Question about lead seam filler

[RogerRamRod]

Two questions actually,
I filled my Quarter seams, but didn’t Get quite enough to be able to file it level. Do I try to add more lead to the low spots, or use plastic filler from here?
If plastic, Should I dig some of the lead out, so there is room for plastic on top of the lead all over, or have some plastic, some lead “surface”?

 

[mopar head]

IMO, it won`t hurt to have both, Iv`e done it. Stuff is a PIA in the vertical ain`t it.

 

[72bluNblu]

From where you're at there it's ok to go with filler. You could try and fill in a couple of the lower spots a bit more, but it's definitely not easy to work lead on a near vertical surface.

If you go filler over the top, you want to knock down any high spots in the lead. You don't want to be sanding that like you'll be sanding the filler and creating fine grains of lead dust. No bueno. It looks like you've already hit it with a body file and that's the way to do it, I just knock the lead down so I know it's a little low and won't peak through the filler as I sand it down.

I also would use Evercoat's Metal-2-Metal or USC's All Metal, especially for the seams. They're a lot more durable than plastic filler, and at a seam like that it's more important. I actually don't use plastic filler at all, just Metal-2-Metal. It's harder to work and expensive, but I've never had to go back to a car I used it on to do a body repair. And some of the cars I did when I was working in my old man's resto shop have had the same paint for over 20 years now.

I did the tail panel seams on my Duster in lead recently, this is what they looked like before I went over the top with filler. That's a narrower seam though, little easier.

 

[RogerRamRod]

Thanks for the reply’s. Nice job, 72.

 

[TrailBeast]

Thanks for the reply’s. Nice job, 72.

Just a note that might save you headaches in the future.
I have used both plastic and fiberglass on sail panels, and ALL the ones with plastic filler eventually cracked from moisture getting in that seam somewhere.
NONE of the ones done with fiberglass ever cracked.

 

[GeorgeH]

I would smooth that down further with a 3 inch roloc disc or something even if it means using more reinforced filler. I don't like to try and push filler into lots of nooks and crannys like that and potentionally trap an air pocket that can blow out later when it gets parked in the sun.

 

[72bluNblu]

I would smooth that down further with a 3 inch roloc disc or something even if it means using more reinforced filler. I don't like to try and push filler into lots of nooks and crannys like that and potentionally trap an air pocket that can blow out later when it gets parked in the sun.

Not enough money in the world for me to take a sanding disk to lead filler. Aerosolized lead dust? Yeah, no thanks. Breathe some of that in and you’re screwed. Get it on your skin and you can absorb it too if the particles are small, like they will be if you take a roloc disk to it.

That’s why you only use body files on lead. Bigger pieces, no chance of breathing it in or getting coated in dust. And clean up is easy, just sweep up the shavings. If you make dust it’ll get everywhere.

The surface isn’t as consistent as I’d like to see it, but metal-2-metal over what the OP has isn’t going to cause him any issues at all.

 

[GeorgeH]

Not enough money in the world for me to take a sanding disk to lead filler. Aerosolized lead dust? Yeah, no thanks. Breathe some of that in and you’re screwed. Get it on your skin and you can absorb it too if the particles are small, like they will be if you take a roloc disk to it.

That’s why you only use body files on lead. Bigger pieces, no chance of breathing it in or getting coated in dust. And clean up is easy, just sweep up the shavings. If you make dust it’ll get everywhere.

The surface isn’t as consistent as I’d like to see it, but metal-2-metal over what the OP has isn’t going to cause him any issues at all.

yeah, sure wasn't thinking about the health aspect.