Rear Main Seal leak

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RustyRatRod said:
Find a new machine shop. JMO
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The reason it was align honed is because it was needed. It's part of the process of maintaining proper tolerances in the main caps. And when you align hone it sets the crank a few thousandths deeper into the upper mains requiring sometimes a undersized timing chain to take up the slack. That's the reason I had to go with a --5 Rollmaster timing chain. Taking a few thousandths from the main seal bridge by sanding it snugs up the loosesness left behind from the align hone.
 
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SuperStock426 said:
The reason it was align honed is because it was needed. It's part of the process of maintaining proper tolerances in the main caps. And when you align hone it sets the crank a few thousandths deeper into the upper mains requiring sometimes a undersized timing chain to take up the slack. That's the reason I had to go with a --5 Rollmaster timing chain. Taking a few thousandths from the main seal bridge by sanding it snugs up the loosesness left behind from the align hone.
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I'm extremely familiar with it since I've done it before working in a machine shop. Unless an engine spun a main and damaged the block, there is zero need to change the crankshaft position. Lemmie splain. The main caps are remover and slightly milled where they meet the block. Now, we have an egg shaped crankshaft main bore, but it's all on the cap side.

The block is the set up in the align hone or bore and JUST SKIMMED in the block side to barely even knock the dust off, while the main caps are trued. It does not change the crank position one iota. This is the correct way and if the shop didn't do that, what else are they doing or not doing?

That was my point. Of course, doing it "their way" certainly works, but then you're faced with an oddball timing chain.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I'm extremely familiar with it since I've done it before working in a machine shop. Unless an engine spun a main and damaged the block, there is zero need to change the crankshaft position. Lemmie splain. The main caps are remover and slightly milled where they meet the block. Now, we have an egg shaped crankshaft main bore, but it's all on the cap side.

The block is the set up in the align hone or bore and JUST SKIMMED in the block side to barely even knock the dust off, while the main caps are trued. It does not change the crank position one iota. This is the correct way and if the shop didn't do that, what else are they doing or not doing?

That was my point. Of course, doing it "their way" certainly works, but then you're faced with an oddball timing chain.
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When billet main caps are installed isn't align bore/ hone required?
 
RustyRatRod said:
I wouldn't say they did it "wrong" but there WAS a better way.
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They're a fairly reputable shop here where I live and build some high horsepower engines. Been in business 40 years. But the bulk of their work is on Chevy engines. There's a place called R&R machine in Huntsville, Alabama that knows Mopars and the tricks of the trade with them. I might try using them. If I lived closer I'd have Dan Dvorak do all of my machine work.
 
SuperStock426 said:
They're a fairly reputable shop here where I live and build some high horsepower engines. Been in business 40 years. But the bulk of their work is on Chevy engines. There's a place called R&R machine in Huntsville, Alabama that knows Mopars and the tricks of the trade with them. I might try using them. If I lived closer I'd have Dan Dvorak do all of my machine work.
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Yeah.....I wouldn't. lol
 
I have ordered a one piece seal from Fast Fish. Hasn't arrived yet, but Jeff Guenther was very helpful.
 
Seal arrived today. Looks good & similar to one piece seals I have used in Pontiac engines, zero problems.
 
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