Rear disk brakes To do or not to do?

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n8ling

n8ling

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So I currently have rear end apart, axles being drilled to lbp, and need to replace everything. I think for a few more bucks I should be able to convert to rotors and callipers! Any suggestions or do's and don't s good brand, bad brand?
Not sure if this should be under brakes or not , just lookin for advise and pics and rough idea of cost!
 
A few more bucks?
Many of the kits I see are at least $600. I made the switch to rear discs with a kit from Dr Diff. The only gains I saw were cosmetic. The car stopped great before with rear drums. If you are only interested in a better looking brake system, go for it. To me, the only instance where they may pay off is on a road course.
 
To for it, quicker to change pads vs shoes and better selection of materials in the pads
 
Most kits require the sealed green wheel bearings and the big bolt pattern. I haven't found one that will work with the OEM adjustable wheel bearings and SBP wheels.
 
CUDA69 said:
Most kits require the sealed green wheel bearings and the big bolt pattern. I haven't found one that will work with the OEM adjustable wheel bearings and SBP wheels.
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back in 68 I had a new 68 fastback,383 form.s. was stationed at tinker a.f.b. in okc.on the way to work one morning, the shortest mini-skirt I`ve ever seen was walking down the side walk.going the same direction, the guy infront of me stopped in the middle of the street stairing(she was bootiful) "stacked", I was gaulking like the young horny boy that I was.looked up as i was about to hit him-panic stop! the front stayed straight, the back locked up and came around to the right(slope on the road)didn`t make contact, less than an inch between us! made a beleiver out of me on disc brakes!-----bob:coffee2:
 
I was considering the same question when I did my 8 3/4. I found a set of 3" rears and went with the Disc o tech cordoba disk brake sawp. Stops on a dime.
 
Given the weight of an A-body, rear discs are a luxury not a necessity. If you have some expendable cash, I would go for it.

If you do the install, don't short cut it. Get the right MC, proportioning valve and any other related components needed to take maximum benefit of the new system.

With all that said, unless you are auto-crossing or do road racing track days, you will more than likely never see the benefits.
 
1968formulas340 said:
given the weight of an a-body, rear discs are a luxury not a necessity. If you have some expendable cash, i would go for it.

If you do the install, don't short cut it. Get the right mc, proportioning valve and any other related components needed to take maximum benefit of the new system.

With all that said, unless you are auto-crossing or do road racing track days, you will more than likely never see the benefits.
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unless u have a panic stop 11
 
Using the 11.75 front rotors is better bang for the buck. They made a HUGE difference on my car even over the 10.87 rotors.

In general, I have to drop the rear pressure by about 35% to keep the rears from locking first (wilwood proportioning valve), and that's with the typical 10x2.5 LBP drums with shoes and drums that are old enough I didn't buy them (figure 15+ yrs old). If you stay drums, there is literally no reason for anyone to use larger than the 10x2.5's
 
Car was (69 cuda fastback) four corner drums, fronts have been converted to disc , rear is stock and shoes are done from burnouts, I did replace all 2 yrs ago but everything is shot, I have replaced the peg legger for a 489 3:55 s/g axles are drilled to lbp w/green bearings my thought were to replace brk component again and drill out drums to fit,........or just go to rear disc. The feedback is great and I do like upgrades ......still on the fence!!!
 
I just got done installing the wilwood rear kit on my 65. It went together real nice aside from having to have my new moser axles drilled with an access hole to tighten down the backing plate. Yes you do have to use the green moser bearings with the snap rings in order for it to work. The brake kit cost me a little over 700 bucks, plus the green bearings and all the rest of the BS ill be north of 900 bucks with machine shop work. Is it worth it? Ill let you know once the car is running in about a year. Does it look bitchin? Hell yea.
 
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