Quick Splices?

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I have been using the heat gun solder type and really like them, very easy to use
 
I still (sometimes) use plain ol solder and additional liquid flux. Be careful not to get some acid flux used for plumbing. And by the way, Europeans, it's "sodder" the "l" is silent. Ask Kester they are the go-to folks of "soddering"
 
While not my go to I have used them and never had a problem. I have a pack of the heat shrink/solder connectors. Those are great. I also have been known to solder wires together and use plain heat shrink.
 
actual solder and heat shrink is best. if you want, tape the joint then heat shrink over top.
good heat shrink is lined with hot glue that seals everything when it is shrunk.

also, see this video for a western union style splice:


a splice like this will hold without solder and can just be taped in a pinch
 
On some of those pre-made heat shrink/ solder connectors, I do not understand how you can tell for certain that the solder has flowed well and make a good connection
 
I usually use the crimp type with heat seal that spooges out when you heat it up. For inline repairs in unsheltered locations, I like them because they provide mechanical support in addition to weather sealing. Plus they're typically semi transparent which can allow visual inspection.

I have seen and done too many botched solder jobs to recommend them unless you're quite practiced, as the solder can incite stress on the wire at the end of the solder joint if the joint is prone to any mechanical stress.
 
67Dart273 said:
On some of those pre-made heat shrink/ solder connectors, I do not understand how you can tell for certain that the solder has flowed well and make a good connection
Click to expand...
you cant really. they rely on a good twist and a bit of solder flow to hold connection and the glue for mechanical strength.
 
First time I saw those "insulation displacement connectors" (IDC) was in the 1970's when I rented a bumper-mounted tow hitch for my 1969 Dart. U-haul connected the trailer lights using those. I was just a college kid so didn't know they were f'ing up my car's wiring. Once the insulation is gone, the copper strands can corrode, plus it leaves a place to kink and break the copper, touch something to short, ... Those IDC connectors also come in many accessory kits (radio, ...). I never use them. I always solder and heat-shrink. I even solder crimp connectors since I have had crimps come loose (shouldn't if properly crimped, but). I also hate the butt-crimps which most mechanics use. How many times have you seen an old Mopar with all the steering column wires cut and a mass of butt-crimps where the connector was because that was the only way the gomer could figure to replace the turn signal switch? It isn't hard to release the pins of the twin-lock connector (1960's Mopar) like one should. IMHO, the only place to use IDC connectors is on ribbon cables inside electronics like PC's, and even there they stopped using them.
 
nevjr said:
good heat shrink is lined with hot glue that seals everything when it is shrunk.
Click to expand...
We used such adhesive heat shrink at Westinghouse for some things, but it is very pricey (5x regular shrink). The NASA splice is how I do it, but with stranded wire I only wrap about 1.5 times on each side, using 2 needle-nose pliers and I don't tin the wire first (would become too stiff). One guy here showed just forcing the 2 stranded wires together so the strands "mesh", then solder. I tried that several times but doesn't work for me. By twisting them, you secure the wires until you can get them soldered. I dropped my old Radio Shack 75W solder gun and broke it a few days ago, so bought a new Weller 140/100W gun iron at Ace. It heats up much faster and has LED lights. If using a little pencil soldering iron it will take much longer.
 
them blue connectors ant worth diddly! seen them on trailers for years used as a short cut to fixing lights right! then thay get wet, corroded and lose continuity! happens alot when a driver hooks up to go and trailer lights ant right, thay pull up to the shop and some dummy will use them to get the lights fixed to get driver out but next week another driver hook to trailer and back to shop for another light repair from mr lazywrench, for long end up with a ratts nest of mess and somebody like me end up starting at pigtail and rewire the hole thing, cause of a hand full of worthless blue quick connectors!! theres a special spot in hell for the fool that invented the dang thangs!
 
67Dart273 said:
On some of those pre-made heat shrink/ solder connectors, I do not understand how you can tell for certain that the solder has flowed well and make a good connection
Click to expand...

If you look at the video on page one, you can see it flowing into the joint as the joint gets more and more silvered. I agree though, I'm not sure all of them work "that well".
 
For rewiring my car,I liked using an Iron intstead of a gun. Once up to temperature solders are fast an easy. Mine is very similar to this one.
upload_2020-11-30_6-32-1.jpeg
 
That wire tap or splice is available from Dorman and made a LOT better than they once were. They snap closed better and come with dielectric grease in them.
I like this 3M tap design too. The mating wire terminal swallows the fold so it cannot open.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00152RH4O/?tag=fabo03-20
 
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