the bottom. Then once they were in place I have to lift the engine back up while connected to the transmission to get the left side header in place from the bottom.

I have smaller tubes than yours because I am using Doug's headers.

This would be a good time to start taking everything out the bottom on the k-frame. For me too next time, maybe. Although I am used to separating them.

Is that pan straight sided or does it have a kick out?

I’m pretty sure the last time I did a TTI header car the engine went in with the headers down in the chassis.

If the OP has a couple of weeks @MOPARMAGA and I have to swap engines in a Duster.

Then I’ll know for sure.
 
Is that pan straight sided or does it have a kick out?

I’m pretty sure the last time I did a TTI header car the engine went in with the headers down in the chassis.

If the OP has a couple of weeks @MOPARMAGA and I have to swap engines in a Duster.

Then I’ll know for sure.
Yes, the headers were in the chassis before dropping in the engine.
 
-
Back
Top