Question For You, Del.....

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RustyRatRod

RustyRatRod

I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
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@67Dart273 Del, I am slowly gettin a Super Six outfit ready for the 170 in Vixen. I got an NOS Hygrade Super Six choke kit off eBay. It has the option of an electrical connection. If I decide to go that route, can I use the 12V ignition side of the ballast as the source for the choke controller's 12V?

Thank you drive through.
 
I'm not Del. The blue wire is the only switched hot wire in the engine bay. It feeds ignition and charging system and everything else they added along the years. Additions were mostly EPA/emissions related. This heater element causes the choke to open a little bit faster but choke will work just fine without it.
The OEM ceramic box controller consists of wound resistor wires and mechanical points much like the gauge voltage limiter except there are two in this controller. Its not sealed either so moisture can get in it. Bound to fail sooner or later. If it becomes a short to ground it can effect operation of those other systems.
 
^^What Red said^^. But also check out your voltage drop which can be caused by the ignition switch itself, and consider using a Bosch style relay to feed underhood loads incuding the VR. And remember none of the OEM ignition feeds are fused originally. this can lead to annoying amounts of smoke when adding stuff.
 
Thanks yall. I thought the spring in the choke assembly might work without the electrical part. I'll just leave it off.
 
67Dart273 said:
^^What Red said^^. But also check out your voltage drop which can be caused by the ignition switch itself, and consider using a Bosch style relay to feed underhood loads incuding the VR. And remember none of the OEM ignition feeds are fused originally. this can lead to annoying amounts of smoke when adding stuff.
Click to expand...

So are you saying put a relay in the blue feed coming from the ignition switch?
 
Il
RustyRatRod said:
Shut up fool it's not your car.
Click to expand...
I'll never "shut up" till I see a picture of vixen engulfed in tire smoke!!...:thumbsup:..
Screenshot_20201101-081959.png
 
My '63 has an electric choke wired to the 12V side of ballast. Been working fine for a few years so I suppose it's ok there...
 
RustyRatRod said:
So are you saying put a relay in the blue feed coming from the ignition switch?
Click to expand...

Yes.

Functionally cut the blue coming out of the firewall. Use the firewall end to trigger the relay, feed the relay through a big fuse or breaker off the starter relay, and wire the engine bay end of the blue to the load contact.

You can put an unobtrusive toggle in the relay coil ground and create a simple anti theft. You know how easy it is to hot-wire these girls

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Bulkhead connector end of blue goes to 86, 85 is ground. Don't reverse these as most relays have a spike diode

30 is main power in, from the starter relay "stud"

87 is output to engine bay end of blue. 87A is not used it is normally closed IE closed with relay at rest

Some high current relays are normally open only, and the two terminals are both 87 and not 87A
 
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67Dart273 said:
Yes.

Functionally cut the blue coming out of the firewall. Use the firewall end to trigger the relay, feed the relay through a big fuse or breaker off the starter relay, and wire the engine bay end of the blue to the load contact.

You can put an unobtrusive toggle in the relay coil ground and create a simple anti theft. You know how easy it is to hot-wire these girls

View attachment 1715628832

Bulkhead connector end of blue goes to 86, 85 is ground. Don't reverse these as most relays have a spike diode

30 is main power in, from the starter relay "stud"

87 is output to engine bay end of blue. 87A is not used it is normally closed IE closed with relay at rest

Some high current relays are normally open only, and the two terminals are both 87 and not 87A
Click to expand...

Thanks, Del. I take it that since I'm going to be going through a relay, that I don't need a high amperage switch, although I will get a good one. Even though the only people that I know that know how to hot wire a car are old enough not to feel like messin with it. lol But it's still a dang good idea.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Thanks, Del. I take it that since I'm going to be going through a relay, that I don't need a high amperage switch, although I will get a good one. Even though the only people that I know that know how to hot wire a car are old enough not to feel like messin with it. lol But it's still a dang good idea.
Click to expand...
you mean a jump wire from the positive of the battery to the positive side of the coil and cross the starter solenoid with a screwdriver?...
 
j par said:
you mean a jump wire from the positive of the battery to the positive side of the coil and cross the starter solenoid with a screwdriver?...
Click to expand...

I think we all know how it's done here. hush up fool.
 
^^^^
Translation: good morning triple-r oh, how are you doing??

Hey JPar I'm doing fine this morning I hope everything's okay with you...

All is good on my end....
 
j par said:
^^^^
Translation: good morning triple-r oh, how are you doing??

Hey JPar I'm doing fine this morning I hope everything's okay with you...

All is good on my end....
Click to expand...

I farted.
 
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