Radiator identification

-
Joey4speed

Joey4speed

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2018
Messages
2,047
Reaction score
1,912
Location
Coastal NC
Hey there,
I overheated a bit today for the first time this year. Was in traffic and hot out in the northeast. Temp guage usually stays left of center, near the E in TEMP. Today it creeped up under the M and dumped a bit after I parked. I want to pull the radiator and maybe get it re-cored, it looks like a triple core. I dont know the past history, wondering if anyone knows if this is the original radiator top for my 69 Dart GTS 383 4speed w/o AC. (pic)
Thanks
Joe
383 Radiator.jpg
 
From the photo, shape and markings look correct.
With an open radiator, its not unusual to dump a little coolant out the overflow. Especially after getting stuck in traffic on hot day and then shutting down.
When it cools down and you look in the top tank, the coolant will be at least an inch down from the top. Normal, as long as its above the top of the fins.

PS. With an open system and a soldered copper radiator and heater core, its best to use 'conventional' green coolant, even though it needs to be replaced every few years. Even though this may mean buying store brand rather than big name, the corrossion inhibitors with conventional are a better match than the organic acid technology (OAT and HOAT) in the 'universal' green coolant.
 
Yes I agree about the overflow after traffic. It's just that I noticed some seepage down low and lower tank paint washed off, indicative of a small leak. Not sure if the inside is clogged.
I'll just take it out and maybe bring it to a shop and have them give it the once over. Ill be sure to keep the same rad...Thanks for the Intel on the green. I'm old school w lubricants that way. I'm not a synthetic oil guy either.
Anyways I feel better and thanks for reaching out.
Joe
 
No problem. Yea. That does sound like a pinhole leak. If so, hopefully its in a location that can be fixed. That would also be a reason it couldn't hold as high a pressure and therefore temperature run a little hotter.
 
Glen-Ray radiator has the correct cores, most shops do not. With a factory big block A-Body radiator you will have 1/2" tubes instead of the normal 3/8" tubes, so make sure if you have it recored that you get the right core! They can also provide the correct part number tag that yours is missing. If it is just a pinhole, a competent local shop can fix it for you.
 
Yes, I brought it to a decent radiator shop in NJ. He cleaned it but there's still build up in the cores, he will need to detach the tanks to clear the cores properly, he said they are clogged internally. It is a 22" and the triple cores look like they may be 1/2" as HemiDart mentioned. Hes gonna take the time to do it properly and will paint it Satin Black, looks better than the Gloss Black. Ill get this one back in tomo and probably call GlenRay and order #2949065 as Mattax also mentioned.
Thanks guys, the information was prompt and on the money as usual.
Joe
 
Mattax, 1 last thing.
What did you mean about "buying store brand rather than big name, the corrossion inhibitors with conventional are a better match than the organic acid technology (OAT and HOAT) in the 'universal' green coolant." ?
Can you give me an example of Store Brand over Big Name Brand?
Thanks
 
Lay it flat on the ground and put a gal of white vinegar in it and let it set for 2 or 3 hours than flush it out with a garden hose, you wont believe how clean it will be.
 
Joe,
If you have a guy who can to that much and do a nice job, Bob at Glen-ray may talk you out of buying a second one. Or if the core is bad and your local guy can't get them, Bob will recore it. My experience with him was that he's that type of guy.

Store brand. Yea. I'm pretty sure I ended up using Autozone brand, because none of the local stores had a conventional antifreeze made by Prestone, Pahnol, Zerox etc
https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze...autozone-antifreeze-engine-coolant/540722_0_0
 
Brian6pac,
Yes that vinegar works great. I had unbelievable results with white vinegar and salt to clean tarnished electrical connections. Just have to soak in Water/baking soda solution to stop the process.
Mattax,
I hear nothing but Great things about Glen-Ray from everyone I speak to.
Thanks again guys.
 
Mattax I see the generic AutoZone brand advertises:
  • Protects all metals, including aluminum
  • For use in all makes and models 1989 and earlier.
Good deal.
 
Joey4speed said:
Mattax I see the generic AutoZone brand advertises:
  • Protects all metals, including aluminum
  • For use in all makes and models 1989 and earlier.
Good deal.
Click to expand...
Being just for the earlier vehcles is definately a good indicator.
There's so much marketing goblety-gook these days its harder to know whats good and what's not.
Some key things I look for are unfortunately process of elimination
- it claims to be universal, it can't be, and certainly not ideal.
- if it says 'phosphate free' then its for european spec, not what we want.

The phosphates are one of the inorganic corrossion inhibitors that quickly protects. Apparently Europe has a lot more hard water than we do, and phosphates can drop out of solution when mixed with high mineral water. Its one of the reasons that even here, mixing with distilled water is best.
 
It pays to know.
Just like the lack of Zinc/phosphorus in todays Motor Oil, but thats a conversation for another forum.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top