I use Mobil1 synthetic 15w50. This particular weight includes 1500ppm of zinc to protect flat tappets. It is specifically designed for older flat tappet engines, not for modern engines with cats. I use it rather than Brad Penn or other specialty oil because it's easy to find at local auto parts stores.

 

You dont say how many miles on the break in. Complete engine or just cam? I would not use synthetic for at least 3000 miles. Regular dino oil is just fine. Let the rings and lifters do their mating thing. You dont need the slippery stuff yet. Or ever, but let me duck and run for cover now!

 

Bargain 10-30w.

 

Oh no here we go. Again.

 

Amsoil ZRod oil and an Amsoil filter

 

Lmao

 

Run whatever you feel comfortable with. People on here will tell you to run everything from Brad Penn to Royal purple. I ran regular Valvoline with a ZDP additive for awhile AND DID JUST FINE did not use high dollar oil at all. I run Kendal GT 10- 40 now, does just fine.

 

Run a name brand oil with a good filter...and change it as required.......

 

That's what I have been using in my 340

 

I am using john deere 15w40 motor oil on my fresh 318.

I think any oil that is used on turbo diesel stuff is good to go. I just have extra Deere oil because I have 2 of them.

and in here oils have even less zzdp stuff than in usa

 

anything you want. as long as its no less than 1200ppm phosphorous/zinc content life should be hunky dory. if it is less, add some lucas zinc additive. good thing to remember, lucas claims their 16oz bottle of break in additive mixed with 5qts of API SN oil will get you approx. 5200 ppm zinc/phos. thats entirely overkill after initial break in. with that being said, almost all API SN oils are closer to the 600ppm and SM is closer to 800ppm. most API CJ-4 diesel spec oils are 900-1200 on a good day. anyway, lets say the SN oil (in any quantity really, the approx 600ppm doesnt change with volume) is taken from the equation, that leaves about 4600 ppm in lucas' 16 oz bottle. 4600/16= 287.5. so with the approx 600ppm base, youre shooting for 600-800ppm more. 800/287.5= 2.78. so youd need 2 3/4ish oz. or, 600/287.5= 2.08. so about 2oz. of break in additive. not the full 16 like lucas claims "for ultimate protection in every oil change" too much zinc/phos in a DD is bad news too. racing, sure, but a daily....ehhh not so much. lookup camshaft spalling. thats what happens with too much zinc and phos. so be smart about it. and if im wrong someone please chime in. ive done this with a built to the nuts 327 chev and a moderately built AMC 401 and havent had a problem yet.

 

whats wrong with the rotella........as one guy said to me ...... the bottle is not fancy enough.

 

I run rotella and mobal delvac 15-40 in mine,rotella has more zinc

 

What camshaft are you running?

 

I know acouple guys here that run Rotella and a Wix or Napa gold. You can get it at wal mart and just keep it changed.

 

Even the diesel motor oils are now "LE" (low emissions) and their ZDDP levels have dropped.

I use 15-40 Delvac in everything, makes my life simpler.

If you really want to go down that rabbit hole: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

 

Why get cheap and lazy now?After all the money and time you put in your carsops:With flat tappet cams losing a lobe may not show up for weeks.

 

I run Mobil 1 from day one, hell I use it for assembly lube !!!