rear end swap, Dart 318

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Dave Dume

Daves Dart
Joined
Jan 18, 2013
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Location
Virginia
I have acquired a 72 banjo with 8 3/4 diff. No axles except for B body ones that are too long.

With all the builds that have been done, what does one suggest? Is it possible to shorten the B-body axles, I am trying to do this on a budget. My 74 Swinger 318, has large bolt pattern that takes C-body rims.

Any suggestions on services that shorten axles and to what length is needed.

Thanks, Dave in Virginia.
 
You'll spend more on shortening yer axles than a junkyard ford 8.8 would cost.....with 3:73's and an LS diff.
 
You can't shorten B-body axles because right behind the splines the axle gets smaller. You need C-body or truck axles. Their the only ones I know that are long enough to shorten.
 
65cuda360 said:
You'll spend more on shortening yer axles than a junkyard ford 8.8 would cost.....with 3:73's and an LS diff.
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Kinda sounds like he doesn't have the means to narrow anything and as you know almost all 8.8's need the one side shortened, all the old mounting brackets cut off and spring perches welded on.
 
I thought the B body axles were a bolt in with B body backin plates.
 
If you have enough money to get a set of axles shortened you have enough money to buy a set of aftermarket axles.
 
A 66/67 B body 8 3/4 will be real close, and the difference can probably be made up with wheel offset.

The 71-74 8 3/4 is the widest one except for station wagons.
 
Dave Dume said:
Any suggestions on services that shorten axles and to what length is needed.

Thanks, Dave in Virginia.
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If you have either the proper C body, B body stsgion wAgon axles or truck axles, send them to Moser with a note stating you want them Shortened and resplined to stock A body length. They will take it from there. I've had at least 6 done this way over the years.

If you don't need them right away, I will have the ones under my 65 Dart out in a month or so.
 
roccodart440 said:
If you have enough money to get a set of axles shortened you have enough money to buy a set of aftermarket axles.
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Pretty close!

You can get stock length, high strength A-body axles from Dr. Diff with the "green" axle bearings already installed for $295+ shipping, and those are significantly stronger than stock. For a little bit more you can keep the stock style tapered bearings (worth it!!! Green bearings suck!).

Better than paying over half that to get a set of 40 year old stock axles shortened and re-splined.
 
72bluNblu said:
Pretty close!

You can get stock length, high strength A-body axles from Dr. Diff with the "green" axle bearings already installed for $295+ shipping, and those are significantly stronger than stock. For a little bit more you can keep the stock style tapered bearings (worth it!!! Green bearings suck!).

Better than paying over half that to get a set of 40 year old stock axles shortened and re-splined.
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Does he have them with the proper offset for A-body brakes now? Last time I checked (a good while back) all his axles required you change to the wider brakes. Have you read his article on "green bearings"? He brings up some real interesting points
 
65 Dartman said:
If you have either the proper C body, B body stsgion wAgon axles or truck axles, send them to Moser with a note stating you want them Shortened and resplined to stock A body length. They will take it from there. I've had at least 6 done this way over the years.

If you don't need them right away, I will have the ones under my 65 Dart out in a month or so.
Click to expand...

Thanks 65 Dartman, If they have lbp I would wait on your offer. Happy Holidays
 
fishy68 said:
Does he have them with the proper offset for A-body brakes now? Last time I checked (a good while back) all his axles required you change to the wider brakes. Have you read his article on "green bearings"? He brings up some real interesting points
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I don't know if he has the small bolt pattern axles with the a-body offset. Since the op was asking about BBP axles I assumed he was switching over. I can't see spending that much money on axles and keeping the SBP and SBP brakes, given how hard it's getting to find parts for them.

I have read his article on the green bearings. He does bring up some good points, the tapered bearings do have drawbacks. But even the upgraded green bearing are not as strong as the tapered bearings. The fact that they're used on other cars is of little consequence to me, there are a lot of designs in use out there, it doesn't mean they're better. The thrust blocks are a pain (especially if you forget to install them!!!) but if you're running stock 3rd members removing the block doesn't make them stronger. And since I don't submerge my axles in lakes, I'm not too worried about the seals. So far, I haven't had an issue with spline engagement either. And I have a set of Cass' BBP axles in my EL5 GT with tapered bearings and 11x2.5" brakes.

Everything is a trade off one way or another, I still prefer the tapered bearings. But that's just my opinion and preference.
 
72bluNblu said:
Everything is a trade off one way or another, I still prefer the tapered bearings. But that's just my opinion and preference.
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What I put in bold says it all.

I also agree that tapered bearings are a better design. I just don't think the divorced retainer sealed roller bearings are all that bad. My justification is I've spent over 30 yrs. working on them and saw them in a lot of applications that lasted a real long time.
 
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