Question about T/O Bearing Keepers Etc.

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ValiantOne

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Hey All,

Just installed a new clutch kit in my car. 68 Val, 273 now with 833 o/d. While I was putting the trans back in I popped the top fork arm of the clutch fork out of the little spring keeper on the throw out bearing.

I could see it, but couldn't reach it to push it back on. Because the t/o bearing rides pretty snugly on the extension from the trans bearing retainer, I figured it may get itself popped back in once the trans was in place and fully seated against the bell.

I'm pretty dogonne sure the t/o bearing clip/keeper did pop back onto the top clutch fork, but I cannot see it from the bottom. I can kind of feel up in there and it seems okay, but I just can't quite get my gigantic meathook of a hand contorted enough to be totally positive.

The t/o bearing is sliding up and down the bearing retainer as it should, everything seems to be working. Am I unduly worrying or is there a way to be absolutely positive it is on there?

Thanks,

Chris E.
 
They don't usually pop back in by themselves so I suspect it wasn't fully apart.
If the fork is fully engaged on it's pivot, AND, the TO bearing contacts the PP fingers on both sides(top and bottom),at the same time, AND does not feel funny,as in springy, AND the fork-fingers appear to be parallel to the flywheel,as in not cocked at an angle(when retracted), then I would like to say you are ok.
I've been in your shoes, and thankfully managed to get it all correct without taking the tranny down. In fact, I am so confident in getting it right that I now install the fork after the tranny is installed. In the 1970 bellhouse, there is just enough room to engage them all almost simultaneously, and then bob the end with your palm, and have the three engagement points all pop in/on at the same time, with a satisfying "cluck" sound.
 
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They don't usually pop back in by themselves so I suspect it wasn't fully apart.
If the fork is fully engaged on it's pivot, AND, the TO bearing contacts the PP fingers on both sides(top and bottom),at the same time, AND does not feel funny,as in springy, AND the fork-fingers appear to be parallel to the flywheel,as in not cocked at an angle(when retracted), then I would like to say you are ok.
I've been in your shoes, and thankfully managed to get it all correct without taking the tranny down. In fact, I am so confident in getting it right that I now install the fork after the tranny is installed. In the 1970 bellhouse, there is just enough room to engage them all almost simultaneously, and then bob the end with your palm, and have the three engagement points all pop in/on at the same time, with a satisfying "cluck" sound.


I was wondering if that could be done! Glad to know someone has had luck doing it.

I think I am okay. Although I couldn't see the top "pad" on the spring side I could see it on the fork side. It had the same amount of engagement as the bottom pad. I just put the driveshaft in and whoooooohooooooo, the wheels turned under their own power for the first time since last November.

I am getting a noise kind of whining-ish rubbing when in neutral with the clutch disengaged. As soon as I start to push in the clutch the noise stops.

Also, if I push the clutch past the point of disengagement I get a noise too. Not sure what that is but I haven't adjusted the clutch rod yet so maybe that'll take care of it.
 
The noise in neutral , if the freeplay is correct and the TO is not dragging on the PP fingers, is usually the tranny front bearing.

Thank you. I am betting it is the t/o dragging. I kind of pulled the fork back and took all the freeplay out with the nut just to get everything situated. I haven't put any freeplay back in the pedal yet. And the front bearing is new!

not so sure about that other noise............hmmmmmm. Guess we'll see!
 
Well in that case, as to the second noise,with no freeplay you are over disengaging the fingers, and the noise might be "normal" for such a bad situation. Don't do that,lol
 
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